We left Constanta 7:55 pm and arrived in Varna at 9:00 am.  My watches were from 10pm until midnight and then from 6 am until 8 am so I got to see the sun rise.  No doubt which direction is East.

The marina shared the public dock so we were surrounded with “pirate touring frigates”  playing American pop music and tiny sailboats with tiny children learning to sail.

Learning to sail when you’re too tiny to fear death is a good time.  The boy in the yellow sailboat looked  no older than 5 or 6.  He was followed about by a woman in a motor-dinghy teaching him “the ropes.”

I did think a few of the kids were going to crash into us, but they all did just great.

Greenpeace Rainbow Warrior was in port for maintenance

Carling Cherry Cider;  a good alternative to wine or beer!

“Looking for refreshment of a different flavour? We’ve expanded our Cider range to include new Carling British Cider Cherry.

Like our core Carling British Cider, Cherry is a blend as delicious and refreshing as our No. 1 lager, featuring a refreshingly crisp taste with just a hint of sweetness. And, of course, a beautiful cherry flavour.”  http://www.carling.com/products/cherry-cider/

I actually chose the Carling because I’ll remember the Carling brewery near Boston on the “shores of Lake Cochituate,” which was always mentioned in their commercials.  I do think the Carlings are related but I can’t prove it just now. 

“Hey Mabel, Black Label!   In 1956, Carling began brewing in a brand new state-of-the-art brewery in Natick,which was located in suburban Boston. This was also the first new brewery in over 40 years for the New England area.The brewery sat on 32 acres of land and overlooked Lake Cochituate. Natick, "America’s Most Modern Brewery", had the following brewing.” http://heymabelblacklabel.com/id45.htm

Dutch/Swedish Antonia and “Harry” came aboard.  We’d met them several stops previously but finally had time to get together.  They have two great little dogs who now just wag their tails at me rather than barking a few woofs. 

Town was a schlep…. But worth it.  This time we walked over to the beach side and then through the park.

A love letter along the quay.

Day-beds rather than beach chairs

Town was a mix of older and Soviet and new and neighborhoods…

The History of Varna Museum and the Church across the street.   There wasn’t time to go the first day we arrived and we never made it back but it sounds interesting.

History of Varna Museum

“Established in 1969, this history museum is housed in a building that has had several lives. Originally the Belgian consulate, the same building was later a hotel and then a prison before the museum opened on the site. Three exhibitions are spread across the three floors with a total display space of 600 square meters. Here you can learn all about Varna’s economic, industrial, cultural, educational and touristic development from 1878 to 1939.” http://www.gpsmycity.com/tours/museum-walking-tour-in-varna-3733.html

http://12121.hostinguk.com/varna_history_museum.htm  tells about the exhibits.

The restaurant next door..

Real chicken noodle soup and grilled garlic flatbread.  Yum!!!

Some new mixed with the old in the great neighborhood between the marina and center city.

People watching is always fun

This young woman was head to toe American flag so Randal gave her one of our American flag bandanas to complete the outfit. 

Opera Varna building

http://www.operavarna.bg/monthly_progall_a.php

Poster in the lobby for the Opera Nabucco so, of course, I had to investigate the Jewish star.

нАбуко =  Nabucco

(That was a task guessing the letters to use on the Google translate Bulgarian Typewriter.)

“On its surface, Nabucco is about the epic struggle of Zaccaria and the Jews suppressed by Babylon’s King Nebuchadnezzar and his vengeful daughter, Abigaille. But to Italians fighting for their freedom from Austria, Verdi’s first great opera was an inspiring call to arms.”

http://www.operaphila.org/production/nabucco

I can see this translating to the Bulgarians fighting to free themselves from Comminism.

   “Varna is the largest Bulgarian port and resort city on the Black Sea Coast. Once the ancient Greek colony of Odessos, it is the center of operatic activity in north-eastern Bulgaria. The first performance of opera scenes date from the founding of a choir at St. Michael’s Church in 1893 and of the Gusla Music Society in 1899. In 1920, 1928, and 1930 attempts were made to organize a permanent theater; between 1926 and 1937 the first Bulgarian musical festivals began to be organized.

After the socialist revolution in 1944, Varna became the home of the Varnensko Lyato (Varna Summer), an international music festival. A symphony orchestra was founded in 1946, and the Varnenska Narodno Opera (Varna National Opera) in 1947, housed in the National Theater.

The first opera performance was Smetana’s The Bartered Bride. The repertory is predominantly Italian and German, with special emphasis on Mozart and modern European and Bulgarian music (especially that of Parashkev Hadjiev). Operas staged for the first time in Bulgaria include Cosi fan tutte, Britten’s Albert Herring and his version of The Beggar’s Opera, Il turco in Italia and Prokofiev’s Betrothal in a Monastery.

The regular season starts in September and ends in August, with between four and eight new productions a year. The theater, built by N. Laxarov in 1932 is a mainly classical style, holds about 600; it was renovated during the 1980’s and reopened with Die Zauberflote (1989).

http://www.ucis.pitt.edu/opera/OFB/misc/houses.htm#Varna

Women and men were in the plazas selling handicrafts.  It’s interesting to see what is common around the world such as woven slippers, wood carved products, and crocheted doilies.

  “In Bulgaria, when you enter someone’s house it is polite to remove your shoes which will be replaced with a pair of these hand made knitted or woven slippers. “

http://www.momchilovtsi.info/artsandcrafts.htm

Early morning and early evening light enhanced the architecture; even the crumbling buildings were charming in shadows.

Folk Art Museum   (Muzeul de Arta Populara)

Address: Blvd. Tomis 32

     “Some 16,000 exhibits from all ethnographic regions of Romania are on display here. Folk costumes, jewelry, interiors of traditional peasant homes and household items illustrate the traditional way of life in various parts of the country. On the ground floor, a valuable collection of icons painted on glass dates from the 18th and 19th centuries. Folk arts and crafts are available at the museum gift shop.”

http://romaniatourism.com/constanta.html

Sadly we visited no museums though I think both the folk art and the art museum would have been quite interesting.  Time just goes somehow and one chore can take all day.

Not in great shape to start with, a fierce rain storm played havoc with the streets and some of the buildings one night. 

The part of town that wasn’t “old town.” 

It was Sunday so not much activity.  We were looking for a Globul store to buy more internet time.

