Budapest Misc

Porecka Reka

Anchoring for the night.

   This is the final Budapest email.  Now I can begin to research Belgrade for the emails I’ll send.  In between I’ve have two emails about Novi Sad, Serbia, our stop just before Belgrade.

Ru

Margaret Island

Budapest’s Margaret Island was originally known as Rabbits Island.  (Lots of rabbits and hunting of rabbits)  In the Middle Ages, it was home to a number of religious cloisters, the remains of which can still be seen today. At the time it was only accessible by boat.

     By the beginning of the 1800s, when it was known as Palatinus, this 2.5 kilometer-long (1.4 mile) island was embraced by members of the royal family, who built a summer residence here and took it upon themselves to turn it into an ornate garden. The island opened to the public in 1869 and soon became a health resort attracting visitors taking advantage of its therapeutic springs.

     Today, the five-hundred-meter-wide (550 yard) island covers about 92 hectares (227 acres) and is linked to the mainland by two bridges: the Margaret Bridge to the south and the Árpád Bridge in the north. The island is popular for its recreational attractions but there are also several historical sights on Margitsziget.

http://www.aviewoncities.com/budapest/margaretisland.htm

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Peddle vehicles can be rented by all ages. These young girls had driven themselves into a rut and Randal had to drag it out for them so they could get going again.  Looks like great fun to me!

No, we didn’t rent one….

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No free public toilets and restaurants charge unless you’re a customer.

180 HUF (Hungarian Forint) = $.7853 which I thought was way too much until I did the math.  But 300 HUF to use the stinky WC in the restaurant near the St Mathias Church was way too much.

300 HUF = $1.30

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Too many zeroes in the paper money

.0043 cents = 1 Hungarian Forint so that 1,000 HUF bill = $4.30   Randal carried a calculator which made things lots easier when figuring the bill.  Currency different by ½ or 1/3rd  or ¼ is lots easier for me than this was for some reason.

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Margaret Island statue

Who is this man?  I found nothing even in Hungarian to give me a clue. I asked a young man on a bike who asked his friend who asked someone else and the answer from the third man was “maybe an author.” Maybe one of my super sleuth library pals can tell me; the armless statue on Margaret Island. 

     The island does have a Promenade of Hungarian Artists.

“Around the chapel runs the Promenade of Hungarian Artists (Művészsétány) with busts of the country’s prominent poets, writers and other artists. The tranquil surroundings with groves, stately trees, flowers are ideal for leisurely walks. János Arany (1817-1882) the great Hungarian poet wrote his most beautiful poems under the mighty trees on Margaret Islands.”

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Trains, buses/cars/ bikes/pedestrians each had their own space over the Margit Hid (Bridge)

Margaret Bridge is in two sections, the first connecting the Buda Ring with the southern tip of Margaret Island, and the second providing a link with the Outer Ring. Constructed in 1876, it’s the second oldest bridge over the Danube, and although destroyed during the WWII it was rebuilt in 1948.

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Soviet style apartments.  We saw some similarly painted buildings in Komarno though I don’t think they had images on them.

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Did these passengers choose their seats by the images painted on the side of the tour bus?

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http://budapestmarkethall.com/

Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market Hall (officially called ‘Központi Vásárcsarnok’ in Hungarian) is the largest indoor market in Budapest. Among other things, on the ground floor you’ll find a large selection of sausages, meats, cheeses, fruits and vegetables. On the second floor, there are food stands and plenty of vendors selling handicrafts, clothing, embroidery, chessboards and other souvenirs. Paprika and Tokaji are also sold here. In the basement, there is a fish market, a small Asian grocery store, a supermarket, and a small drugstore. While focusing on Hungarian products, on International Gastro Days (held on Fridays and Saturdays), the Central Market Hall also features the food and cuisine of a foreign country.

The building also has some architectural significance. The metal roof structure is still the original, and the roof is covered with decorative Zsolnay tiles. There are four other markets like this in Budapest, which were all built in the same style (these are in Klauzál tér, Rákóczi tér, Hold utca and Hunyadi tér). An interesting fact is that all five buildings opened on the same day, on February 15th 1897.

Because of its location and size the market hall on Fővám tér was chosen to be the ‘central’ market hall by the city as opposed to the other markets ranked as ‘district’ markets. When it opened ships sailed right into the building using special docks. The old customs house across from the building is now part of the Corvinus University. Today, the Central Market Hall remains a wonderful food market and a must-see, even if you don’t buy anything. It’s often visited by celebrities and foreign dignitaries.

http://visitbudapest.travel/

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Fakanal Restaurant   http://www.fakanaletterem.hu/en/  was upstairs in the Market Hall and easier to negotiate than the food vendors in the upstairs walkways.

