I was still trying to do EVERYTHING before we left.  Not possible.  But I did want to learn a little more about the Malay culture so it was off to the Malay Heritage Centre.  www.malayheritage.org.sg  The Centre turned out to be just one street away from Arab Street where I had been twice before; once with Lang and once with Randal.  I ate lunch in the same place all three times. 

Singapore Zam Zam on North Bridge Rd. Halal Muslim food.

I sat at a table on the other side of the glass window.  These two men are making roti.  I had the lamb roti for the third time.  You can see the window of the mosque across the street reflected in the glass.

Gigantic roti cooked on a huge round griddle.

I could only eat about one third of this monster roti.  It was hot and filled with ground lamb and very good.  They also served me cucumber with catsup and spicy dipping sauce.  I washed it down with a can of Coke Zero.  Total cost 4 Sing $ about $2.60 US. 

I had a front row seat too, to watch the sidewalk show go by.  I also watched as one of the Zam Zam workers called to passers-by to come in for lunch.  Many did just that. You can see him standing there in the long white shirt waiting to nab folks as they walk by.  That’s why I ate here the first time; they come out and welcome you in.  I was with Lang.  When Randal and I were there it was a Sunday and the place was packed with families during lunch time.  We had just spent all morning, from 7:30 am until 12:30 pm visiting Singapore Immigration (very frustrating interaction with them each time we had to renew our VISA) and then making a bus trip to Johor Bahru, Malaysia and back in the game called “get more days on your VISA to remain in Singapore.”  Long story.  Mostly happy ending.  Anyway we were starving when we got to Zam Zam which was a few blocks from the Singapore bus terminal.  We had 1 lamb roti, one order of fried rice and 3 Coke Zero between us. Because the restaurant in Halal they don’t serve beer which probably would taste wonderful with a lamb roti.  We were Very full.

“Masjid Sultan at Muscat Street in Kampong Glam begun in 1924 and completed in 1928.  This area of Singapore was reserved for the Malay and other Muslim people by Sir Stamford Raffles the “founder” of Singapore.  I just love the term Glam. The area’s name is derived from two Malay words, Kampong, meaning “village” or “settlement”, and Glam (or Gelam) referring to a variety of eucalyptus.”  from Wikipedia.  My photo.

Arab Street where you can buy bolts of cloth and Persian Rugs.  Randal and I saw some beautiful rugs and hope to actually buy some when we get to Turkey one day.

Cloth for traditional Muslim dress.

School kids and their teacher were also visiting the area. 

A Malay sailing vessel at the Heritage Centre.  And I can get scared on DoraMac.  Imagine crossing the ocean in this. 

Traditional Minangkabau Palace.  West Sumatra Indonesia.  The Malays have ties to Indonesia though I still don’t truly understand much about who they really are.  Looks like something from “The King and I.”

Next email, inside the museum and batik painting. 

While I was at the Malay Heritage Centre I was lucky to catch a batik demonstration or part of a workshop; I’m not sure which. 

From the Malay Heritage Centre website

Batik

Of Javanese origins, this technique has found its popularity in Singapore , especially at the Malay Heritage Centre. The term comes from an old Javanese word which means “ to dot ”. Since the 12 th century, this basic concept of using wax and dye has been really popular with Singaporean locals, as well as foreign visitors.

Canting

The use of Canting and wax creates a resist method on the fabric, when it is drawn free-hand on cotton or silk. These smooth lines prevent the dye from penetrating the other areas of the piece. Some other techniques used are:

Cracking Method

This method involves the brushing of wax onto a piece of cloth/silk. When it is dry, it is then crushed and soaked in dye, hence allowing dye to penetrate into the cracked lines. In olden days, only darker coloured dyes are used at this stage. After drying, a second layer of cracking wax is applied to the coloured piece and then painted once more. This effect allows for greater exploration of colours and design.

Absorption Method

This method involves the use of materials like tissues, rock, salt, etc. For example, when tissues are used, it will be spread unevenly on the Batik piece and water is then added to the different parts of the piece. Next, when dye is added or dotted, it will seep into the wrinkles of the tissue, creating a jagged effect. This effect allows for greater exploration of colours, design and imagination.

The Malay Heritage Centre offers workshops in Batik and Pottery.  I don’t know if this woman was a student at a workshop or an assistant since she was the only one other than the teacher doing the batik.  I asked her a question, but was told by the teacher that the woman spoke little English.  The teacher reminded me of the actor Pat Morita from the Karate Kid.  When I said I was from the US, he asked if I were from Key West.  I think I’ll take that as a compliment.  He walked over to help her before I could ask, “why Key West?”

Teacher shows student.  I should have asked more questions but I didn’t want to interrupt.  I found the information below on the web and I’m guessing it explains the process the were doing.

‘False batik’ or ‘faux batik’ is a term that silk painters use for getting the traditional look of batik. You can paint layers of dyes starting with the lightest progressing through to the darkest colour and painting over the complete piece of silk after each waxing instead of dipping in the dye. Then you can crumple up the batik and paint over the last dye which will seep into the cracks and form the crackle effect one sometimes associates with batik. Unfortunately it is a term that batik artists do not refer to. A lot of them do batik in this way but do not call it faux batik. There are many ways of applying the wax and the dyes. But in this method you do not dip the fabric in dye like in traditional batik.  http://www.batikguild.org.uk/questions.asp

The top of the batik.  The flowers are outlined in wax and the paint just flows over it.

The back side of the cloth.  I was told that real batik looks almost the same on both sides of the cloth to indicate the design was dyed into it and not printed on one side.

Paintings, shadow puppets and batik stamping tools

Instead of applying the wax with a small hand held tool, the molds are dipped into wax and pressed onto the cloth where the design has already been marked.  I saw a video of batik design at the Asian Civilization Museum.

Inspiring the next generation. 

I would have loved to have seen this created start to finish.  But partly I was in a rush to see and get back to the boat to start packing up for our trip to Sebana Cove tomorrow.  Wish I hadn’t waited to the last day to visit the Centre.  You might have noticed that I use the British spelling for words: centre, theatre, etc.  That was if you search for anything I’ve written about you’ll find it more easily.  And besides, “when in Rome..”