Many of the buildings had such interesting architectural details.

Ottoman influence perhaps.

Art deco?

I want a dog!

Just waiting….

I missed it; but a minute before a small boy had thrown a rock against the metal fence making lots of noise and sending him and his friend scurrying back across the street to disappear into their house.

A very popular beach was neighbor to the marina.

Everything that had come down for the passage had to go back up.

August 15^th Assumption and Navy Day

August 15^th was Assumption Day and Navy Day (Mary is the patron saint of mariners) and the Old Town harbor area near the marina was packed with people and a display of naval power. Even  Traian Băsescu, the President of Romania was supposed to have been there for opening ceremonies. 

“The feast day of the Assumption of Mary, or simply Assumption Day or St Mary’s Day, is one of the most important feasts in the Orthodox Christian calendar. Large crowds gather in processions and pilgrimages involving thousands of Romanians occur at Moisei in Maramureș, Nicula in Transylvania and Putna in Moldavia. St Mary is the patron saint of the Navy, so the holiday corresponds with the Day of the Romanian Naval Forces, also known as Navy Day. Events, such as demonstrative shows featuring navy ships, are held in port cities and often attract thousands of visitors on August 15.”

http://www.timeanddate.com/holidays/romania/st-mary-day

Romanian Cub Scouts handed out flyers of the day’s activities.

By the time we walked over there was not an inch of space along the water front and it was too hot to stand around listening to speeches in Romanian.  Official speeches in English aren’t all that entertaining most of the time either.  That’s when we set off for the chandlery and found the Synagogue.

Old sewing machines, mostly Singer, are used for displays everywhere in Europe.  Here it’s the entrance of a coffee shop where we stopped for our daily iced coffee.  (Yesterday it was cool enough here in Sozopol that we had hot coffee.)  I liked the painted light bulbs.

This woman, on her way to the huge Orthodox Cathedral, apologized for the condition of the town.  She believed that the economy was terrible and the government worse.  Rick and Mary told her they thought the town had much improved since there visit 3 years ago.  But we only see the tourist areas and not the real infrastructure.

St. Peter & Paul Orthodox Cathedral

     “Constructed in Greco-Roman style between 1883 and 1885, the church was severely damaged during WWII and was restored in 1951. The interior murals display a neo-Byzantine style combined with Romanian elements best observed in the iconostasis and pews, chandeliers and candlesticks (bronze and brass alloy), all designed by Ion Mincu and completed in Paris.”

http://romaniatourism.com/constanta.html

Services were being held so we didn’t go in.

Ruins of an early Christian center just next to the Orthodox Church. 

A statue by the harbor is a woman looking out to sea; coincidentally a squar-rigger was out in the harbor for Navy Day.

In New Bedford houses were built with “a widow’s walk.” 

   “Any trip through Cape Cod, Nantucket and other local coastal towns is a tour through the 19th century cultural landscape of New England — an architectural intersection between its British inheritance and the stylistic dictates of a New World.  Widow’s Walks are platforms nestled in the high gables of peaked roofs, though they vary in size, ornamentation and functionality depending on their place in history. Widow’s Walks first emerged from the vague mists of folklore; purportedly, they were observation decks for wives to survey the horizon for their husband’s return from sea.” – See more at: http://blog.sevenponds.com/

     “On 22 December 1989, Romania’s communist leader Nicolae Ceausescu was overthrown in a violent revolution and fled from the capital, Bucharest. Three days later, he and his wife Elena were executed by firing squad. It was the last of the popular uprisings against communist rule in eastern Europe that year.

Communism – the end of an era 

After the euphoria of Solidarity’s victory in free elections in Poland and the Velvet Revolution in Prague, this was different. The Romanian revolution was the last, and the bloodiest, in the whole region. It came to a head on Christmas Day, when the dictator and his wife were executed.”

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/574200.stm

Everyone who lived of lives in Chicago get in this photo!

The woman in the stripped dress moved to Chicago.  Her “superman” son was born there as was her granddaughter.  They were all visiting family still living in Romania.  Rick grew up in Chicago.  I only lived there for 6 months as a student teacher so I took the photo.

Thousands of people had walked to the waterfront for the morning festivities and now they were returning home.  We sat in a restaurant and watched the parade.

We’d still be sitting there now waiting to order if the man at the table nest to us hadn’t flagged down one of the overworked waitstaff and sent him to our table.  He and his family were on vacation in Constanta also.

Exchanging email addresses.

We’ve found in Eastern Europe American Flag images are really popular which wasn’t so surprising as most people were so pleased to learn we were Americans.  That felt really nice! 

Street Art

I couldn’t resist climbing onto this giant chair in front of the Art Museum.  I think I’ve already mentioned that my roommate Eileen did great “Edith Ann” immitations.  I really can’t resist.  This blue chair photo was taken in Westport, Canada duirng our 2011 visit to Charmaine and Linda.

Sculpture celebrating the 10 year anniversary of the December 1989 Revolution

She translated the sign but both of us agreed we weren’t so sure we understood the sculpture.

Jewish Constanta

There is a small chunk of the Great Synagogue of Constanta on DoraMac.  I didn’t take it; it was given to me as a gift. 

We were out looking for a chandlery Rick vaguely remembered from 3 years ago when I saw a street and building that I believed to be the remains of the Great Synagogue.  We walked over to C A Rosetti Street and found the building with a locked gate and barking dogs.  A man from the house next door saw us and asked if we would like to visit the building.  We said yes; he shushed the dogs, unlocked the gate and let us into the yard adjacent to the synagogue.

     “Currently, the only synagogue in Constanţa – the Great Synagogue, is in an advanced stage of

degradation, being abandoned and ransacked, in a real danger of collapse.

From the entire synagogue, there are only three full walls left, fractured diagonally. The roof was

destroyed, so were the majority of colored glass windows. The walls still preserve intact Jewish symbol –

Star of David.

     Although the entrance to the synagogue is not forbidden, even though the synagogue is in

danger of collapse, the access is impossible because of the packs of dogs in front of it.

On the left and right side of the building, there are new buildings; whose construction has only

weakened the”skeleton” left standing.