Some offerings on the menu:

Rich goulash soup – small/big 890 HUF/1250 HUF

Fish soup – on every Thursday – small/big 890 HUF/1250 HUF

Main dish  

Veal stew 2400 HUF

Stuffed cabbage – accord to the season 1700 HUF

Stuffed paprika – accord to the season 1700 HUF

Roasted leg of goose 2400 HUF  is what I had and it was wonderful for about $10

Knuckle of pork 2900 HUF

Giant Vienna scallop 2900 HUF

Dessert  

Home-made strudel 530 HUF

There are lots of ways to eat more cheaply but we were in the Market Hall and hungry so gave this place a try. 

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St. Gillert Spa and Swimming Pool  www.gellertfurdo.hu

We ducked into the building to get out of the approaching downpour.

“Built in the secessionist style, the St. Gellert Spa and Hotel opened to the public in 1918.  In later years a surf-bath and a bubble bath were added.  Put into service in 1927, the original surf machine, which generates the artificial waves, is still in operation.  ….  Almost the entire range of medical services are available in the spa which has a day-patient hospital and inhalatorium.  Lava stone massage, spa pedicure, chocolate treatment and a so called Cleopatra spa and an herbal spa are also available.”

     Social security-supported medical treatments for eligible persons:

Bathing in medicinal water pools and tubs, mud-packs, sub-aquean traction, bathing in carbonated water, medical massage treatments, underwater jet massage and complex balneological care. 

     Medically recommended for: Degenerative diseases of the joints; certain diseases of the spine;chronic and semi-chronic inflammation of the joints; intervertebral disc diseases; intercoastal neuralgia; aortic stenosis; circulatory diseases;  and in the inhalatorium treatment of asthmatic disorders and chronic bronchitis.  (Once upon a time Randal and I thought bike riding cured all of these things.)

      Most of the baths open today were established by the Turks, examples of which, the Rudas and the Kiraly Baths, are still in operation after 500 years.  At that period in history, our city was called the Mecca of Rheumatics due to the salutary effects of its thermal waters.  ….  Unmatched even on a world scale, the daily delivery of 70 million litres of 21-78 C thermal waters gushing out of the 123 natural hot springs and drilled wells means that Budapest can proudly proclaim itself as the capital city of healing and thermal waters.”  Budapest : The City of Spas booklet

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A peek into one of the pools.  Orsi, our walking tour guide, told us that this particular spa was probably the most expensive, but not necessarily the best…  It just depended on what one was looking for in the experience.

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Located on the Pest side, it was a tram, train and then long walk to get to the City Park.

“In winter the lake transforms in to the largest artificial ice rink in Europe, opened in 1870.  In summer, there are boats for hire.” Budapest City Walks map

On the right side of the lake were restaurants and the left side

    “The biggest museum of agriculture in Europe can be found in the Castle of Vajdahunyad on the Széchenyi-island in Városliget, Budapest in outstanding building. Its designer Ignác Alpár merged different architectural styles, made use of different elements, details of well-known buildings of historical Hungary. Citizens of Budapest named this group of buildings "Vajdahunyad castle" on the basis of the part of palace to be seen from the lake. The building was erected originally for the Millennial Exhibition, and it has been used to host the museum of agriculture starting in 1897. Entering the main entrance we proceed through the marble arched court up to the first floor via marble staircase. You can cast a glance over the inside of the building while visiting the exhibitions. Beautifully painted walls, enormous crystal chandelliers, carved pillars, stained windows can also be seen.”

http://www.budapest.com/

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Fruit soup 🙂

It tasted like unsweetened strawberries had been frozen and then blended into sherbet consistency.  A scoop of vanilla ice cream and a few squirts of whipped cream were floating on top.  It was great!

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“Vajdahunyad Castle was built between I896 and 1908; its various parts illustrate the different styles of Hungarian architecture.  It was designed by Ignác Alpár, and derived its name from the wing facing the lake, which is an imitation of the Castle of Vajdahunyad in Transylvania, the family castle of János Hunyadi, the hero of the Turkish wars, which was built in its present form in the fifteenth century (today Hunedoara, Rumania). A Gothic gate leads to the courtyard. On the opposite side, the outstanding structure among the Gothic group of buildings is the copy of the castle-tower of Segesvár in Transylvania (now Sighisoarã, Rumania). Inside there is a Gothic court- yard with some early Renaissance elements.

