Early morning fog in Deggendorf : we got out while the getting was, if not good, at least possible. It certainly wasn’t going to improve any the next few days.    There were places on the river where we just squeaked by, and places along the way where we had to pass barges going up river and there was just enough water depth for both boats in the narrow channel.  Then the channel deepened and we were home free.

Our overnight spot was Heining at a the Yacht Club.  From there we caught a bus to Passau where we ate lunch and then explored for several hours.  Americans had invaded by way of all the huge cruise ships that lined the public dock.  Funny enough, as we’ve been in Germany so long, I felt like a “local” looking at all the “tourists.”

Passau is charming with lots of light and shadows which I tried to capture. 

“The setting of the Old Town” has picturesque squares, soaring towers, romantic lanes and enchanting promenades.”  Passau Tourist Map

On the German side of the border, Passau (km 2227 on the Danube) is a solid old bishopric that has always enjoyed the good life, celebrating its religious festivities with plenty of music, beer for the men and hot chocolate for the ladies.  Historically prospering from trade in wine, wheat and salt,  it is an inviting city, from the bulbous onion domes and graceful arches of its baroque monuments to the rounded promontories separating the waterways.”  JPM Guides  The Danube 

An “arts and crafts” area surrounded the Dom plaza.

The map calls this area “art alley” for all the shops selling local crafts.

Steep alleys led down to the river

A mime got my coin because you just don’t see many women street performers.

Some young men who sounded pretty good

A young girl balancing on a modern “thinker.” 

A statue of poet and writer Emerenze Meier whose work was published in Passau.  For economic reasons she emigrated to Chicago with her parents.  Her life was not happy…

If Goethe had to prepare supper, salt the dumplings;

If Schiller had had to wash the clothes,

If Heine had had to mend what he had torn, to clean the rooms, kill the bugs-

Oh, the menfolk, none of them would have become great poets.

Emerenz Meier

http://www..born-in-schiefweg.de/en/emerenz-meier.html  is the website for the Emerenze Meier Society and Museum. 

St Steven’s Cathedral and Church Organ

To the south, the town’s core stands on the ridge of land between the Danube and Inn Rivers.  Towering over it is the cathedral of St Stephan, with its onion domes, the flamboyant gothic chancel and baroque interior.”  JPM Guides The Danube.

We went in to see the organ…

According to the Passau Tourist map info, St. Stephan’s Organ is the largest cathedral organ in the world with 17,974 pipes, 233 stops, and 4 carillons.  We certainly didn’t see anywhere near that many pipes.

“Until the 1990’s, the Passau Domorgan was the largest church organ in the world. Presently it is "only" the largest Domorgan (and third largest church organ) of the World.” http://mypipeorganhobby.blogspot.co.at/  where you can hear the organ being played.

Asher and Sharon, you know I had to see this for you!

St Paul’s Church was a contrast of white walls and dark decorative sculptures.  It is supposedly the oldest parish church in Passau with dates of 1050 and 1678 connected to it. Actually it looked and smelled as if it had just been repainted.

Art along the “shopping street.”

The shop on the left had beautiful hand-made paper and journals.