     Only 16 years ago, during 1995-1996, the local residents said that religious services could be

held in the synagogue. Once abandoned, without a security guard hired to watch it, the building was

ransacked of anything that was not nailed down. “

http://anale-arhitectura.spiruharet.ro/

    “The tenants of the neighboring house, who had put a chain to the gate and a few dogs in the yard, were the only ones to make sure and prevent homeless people take shelter inside the building.”

http://anale-arhitectura.spiruharet.ro

I gave the man a 10 Lei note to thank him.  Then I bent down to pick up a small bit of concrete as a reminder.  He then picked up a huge piece from the pile on the porch and broke a chunk off before I could stop him.  I had vague thoughts that taking “historic ruins” was some sort of crime but didn’t want to offend our “host.”  So I carried it back to the boat and will keep it until they need it back to refurbish the synagogue. 

     “To restore and consolidate the synagogue, extremely qualified workforce is needed, generous

funding and the desire to save one of the emblematic buildings belonging not only to the Jewish

Community but also to Constanţa.  A few years ago, the Jewish Community of Constanţa tried to save the Great Synagogue in Constanţa.  An architect from Bucharest, Robert Tauwinkl, developed a project to consolidate and repair the building of worship, which is in the archives of the County Department for

Culture, Cults, and Heritage of Constanţa.  The architect even obtained the certificate of urbanism.  A few steps on, things got stalled when it came to money; the building restoration costs a lot, beyond the

financial power of a community that does not even have a Rabbi any longer. “

http://anale-arhitectura.spiruharet.ro/

The Jews in Constanţa played an active role in the cultural and economic development of the

city, complying with the suggestions and taking advantage of the opportunities of the urban community

and official policy. From the late XIX-th century until around 1930, the number of the Jewish community

members rose – both in number and as economic power. Although the commercial activity and banking

are at core, the real estate should not be overlooked, as they left numerous traces in the public and

private space of the city.

The specific feature of the Jewish religion has led to building synagogues, schools, public baths,

and a cemetery. The social status of merchants and bankers, intellectuals (lawyers, journalists, doctors,

chemists, teachers, historians, librarians, architects, painters, actors, etc.) required and adequate

representation of both the professional space and the residential one. The Jews have contributed to

building the historic fund of Constanţa; today, a number of representative buildings became monuments of architecture.

It is an unfortunate fact that the present Jewish community of Constanţa has 59 members only,

which included those of Mangalia – many of them had been assimilated and only a few purely Jewish

ethnics. In these conditions, the problem of protecting the architectural heritage is a task beyond the

current influence of community. The saving of this Jewish architectural heritage, found on the Romanian

soil, requires extensive inter-institutional programs that can identify technical and financial means.

http://anale-arhitectura.spiruharet.ro

The Great Synagogue was on Str. C.A rosette

    Constantin Alexandru Rosetti was a Romanian literary and political leader, born in Bucharest into a Phanariot Greek family of Italian origin. Wikipedia

Born: June 2, 1816, Bucharest, Romania

Died: April 8, 1885

While reading about the Jewish community of Romania I was stunned to come across mention of the Struma and the Mafkura.  I remembered memorials to both immigrant ships in Ashdod, Israel.

Memorial to the Struma and the Milka Maritza in Ashdod

   “Since 1940, the Romanian government has adopted a series of measures to counteract a

possible aggression coming from the surging of the hostilities in Europe. The start of the war with the

Soviet Union on June 22, 1941, turned the city and port of Constanţa into the main target for the Soviet

aviation and navy.  During this period, the Jews, victims of the anti-Semitic laws, were still assisted in their efforts to emigrate and Romania remained  ”the most important place of illegal Jews embarking. They left for Palestine on the ships from the ports of Constanţa, Sulina, Tulcea, and Brăila.”

According to the existing data in the archives, the Jewish emigration through the port of

Constanţa took place with difficulty and sometimes disastrous but rhythmic between 1940 and 1944.

”There were several ships with the Jewish emigrants: 9 large vessels (Darien II, Struma, Milka,

Maritza, Belasitza, Kasbek, Bülbül, Mefküre, and Morina) – four of them (Darien II, Milka, Maritza, and

Belasitza) with two exits from the port – and 15 small vessels; the number of Jews who came from

Romania as above can be documented as of 4,846.”

http://anale-arhitectura.spiruharet.ro/

August 24, 2014

Sozopol Marina

Sozopol, Bulgaria

Constanta 2

This email shows our stroll into the old town for dinner the first night we arrived.  No history or many stories, just photos of the old town showing itself off in the evening light.

Ru

Leaving Sulina and the Danube behind at 6:55 pm for a night passage to Constanta

I’ve “painted” the 12 kilometers of canal bordered by stone breakwater quays .  You can see two boats going ahead of us from the canal to the Black Sea. 

Looking back as the sun set as we  began our journey into the Black Sea

Port tomis/Constanta

9:30 am was our arrival time in Constanta

We were tied stern-to on the back wall of Marina Bay marina which was rimmed all round with restaurants, cafes, and ice cream shops. 

Looks great but not an Israeli ice coffee!!!  But we made do.

Stefan Diamandi, future mariner

Stefan was intrigued by the heavy socks and boots both Randal and I were wearing.  Most tourists in hot places wear sandals or sneakers so Stefan is intrigued by those who wear boots.  He took our photo and I took his.  In Vidin I met interesting women, but in Romania we met interesting men.  (We wear boots because they’re just more supportive for all the walking we do.)

City Highlights

Situated at the crossroads of several commercial routes, Constanta lies on the western coast of the Black Sea, 185 miles from the Bosphorus Strait. An ancient metropolis and Romania’s largest sea port, Constanta traces its history some 2,500 years. Originally called Tomis, legend has it that Jason landed here with the Argonauts after finding the Golden Fleece.

     Founded by Greek colonists from Miletos in the 6th century BC, Tomis was conquered by the Romans in 71 BC and renamed Constantiana by Roman Emperor Constantine the Great in honor of his sister. The name was shortened to Constanta during the Ottoman era. During the 13th century, Italy, especially Genoese merchants, dominated the Black Sea and Constanta flourished, only to decline two centuries later under Turkish rule.

     Fine mansions and hotels were built in the 19th century when King Carol I decided to revive Constanta as a port and seaside resort.

     Constanta is the fourth largest port in Europe, ranked just after Rotterdam, Antwerp and Marseille.