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To the left are Romanesque buildings; the chapel uses motifs of the famous thirteenth-century Benedictine abbey at Ják in Western Hungary, the most beautiful surviving relic of Romanesque architecture in the country. The chapel is flanked by a pseudo-medieval ambulatory with a corner turret. The buildings facing the lake are imitations of a castle-wall and a feudal castle.

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The first “Anonymous.”

Rubbing the pen in his right hand  is supposed to bring luck, but I opted to hold the book instead.  It took forever to get a turn to do that and some else was on the pen side while Randal took this photo.

“The largest façade facing the courtyard was built in Baroque style. Opposite is the statue of Anonymus, his face hidden in his monk’s hood symbolising the fact that the identity of the thirteenth-century chronicler is unknown-even today we do not know much more about him than that he worked at the royal court. His work "Gesta Hungarorum", written in Latin and based on earlier chronicles now lost, contains the Hunnish-Hungarian cycle of legends as well as the history of the Magyar Conquest and of the first kings of the House of Árpád. (The statue is the work of Miklós Ligeti,1903.)

http://www.fsz.bme.hu/hungary/budapest/bptour/bppark00.htm

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There were a few women standing in certain spots holding this lacework.  Not an easy job at all.  We’ve pretty much stopped collecting anything to bring home. 

 

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Too bad this was just for kids!

The small boy in the blue shirt had just gone flying off too quickly for me to take a photo of him upside down. 

Andrassy Avenue Walk

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Each of the 4 corners meeting here had huge buildings and a statue

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I can only imagine this conversation….

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One way to see Budapest www.historylimousine.com  : we walked or took the trams/buses/trains and the free walking tours.  Free tours aren’t really free, you tip at the end but you get to decide how much the tour was worth. 

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Frence Liszt Memorial Museum and Research Center   http://www.lisztmuseum.hu/en/

      “The Liszt Ferenc Memorial Museum and Research Centre was opened in September, 1986 in the building of the Old Academy of Music (H-1064 Budapest, Vörösmarty utca 35). This building was used from late 1875 until mid-1907 for music teaching of the Academy of Music: it was the 2nd site of the institution which had been inaugurated in 1875 (the first building on Hal-tér/Fisch-Platz has been demolished; its memory is preserved only by photos of the time). After opening the new palace at Liszt Ferenc tér (12 May 1907), the building in Vörösmarty utca was used by several other institutions (among others a music school, a coffee shop, political and social associations, a foreign trade company), until the Ministry for Culture and Education bought it in 1980 and put it at the disposal of the Academy of Music.

     Liszt, the founding president and professor of the Academy who did not accept any salary for his teaching, got a service aparment in the building of the Old Academy of Music, of which the main front looked on Andrássy út (once called Sugár-út/Radialstrasse) while the entrance was in Vörösmarty utca. This apartment on the 1st floor in which Liszt lived from January 1881 until 1886, the year of his death whenever he stayed in Budapest, is today a memorial museum, furnished by his instruments, furniture, library and memorabilia. The entrance room of the apartment, such as Liszts study-and-bedroom and drawing room is awaiting visitors with a permanent exhibition, while the one-time dining room and the foyer at the ground-floor is used for temporary (thematic) Liszt-exhibitions. In the concert hall near Liszts apartment, the museum arranges Saturday matinée concerts for its visitors.”

http://www.lisztmuseum.hu/en/aboutus/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpOtuoHL45Y Liebestraum – Love Dream

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTBuNkUMW-I  Hungarian Rhapsody No. 2 – HD – Franz Liszt (the most famous of his works!)

Hungarian Rhapsody No. 2 in popular culture : Mickey Mouse, Bugs Bunny, Tom and Jerry, and Who Framed Roger Rabbit are some cartoons and films that used Rhapsody No. 2

http://listenclassicalmusic.blogspot.com/

Wiking Marina Budapest Pad Arpad Danube bridge

From DoraMac you walked up the ramp to land where the office and boat repair buildings were located.  It was a locked area needing a key for exit and entry.  The next complex looked like a derelict movie lot to me.  There was a guard house with a barrier for cars; we just waved to the men each time we left and returned.  The staff were very helpful and we even managed wifi on the boat which earned the staff a famous “Randal pecan pie.”

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The ramp down to our dock…which was the only place deep enough and where we could fit.

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DoraMac at dusk

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Pecan Pie

Vukovar 2

Porecka Reka

Anchoring for the night.