The third largest city in Romania, Constanta is now an important cultural and economic centre, worth exploring for its archaeological treasures and the atmosphere of the old town centre. Its historical monuments, ancient ruins, grand Casino, museums and shops, and proximity to beach resorts make it the focal point of Black Sea coast tourism. Open-air restaurants, nightclubs and cabarets offer a wide variety of entertainment.

http://romaniatourism.com/constanta.html   also has info about all the landmarks we saw

The Genoese Lighthouse  (Farul Genovez)

Address: Str. Remus Opreanu

Soaring 26 feet, this lighthouse was built in 1860 by the Danubius and Black Sea Company to honor Genoese merchants who established a flourishing sea trade community here in the 13th century.

http://romaniatourism.com/constanta.html

The Casino   (Cazinoul)

Address: Blvd. Carpati 2

      During the 1914 visit of the Russian Imperial Family, the casino was host to a royal gala. Despite diplomatic negotiations, Grand Duchess Olga refused the proposed marriage to Prince Carol of Romania and the Russians sailed away. The Grand Duchess was later killed by the Bolsheviks along with the rest of her family.

Completed between the two World Wars in art nouveau style according to the plans of the architects, Daniel Renard and Petre Antonescu, the Casino features sumptuous architecture and a wonderful view of the sea. The pedestrian area around the Casino is a sought-after destination for couples and families, especially at sunset.

http://romaniatourism.com/constanta.html

     From a distance, the Art Nouveau building on a promenade beside the Black Sea looks majestic. As you walk closer, however, Casino Constanta reveals itself: broken windows, curling paint, and rusted railings hint at the dilapidation inside. 

     The casino, located in the southeast Romanian city of Constanta, was inaugurated in 1910. With its grand size, seaside location, and marine-themed decor, Casino Constanta soon attracted wealthy travelers and became a symbol of the city. But its glory days were short-lived.

Romania’s changing fortunes in the face of two world wars saw the casino fall into disrepair. During the Second World War, the building was used as a hospital. Under the post-war communist regime, it operated as a restaurant. By 1990, the place had become so run down that it was too expensive to maintain. The building has been closed ever since, a silent sentinel on the edge of the Black Sea.

http://www.slate.com/

Bogdan Nicodin gave us a lesson in Romanian and Eastern European modern history.  It’s always so interesting to hear from  someone who lives in a place there version of the country’s history.  His politics were similar to ours so we found what he said quite believable.  A very wise, witty, charming young man.

Ovid Square was the center of the old town area and full of charming buildings in various stages of repair and disrepair.

The Great Mahmudiye Mosque   (Moscheea Mare Mahmoud II)

Address: Strada Arhiepiscopiei 5 (Ovidiu Square)

     Built in 1910 by King Carol I, the mosque is the seat of the Mufti, the spiritual leader of the 55,000 Muslims (Turks and Tatars by origin) who live along the coast of the Dobrogea region. The building combines Byzantine and Romanian architectural elements, making it one of the most distinctive mosques in the area. The centerpiece of the interior is a large Persian carpet, a gift from Sultan Abdul Hamid. Woven at the Hereche Handicraft Centre in Turkey, it is one of the largest carpets in Europe, weighing 1,080 pounds. The main attraction of the mosque is the 164-ft minaret (tower) which offers a stunning view of the old downtown and harbor. Five times a day, the muezzin climbs 140 steps to the top of the minaret to call the faithful to prayer.

http://romaniatourism.com/constanta.html

National History & Archeology Museum

Constanta – Glykon

(Muzeul de Istorie Nationala si Arheologie)

Address: Piata Ovidiu 12

     An impressive collection of artifacts from Greek, Roman, and Daco-Roman civilizations is on display illustrating the history of Dobrogea from the Stone Age to modern days. Greek and Roman objects can be found on the main floor. Two statues, one of the "Glykon – The Fantastic Snake," dating from the 3rd century BC, and the other of "Goddess Fortuna and Pontos," god of the Black Sea, are considered protectors of the city and port and are the highlights of the collection.

Ovidiu’s Square

Constanta – Publius Ovidius

   Designed by the sculptor Ettore Ferrari in 1887, the statue dedicated to the Roman poet, Ovidius Publius Naso, gives name to this square. Emperor Augustus exiled Ovid to Tomis in 8 AD.

The House with Lions

Constanta – History and Archeology Museum   (Casa cu Lei)

Address: Str. Nicolae Titulescu 9

     Blending pre-Romantic and Genovese architectural styles, this late 19th century building features four columns adorned with imposing sculptured lions. During the 1930s, its elegant salons hosted the Constanta Masonic Lodge.

http://romaniatourism.com/constanta.html

Everything comes alive at night with the cooler temperatures

The Roman Mosaics   (Edificul Roman cu Mozaic)

Address: Piata Ovidiu 12 (next to the National History & Archeology Museum)

      A vast complex on three levels once linked the upper town to the harbor. Today, only about a third of the original edifice remains, including more than 9,150 sq ft of colorful mosaics. Built toward the end of the 4th century AD and developed over the centuries, it was the city’s commercial centre until the 7th century. Archeological vestiges point to the existence of workshops, warehouses and shops in the area. Remains of the Roman public baths can still be seen nearby. Aqueducts brought water six miles to the town.

http://romaniatourism.com/constanta.html

The new commercial port in the background

It was hard to photograph the birds as we weren’t so close to shore and I was busy catching up with the photos from earlier stops.  But here is a photo of a stork I did manage to catch.  Thankfully Delta tourism seems popular as a way to safeguard the wildlife in the area rather than draining the place as we did in Florida.  An eco-tourism industry has developed taking tourists into the Danube inlets to see the flora and fauna and visiting the small towns.  We were much too big to go those places and taking a “boat tour” at that point wasn’t in the cards. 

https://romaniadacia.wordpress.com/tag/danube-delta/ shows more and tells more about the Delta area with lovely photos of the land, birds and people.  Really worth a look.

Tied up at the Republica Restaurant which was another test of gymnastic abilities getting off and onto the boat.

There really is a Transilvania in Romania.   Thankfully Randal’s card did work here.

Big boats come along up the Danube here, this one from our destination, Istanbul.

We left Tulcea early for Sulina.

Along the way we’ve seen lots of horses, all looking well fed; at least from a distance.

http://www.independent.co.uk/

First single digit marker.

The last of the Danube charts we’ve been following.

Tied up along the waterfront promenade near St Nikolas Church.

Randal and  “Christi” the Sulina port police. 

He explained the port rules but also taught us about Romanian food which we tried the next day for lunch.

Romanian Orthodox not open when we were there.

“The cathedral was built between 1919-12 and 1933-34. It was built to commemorate the return of Dobrudja to Romania in 1878. The dome was a target in World War II and the church sustained heavy damage. Repairs began in 1969, furthered in 1975, and finally completed in 1982.

https://www.stnicholascenter.org/galleries/gazetteer/4079/

In the late 19th century, Sulina, although modest in size, was one of the most prosperous towns in Romania, thanks to the activities of the European Danube Commission. Numerous edifices and monuments (presented below), which have survived to the present day, although now in an advanced state of decay, complete the image of a once flourishing and cosmopolitan port.

1.The Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Nicholas was built in a number of stages, between 1910-12 and 1933-34. Its foundations were laid by King Carol I himself, on the occasion of his visit to Sulina in 1910, to commemorate the historic act whereby Dobrudja was returned to Romania in 1878. The church is remarkable for the harmony of the whole, the unity of its Neo-Romanian forms, and its picturesque details. In its architectural design, the central band of cable moulding and the mosaic medallions are particularly worthy of note.

     The fact that most of the places of worship in Sulina are dedicated to St Nicholas is because most of its inhabitants are mariners or fishermen, who honour this particular saint as their patron.

http://www.icr.ro/bucharest/

1856 (Ottoman). Inactive at least since 1983. 16 m (59 ft) round stone tower with lantern and gallery, attached to a 1-story masonry keeper’s house. Lighthouse painted white. A 1st order Fresnel lens is mounted in the lantern. …The Sulina Branch of the Danube is the only mouth navigable by modern ships. Sedimentation has moved the entrance to the river considerably to the east, leaving this historic lighthouse high and dry. Located on the south bank of the river in the town of Sulina. Site open, tower open daily for climbing. ARLHS ROM-019.

http://www.unc.edu/~rowlett/lighthouse/rou.htm

“We’ve been  waiting for you since 1945,” were the words spoken by the man on the far left.  He had his heart set on owning a Camaro one day.  He was with his wife’s brother and father.

In the cooler evenings shops opened and folks came out to stroll.

We managed to walk past the restaurant we were aiming for so ended up at the last one on the promenade.  The fish soup was only okay (not nearly as good as Martha’s) and probably not really intended as a meal.  But it was late so I didn’t want anything heavy.  But the singer was really good.  She sang many songs in English and sounded a bit to me lik Joan Baez.  She was sitting at the edge of the restaurant in the dark so my photo is a bit odd.

“Christi” recommended this place and one of the dishes he suggested was mamaliga

Mamaliga, goat cheese and cream : The photo is bland but the food wasn’t.

(Ma ma lee ga ) is very similar to polenta.  This goat cheese was very salty as is most goat cheese I’ve had away from home.  Mixed together it was very good but more than I could eat.

    “Romania isn’t best known for its food but it will be….I know. There is an incredibly rich culinary tradition here, homegrown in Romania, born out of the necessities of life, brought in by the Ottomans, Germans, Russians, Serbians, Hungarians…. Add to that a generous climate, fertile soil and the Black See that provide fabulous ingredients in abundance and you are ready to feast.

To understand Romania and to understand mămăliga, you have to understand traditional Romanian culture.

Historically, Romanians ate this golden bread (mămăliga – made from cornmeal) as a replacement to bread. It is inexpensive, easy to do every day, in every season and could be found in every house.

Mămăliga is similar to a porridge made out of wheat of cornmeal traditional for Romania. It is better known to the rest of the world in its Italian form named polenta.

Traditionally, mămăliga is cooked by boiling water, salt and cornmeal in a special-shaped cast iron pot called ”ceaun” or ”tuci”.

Mămăliga is much thicker than the regular Italian polenta to the point that it can be cut in slices with a string, like bread.

Sometimes, mămăliga can be much softer, almost to the consistency of porridge.

Mămăliga is a fat-free, cholesterol-free, high-fiber food. It can be used as a healthy alternative to more refined carbohydrates such as white bread, white pasta or white rice.

In Romania, mămăliga is used as a bread substitute and can be served all day:

-with sour cream and jam for breakfast,

-stuffed with cheese and served with pickles as a all day meal

– used as the starchy base for meaty stews, grills, Sarmale recipe here….(Mamaliga and Wild Boar Stew)…etc, at dinner. )

http://chocolateoblivion.blogspot.com/

Some buildings along the promenade had been lovely once upon a time, but now needed lots of rennovation. 

The Danube: Kilometer  2412 back in Kelheim, Germany to 0 at Sulina, Romania

We finallytied up here at 1 pm after fighting the currents.  We’d tied up to a different dock but was told it was private so had to leave.  This dock was nearer the old part of the city.  There were no power or water hook-ups so we knew our stay would just be overnight.  We were able to snag wifi from a restaurant down the waterfront. 

We closed up the boat and set off for lunch in the old town area.

     “In the early 19th century, Turks, Romanians, and many Greeks, especially merchants, Armenians and Jews lived in the city. Since the early 1830’s, many more Greeks, basically traders and craftsmen, settled down in Braila, and quickly dominated the economic life of the city.

The number of Greeks in the second half of the 19th century, was about 5,000, representing 10% of the city residents. In this time, Braila was the largest port in the country and an important industrial center.

The Greek people dominated the field of flour industry. We should mention that four out of the five modern mills in the city, belonged to greek families: (The Galiatsatou brothers, John Millas and Son, Christophoratou etc). The Greek mills were among the most modernized in Romania and in contrast to the flour mills of Bucharest, they were directed to exports. Until the eve of the Second World War, there had been established some other units, such as Panayis Violatos’ flour mill and that of Lykiardopoulos-Valerianos, the largest in Romania.

Shipping

Throughout the Ottoman period, Braila was a notable commercial center, mainly as a port exporting cereals and other agricultural products. In 1837, the number of ships that had sailed to the port reached 448. The ships under Greek flag had the strongest presence in the commerce. A. Petalas, Th. Faraggas and I. Lykiardopoulos were among the most important Greek merchants.