The Porečka reka is a river in eastern Serbia, a 50 km-long right tributary to the Danube in the Đerdap gorge. It originates from two headstreams, the Šaška and the Crnajka rivers, which meet at the village of Miloševa Kula. Wikipedia

   This is the first time we’re anchoring during this river trip.  Usually there’s someplace to tie up, but, apparently the further east we go, the less developed boat services.  So we’ll see.  Amazingly Rick’s super antenna has tracked down some wifi.  Last night in the town of Smederevo we had no wifi.  We were blasted with disco music from evening to dawn to make up for the wifi lack.  As we had to cover 130 kilometers today, 5 am was wake up time and we were off by 5:15.  We had hours of rain and thunder and lightning but then it cleared and tonight is bright and sunny.  Rain is forecasted for the next 7 days; but up until now we’ve had great weather so one really can’t complain. 

   This is Vukovar part 2.  The more I read about the breakup of Yugoslavia and the conflicts that followed the less I think I know.  Rather than pass along incorrect information, I let you read and try to understand yourselves.

Ru

http://www.tzvsz.hr/en/  tourist site

“The port of Vukovar serves as a gateway for excursions into Croatia’s fertile rural region west of the Danube.  Visible from the river, the bullet-ridden water tower makes a sad landmark.  The capital of the Srijem region, with its churches, patrician houses and arcaded passages near the baroque castle of the counts of Eltz, was once regarded as a jewel of urban baroque architecture.  In 1991, it fell victim to the civil war in former Yugoslavia.  After Serbian-occupied eastern Slavonia was restored to Croatia in 1998, reconstruction began in earnest.  Restored historical edifices as well as modern buildings now offer hope for a renaissance of the most important  Croatian port town on the Danube.”  JPM Danube Guide

The Breakup of Yugoslavia, 1990–1992 Office of the Historian    https://history.state.gov/milestones/1989-1992/breakup-yugoslavia  explains far better than I could why the battles took place between Croatia and Serbia while both were part of Yugoslavia. 

23 June 2011

Croatia Vukovar war: Overcoming a legacy of war  By Allan Little

Three months of siege and bombardment by Serb forces in 1991 all but reduced the town to rubble – and destroyed a once happy, common life lived by Serbs, Croats and more than 20 other registered national minorities alike.  Today the ethnic groups walk the same streets but they do so separately.

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-13887103

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Symbol of the conflict

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   “The Vukovar water tower in the eastern Croatian city of Vukovar is one of the most famous symbols  in Croatia of the suffering of the city and the county in the Battle of Vukovar and the Croatian War of Independence, when the water tower and the city itself were largely destroyed by the Serb forces.  Now, for the first time, photographs from inside the tower have been published. Until the war, the top of the tower was home to a restaurant with a view over Vukovar, Dunav and surrounding vineyards. During the Serbian attack on Vukovar, the water tower, which was built-in the 1960′s, was one of the most frequent targets of enemy artillery. It was hit more than 600 times during the siege.

The water tower will not be renovated but will be left in its current state to serve as a reminder of the suffering the city endured.  http://www.croatiaweek.com/

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Croatia on one side of the Danube and Serbia on the other.   You can see the remains of the water tower restaurant in Vukovar taken the morning we left as we continue on down the Danube towards Novi Sad in Serbia.

http://www.croatia.org/  tells not only about the conflict, but shows photos of the destruction, talks about the massacre and the new rebuilt Vukovar.  It even shows some photos of the public library.  This is obviously from the Croatian point of view.

You can’t help but to think about the bombing of and attack on Vukovar by Serbia because so many buildings bear the scars of the conflict.  Among the rebuilt homes and business are the ruins of buildings, the open spaces where buildings once stood.  We also ruins in Belgrade from the NATO bombing

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The steeple on the church of Church of Sts. Philip and James was totally destroyed during the bombing.

“…the Franciscan friary with the Church of Sts. Philip and James and the High School. The construction of the friary and the church started on 24 June 1723 and continued throughout the 18th century. Until the devastation caused by the war, which did not spare the rich Franciscan heritage, including the old friary library with its 17000 volumes, the friary with the Church of Sts. Philip and James was the oldest preserved Baroque monument and the oldest building in Vukovar.  The church and the friary are protected cultural monuments. The Vukovar High School was founded in 1891.”

http://www.tzvsz.hr/

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Vukovar High School founded in 1891

“Marko Marulić,  (born August 18, 1450, Split, Dalmatia [now in Croatia]—died January 6, 1524, Split), Croatian moral philosopher and poet whose vernacular verse marked the beginnings of a distinctive Croatian literature.

The scion of a noble family, Marulić studied classical languages and literature and philosophy at Padua [Italy] before returning to his native Split and a life of public service, scholarship, and writing. At age 60 he withdrew to a Franciscan monastery on the island of Šolta, but he returned to Split, disillusioned by the experience, two years later.