The main activity of the greek community of Braila, was, however, the riverboats. Some of the greatest owners of barges (slepion) were Manuel G. Chrysovelonis, Stathatos Brothers, Othon Stathatos and many others.

Massive flight of Greeks in 1950-1951

In 1950-1951, we have the decline of the Greek community. Approximately 50% of the Greek people who lived in Braila decided to leave the city because of the change in the political status. Some of them moved to Greece, others to Australia or America, leaving all their fortune behind. One of the consequences was the definite closure of the Greek schools in the area.”

http://www.aionion.gr/en/historical-data/

Art deco?  I’m not sure, but the doors and window grates were lovely.  The streets between the river and the “old town area” had seen better days, but some buildings still had lovely architectural freatures.

The Blue Clock its one of the city landmarks. Built in 1909 by a clockmaker from Prague, its located in Traian square, right in the middle of the historic center.  http://www.dreamstime.com/

Bank of Romania across the road from the Greek Church

“Owned by the Greek community, the Evangelismos church was built between 1863-1872 by the architect Abraham Ioannidis, originating from Prussa, Asia Minor. He himself supervised the construction of the church by Italian builders and craftsmen.

The Church has the form of a cross, with two domes and its dominant style is Greek – Byzantine, with Gothic and Renaissance details.

The murals at the central dome were painted by Gh. Tattarescu in 1872. Constantine Livadas-Liokis from Cephalonia painted another part of the church in 1901 and finally, in 1945 – 46 Velissarios completed the murals.”  http://www.aionion.gr/en/historical-data/

The old town architecture.

Architecture

     “The old center of the city has many 19th century buildings, some of them fully restored. The most important monuments are the Greek Church, erected at 1865 by the Greek community, the „Sfintii Arhangheli” Church (the oldest in the city, begun in 1667, the former mosque was transformed into an Orthodox Church in 1808), the 19th century „Sfantul Nicolae” Church, also from the 19th century, the „Maria Filotti” theatre, the Palace of Culture and its Art Museum, the History Museum, and the old Water Tower. The latter houses a restaurant with a rotation system (360° in one hour).

    Early in 2006 the municipality received European Union funds to renovate the old center of the city, aiming to transform Braila into a major tourist attraction of Muntenia.

    Tourists who get to Braila can also visit many interesting places like: Public Garden, a park situated above the bank of the Danube with a view over the river and the Macin Mountains, Monument Park, Natural Sciences Museum situated on Park Highway, the Mini-Zoo, Independence Square, Braila Museum form Traian Square, the statuary group Traian, built by the sculptor Tache Dimo – Pavelescu on celebrating 1800 years from the conquest of Dacia, the clock in the city centre, dating since 1909, Kinetic Fountain situated in the city’s civic centre ,which is the "brainchild" of the famous Romanian sculptor Constantin Lucaci, also known as the "2nd Brancusi". Kinetic Fountain is a fantastic and eye-catching example of kinetic art, optical art, programmed art and neoconstructivism.” http://ec.europa.eu/

Red and Green Travelocity gnomes on a balcony in Braila

Sunday afternoon seemed to generate little activity and most small shops in the area were closed

Second Hand from some well known shops.

A great balcony to people watch

Ana Aslan was born in Braila

     Ana Aslan (1897-1988, born in Braila) studied at the Faculty of Medicine in Bucharest (1915-1922). She was professor of Cardiology at the Faculty of Medicine in Timisoara (1945-1949). Between 1949 and 1952 she was head of department at the Institute of Endocrinology in Bucharest. Starting in 1952 she became General Director of the Institute of Geriatrics. As one of the pioneering scientists in the world on medical gerontology, Ana Aslan focused also on social gerontology.

     Ana Aslan proposed systematic countermeasures in order to create a system to stimulate third-age people’s activities. Ana Aslan became aware of the long-term biotrophic action of Procaine and introduced it as a medicine to be taken in small quantity on long terms, for curing and prophylactic benefits. The Gerovital H3 is the first Romanian original biotrophic product and also the first medicine designed to delay human aging processes. It was developed between 1946 and 1956 by Prof. Ana Aslan and her followers, as a result of numerous clinical and experimental studies.

http://www.ana-aslan.ro/#!biografie-ana-aslan-uk/c1v6d

“J Am Geriatr Soc. 1975 Aug;23(8):355-9.

Effects of a procaine preparation (Gerovital H3) in hospitalized geriatric patients: a double-blind study.

Zwerling I, Plutchik R, Hotz M, Kling R, Rubin L, Grossman J, Siegel B.

Abstract

The effects of Gerovital H3 (a specially stabilized form of procaine hydrochloride) on geriatric psychiatric patients were assessed in a double-blind study at Bronx State Hospital. The mean age of the subjects was 73 years and the average rating for the severity of organic symptoms was "moderate." During the first six weeks of study, the patients were each given a 5-ml injection of either Gerovital or placebo (saline) intramuscularly three times a week. This dosage was doubled to 10 ml per injection during the second six weeks. Nine Gerovital and 10 control subjects completed the first six weeks; and 6 Gerovital and 7 control subjects completed the entire 12-week study. Objective rating scales were used to evaluate patients on measures of interpersonal functioning, cognitive ability, psychiatric symptoms, and urine and blood chemical findings. All subjects were assessed before treatment and at six weeks and twelve weeks of the study. Side effects were recorded at two-week intervals. On most measures the variability between subjects was quite large, whereas differences between average scores for the two groups usually were small The few significant differences showed no systematic pattern and would be expected to occur by chance alone when so many statistical comparisons are made. The overall results of this double-blind study strongly indicated that, among these hospitalized geriatric patients with organic symptoms, Gerovital H3 had no ameliorative effect on either psychologic or physiologic functioning.”  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1097490

Gerovital H3: Banned Fountain Of Youth Drug Favored By Hollywood Makes A Comeback

By News Staff | July 3rd 2013

“Gerovital H3, one of the "fountain of youth" miracles drugs that crop up once a generation, was banned in the United States in 1982, but the alternative medicine crowd that never let go of homeopathy after hundreds of years is reviving it.

The FDA can’t always protect people, of course. Communist Romania engaged in state-sponsored marketing of Gerovital H3. In 1956, a paper titled "A new method for prophylaxis and treatment of aging with Novocain-eutrophic and rejuvenating effects" was published in the now discontinued journal Therapiewoche by Ana Aslan, director of the Geriatrics Institute of Bucharest and the communist regime established an anti-aging resort and clinic for foreigners.

It’s not perfect, but the FDA remains the best scientific food and medicine body in the world.”

http://www.science20.com/

  We walked to old town looking for lunch.  Sadly, while we were eating some very persistent “Roma/gypsi “ girls came begging.  The ony way they would leave is when the waitress said she would call the police.  You are torn as to how to handle the situation. 

   “THE Roma community is beeing chased from countries across Europe. Romania and France have sent Roma back and forth since 2007, when Romania joined the European Union, but it seems that the French are now intending to pursue a harder line towards the Roma from Romania in their country.

On September 12th, Manuel Valls, France’s interior minister, and Bernard Cazeneuve, the minister for European Affairs, travelled to Romania to discuss Roma integration with the country’s president and prime minister. The visit was expected to bring some concrete proposals on how to improve the integration of the estimated 400,000 Roma living in France (a large part of whom are from Romania). Yet they only struck a framework agreement that allows some 80 Roma families who wish to return to Romania to receive “financial support for economic reinsertion” by the French authorities…….Mr Ponta said the real solution to the problem is education and jobs: children from Roma communities need to attend school regularly and Roma need to find stable jobs in Romania. …..Gelu Duminica, the head of the “Impreuna” Agency for Community Development, a foundation that supports the integration and development of the Roma community, says five of their programmes that are financed through the EU are currently suspended because the Romanian government didn’t make payments:”

http://www.economist.com/

     “From the time they entered Europe from India a thousand years ago, the Roma were targets of discrimination.

Countries passed laws to suppress their culture and keep them out of the mainstream — and sometimes went much further. Roma were enslaved in Hungary and Romania in the 15th century and targeted for extermination by Nazi Germany 500 years later.”

http://edition.cnn.com  explains the people called “Roma.” 

After lunch and a quick trip to the grocery store, we returned to the boat.  Randal’s ATM processing company as well as mine refused to allow us access to our accounts in Romania without email confirmation.  Ricks’s card had worked but was limited by the machine’s limits.  So we didn’t have so much money to squander.  (The situation was resolved by our next stop, Tulcea.)  It was quite hot so sitting around under fans resting was about the only thing to do.

In the evening we set out for a walk and that’s when Braila comes alive.  Lots of folks out for Sunday evening strolls in the cool dusk.  Dinner is a late affair: 9 or 10 pm.  That’s fine for Rick and Mary, but Randal and I are ready for bed about that time.  By 8pm I’m usually not hungry.  We actually did stop for a snack and I had some wonderful grilled vegetables. 

A greenway/park followed the river front

The early evening drew out the citizenry to the park and restaurants along the way. 

Seagulls or aliens?

A fountain with moving parts fascinated us

Kinetic Fountain situated in the city’s civic centre ,which is the "brainchild" of the famous Romanian sculptor Constantin Lucaci, also known as the "2nd Brancusi". Kinetic Fountain is a fantastic and eye-catching example of kinetic art, optical art, programmed art and neoconstructivism.”

The work of the famous Romanian sculptor Constantin Lucaci, called by many "the second Brancusi?. Lucaci remains, above all, the sculptor in stainless steel. Commissioned in 1988, the impressive fountain depicting two hands, that move and join.

     The of Ancient, Renaissance and Enlightened traditions are combined by the architect. Neoconstructivism, kinetic art, optical art, art scheduled, new materials, all contribute to the achievement of a large sculpture and a monumental work.

     Elements that define the force of the artist’s sculpture are the material – stainless steel unalterable – the lightning vibrations exploring the polished surface, the movement, the sonority and also the project itself – that of a sculpture of urban integration.

http://www.romguide.net/Visit/Kinetic-Fountain_vt28c

They looked like Oscar statuettes made subtle movements as did the whale’s tale looking things

Lots of folks were out enjoying the evening

Braila city’s new center where this small boy was far more interested in the planter than the fountains.

Ecaterina Teodoroiu statue in the new city center

Ecaterina Teodoroiu (Romanian pronunciation: [ekateˈrina te.odoˈroju]; born Cătălina Toderoiu; January 15, 1894 – September 3, 1917) was a Romanian woman who fought and died in World War I, and is regarded as a heroine of Romania.

In Romanian historiography, Ecaterina Teodoroiu is placed in the context of gendered experience of the Great War on the Eastern Front, on the same pedestal as Queen Maria of Romania.

She was born in the village of Vădeni (nowadays part of Târgu Jiu), in the historical region of Oltenia, in Southern Romania. After studying for 4 years in Vădeni and Târgu Jiu and graduating from the Girls’ School in Bucharest, she was to become a teacher when the Romanian Kingdom entered World War I on the Allied side, in 1916.

In October 1916, Ecaterina joined the Romanian Army during the first Jiu battle when General Ion Dragalina’s 1st Army repulsed the 9th German Army offensive. A Scouts’ member, she had initially worked as a nurse but she subsequently decided to become a front-line soldier, being deeply impressed by the patriotism of the wounded and by the death of her brother Nicolae (Sergeant in the Romanian Army). It was an unusual decision for a woman of that epoch, so she was sent to the front rather reluctantly. However, soon she proved her worthiness as a symbol and as a soldier. She was taken prisoner but managed to escape by killing two, or perhaps three German soldiers. In November, she was wounded and hospitalized, but came back to the front where she was soon decorated, advanced in rank to Sublocotenent (Second Lieutenant) and given the command of a 25-man platoon.

For her bravery she was awarded the Military Virtue Medal, 1st Class.

On September 3, 1917 (August 22 Old Style), she was killed in the Muncelu-Varnița area, during the last phase of the Battle of Mărășești (in Vrancea County), where she was hit in the chest by German machine gun fire. According to some accounts, her last words before dying were: "Forward, men, I’m still with you!"

She was buried in the city center of Târgu Jiu, and her grave is honored by a monument erected in 1936 by Miliţa Petraşcu.   Wikipedia  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecaterina_Teodoroiu

A print-mixing fashionista and her grandson.

Pedal and motorized go-karts along the river promenade.  At times they were more like dodge cars. 

Super-moon August 10^th

“Sunday’s “super moon” will be the biggest and closest full moon of 2014, with scientists are saying there will not be a closer full moon until November, 2034. It will be a perigee full moon, meaning it is near earth and will appear 30 percent brighter and 14 percent bigger.”