Marulić’s didactic moral works were written in Latin and translated into many European languages. They stressed practical Christianity and reflected an appreciation of Stoic thought. His most important vernacular poem was Istoria sfete udovice Judit u versih harvacchi slozena (written 1501 and published in 1521; “The History of the Holy Widow Judith Composed in Croatian Verses”). The first printed Croatian literary work, Judita is an epic in six cantos in which Marulić sought by the example of a Hebrew heroine to encourage his people in their struggles against the Turks. Elevating as it does vernacular Croatian to the status of a literary language and uniting Marulić’s classical and Italian literary education with Croatian poetic traditions, this work proved a springboard for the nascent Croatian literature.”

http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/367199/Marko-Marulic

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This building is on the main road not far from the water tower.

“Vukovar nocturne

Vukovar nocturne is a faithful reflection of what was experienced. It is a story of love and courage, strength and pain, human dignity and victory of life. The story of a tragedy of a nation, on victims, heroes, defiance and pride was passed on to Vukovar nocturne which joins all places in town that bear the remembrance of the Homeland war.”

http://www.tzvsz.hr/

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Now a photographer’s studio;  but what is its history and what once stood near it?

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The elderly home owner wouldn’t let me take her photo but was happy to have to let me photograph her cats and garden.  They reminded me of my pal Sheila’s first cats Buffy and Lori. 

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Sunflowers grew in gardens and empty lots

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Our lunch stop during a Saturday afternoon walk.

     The plan was to walk to the park/cemetery and stop for lunch on the way back.  Thomas had recommended this café as it was midway.   But it was really hot by 11:30 so when we got here we just stopped for a cold drink and early lunch.  After lunch Randal and Mary voted to return to town rather than continue on to the cemetery.  It would have been almost 7 miles for the entire walk with little shade on the route so not the best day for a long hike. 

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Across from the restaurant was a huge field of sunflowers stretching out of the photo on both sides.  Behind the fields looked to be a development of new homes with more under construction.

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We decided to visit the Eltz Castle but by the time we arrived it had closed for the day.  Saturday was an “early closing” day in town.

“The City Museum Vukovar was founded in 1946 and the first permanent exhibition was opened in 1948…. During the Croatian War of Independence in 1991 the complex of the Eltz Castle suffered heavy devastation and continued its activities as the Museum in exile till returning to the devastated Eltz Castle, in which the reconstruction process began in 2005.  The construction works on the complex were finished in November 2011.

Eltz – a real person.

“10 Apr 2006  Jakob Eltz, who died on February 10 aged 84, represented a link between modern Europe and the Habsburg Empire; in the 1990s he played an important part in the establishment of Croatia as an independent democratic state. “

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/  is the obit for Jakob Eltz

Vukovar Town Stork

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I first saw stork nests in Turkey and was amazed by them.  This nest was in the town center.  Apparently storks return to the same next year after year.  The story below isn’t about Vukovar, but it is a lovely story about storks in a different Croatian town.

Mar 24, 2014

A local called Stjepan Vokic has promised to keep her safe, and has served as her guardian for the last two decades.  Every year, he would anxiously expect Klepetan’s return, hoping that the bird succeed in avoiding the perils of such a long trip.

Today at 5:00 a.m. Klepetan returned for the twelfth time in a row. The date corresponds with the last year’s arrival. Hungry and tired, but with much love in his eyes, he greeted the welcoming Malena. This love game usually means another round of chicks is to be expected later in the year. With Stjepan’s help, the pair raised over 40 small birds so far.

http://www.likecroatia.com/news-tips/klepetan-back-needs-help/

Croatian storks Rodan and Malena reunited after 8,000 mile winter flight  Tuesday 30 Mar 2010

http://metro.co.uk/  talks about the 5th year in 2010

Though storks form monogamous pairs for the duration of the breeding season, they do not migrate or over-winter together. If the same pair reforms in successive years it is largely due to their strong attachment to their nest site.

The legend that the European White Stork brings babies is believed to have originated in northern Germany, perhaps because storks arrive on their breeding grounds nine months after midsummer. Northern Europeans of Teutonic ancestry encouraged storks to nest on their homes hoping they would bring fertility and prosperity. This tradition of welcome and protection did not exist in the portions of France where the White Stork disappeared first.

http://nationalzoo.si.edu/

The oldest recorded lifespan in the wild is 25 years, captive individuals may live up to 48 years. Mortality after the second year of life has been estimated at 21%, before 2 years of age it may be 30% or higher.  (Cramp, et al., 1977)  http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/accounts/Ciconia_ciconia/