Read more at http://guardianlv.com/

DoraMac at the dock of the Hotel Drustar

The hotel manager had come to catch our lines and help get the power supply working.  He also talked with us a bit about life in Silistra and Romania in general.   The end of Soviet “planned economy” and the advent of democracy had given many people his age the option to leave to find better jobs in other countries. 

“On the beautiful riverside of the River Danube, right next to the unique archeological complex next to the first Danube park in Europe where is situated a luxurius five-star hotel, named after the ancient name of Silistra "Drustar" /everlasting castle/.

The hotel has a sense of the ancient culture together with a touch of a romance which is carried along Danube. It amazes the eye with ist unique infrastucture and its exellent style.

Hotel Drustar is awarded the Gold Authentic Bulgaria Quality mark and a Rose of Distinction in Ambience.

Hotel Drustar is situated on the river Danube, in the beautiful city park. The location of the hotel is in the best location, close to all financial institutions and cultural sites.

The city Silistra is 120 km from Bucharest and 150 km to Varna, which makes the location a convenient top spot.”   http://www.hoteldrustar.com/?lang=eng

Getting the power supply to work. 

Every place we stop is different from every other place we stop.  Thankfully most of them can provide power and water.  This is the first trip we’ve ever made where you can’t absolutely plan your next stop and where power and water aren’t always available.  A few times we had to postpone doing laundry and in Ruse actually used the Yacht Club washing machine and shower.   As Mary keeps sayin, we were really lucky that by the end of the day we found a yacht club with space for a boat our size.  The further east, the more we had to anchor or tie up to restaurant barges, but that was okay too. 

Sunrise looking further down river

Seagulls rafting downriver on a log

This reminded me of my Outward Bound days though our boat was 30 feet long and had two masts.  But we had to use these huge oars too.  Notice the kids on the left are in sync but not the 2 on the right.

Now they have it.  They are rowing against the current going up river. 

Just down the Danube river park near the Drustar Hotel

From the second half of the iX Century.  You can see shape of the 3 apse “temple” as it is called here.

Our North Cyprus friend Kalle had made himself an electric motorized bicycle so we thought he’d like to see this gasoline motorized version parked just near the outdoor market.  Both versions can be pedaled as well. 

The central outdoor market

This lady’s stall had the longest line in the market.  We weren’t sure what was so special but they all knew.  One thing we couldn’t find anywhere were raisins. 

A shop selling wine from barrels

Red and white

In Sicily we’d gone to shop like this intending to buy some wine but didn’t find one we liked so didn’t want to chance that again here.  I would have felt awkward saying, “sorry, we don’t like any of your wine.”   Looks like you could buy olive oil too, but we really didn’t need any.

Renovation and archeological excavations were in progress around the center of town. 

The oddest “iced coffee” so far.  Coca Cola with frozen coffee crystals and ice is my guess.  Funny enough we met a Dutch couple who had also been in Silistra and gotten the same Iced coffee and also left most of it on the table.  Randal drank the remaining Coke that was served with the coffee.  I guess you were supposed to drink some and then add more of the Cola. This is where Randal had ordered cappuccino but had gotten instant hot chocolate.  He drank the Cola and I drank some of his hot chocolate.  At least it was a nice shady spot and good for a rest. 

After our “refreshments” we continued exploring the city.  I found the neighborhood picturesque.  Randal, not so much.  But it reminded me of my wanderings in China and many of the places we’ve visited.    Interestingly, most of the homes were one or two story at most; many with some gardens or decorative planters.

The following day we walked several miles away from the center of town looking for soda water in 6 pack plastic bottles.   We saw mostly high rise concrete apartment buildings.  (As we’d set out to go grocery shopping that morning I’d not taken my camera which just is too much along with lots of groceries. ) The buildings were fronted with wide sidewalks where simple stalls had been set up and people were selling luscious fruit and vegetables.  One small stall had watches and I bought one for 9 lev.  It is just like the simple large-faced one I’d bought in Kotta Tinghy Malaysia many years ago but whose silicone band had broken and I’d found no replacement.  We walked over an hour exploring and stopping in small grocery stores eventually finding the German Lidl supermarket but it had no small bottles of soda water.  (Big ones go flat too fast.)  So we walked back to the center of town, ate lunch and then walked the other direction to the Kaufland supermarket and found the soda water.  We would need a taxi to carry it all back so stopped at the service desk to ask if a taxi could be arranged when we’d finished shopping.  The service counter lady called her English speaking colleague and he said to come to the desk when we were ready to leave and they would call a taxi.  Very helpful.  So was the taxi driver.

Some women just have the knack.

I notice these women for several reasons.  We’d passed the lady on the right in the outdoor market and other places around town.  They both come to about my shoulder.  And I envied the way they could mix prints and have it look nice.  Women everywhere around the world can do this and I love the way it looks.  At home you would raise eyebrows if you dressed like this.  At least once upon a time.  Lately it seems to be a “fashion trend.”

“Break out of your wardrobe rut by mixing patterns.  Simple Guidelines for Mixing Patterns

1.Make sure one color repeats in every piece of the outfit (for example, navy paisley with navy, red, and white plaid).

2.Combine loose prints with structured prints (like swirls with stripes).

3.Blend small designs with larger-scale ones (such as gingham with bold flowers).

http://www.realsimple.com/

I just wonder what their lives have been all about and all that’s they’ve seen. 

He started in Vienna  on his way to the Black Sea and often caught up and passed us!  He had camping equipment with him.  And he’s not the only one to do this.  You can bike the trip also which I’d think a better choice. 

http://www.tcs.cam.ac.uk/

http://www.vitezkurtos.com

Dimitar Kulev  (Tania Dimitrova Kuleva) and self-portrait lithograph I believe.

https://www.facebook.com/

Dimitar kindly walked me around the museum and though we didn’t speak the same language we could share the art.  It’s really a wonderful museum.

My Land So Beautiful 1986

Stoyan Venev 1904-1989

National Academy of the Arts Sofia in 1931

Fire Walkers 1973

Zlatyu Boyadjiev 1903 – 1976

National Academy of Arts Sofia in 1932

A City Morning 1986

Svetlin Rusev 1933-

National Academy of Arts Sofia 1959

A collage