Ruse final bits

Tomis Yachting Club and Marina (Constanta Municipality)

Port Tomis, Constanta, Bulgaria

Salut,

Mary and I went out to find a supermarket while Randal and Rick wrestled with the wires that needed to go back up the mast.  They’re still at it now, but have had a bit of success.  Oiy!  It’s one of the reasons we’ll probably be here a few more days longer than we planned.  That’s fine as there’s lots to see in the old town area.  While Mary was using the ATM, I was looking into the closed Tourist Office.  The lovely woman inside opened the door, welcomed me in and gave us maps and brochures.  She was very helpful.  It’s a holiday weekend and the office was closed yesterday and today.  So she was very kind indeed.

This email is the final one from Ruse.  The next email will be about our visit to Silistra.

Ru

http://davidsbeenhere.com/2014/07/08/mini-travel-guide-ruse-bulgaria/   This is a blog to read if you really plan to go to Ruse. 

We arrived in Ruse on Sunday, a day when many shops traditionally close.  But after being on the boat for several hours we always need some walking so off we went into town to find some lunch.  We walked past the History Museum and the Regional Library and a small park that was being upgraded.  In a few blocks we passed a small open air market and then a closed shop selling barbeque chicken.  Eventually we found an open restaurant called Plan B and had a late lunch.  We had an interesting discussion whether the restaurant was the owner’s Plan B or the restaurant was supposed to be your Plan B if your first choice was not available.  The food was good and the restaurant very modern.  Then we walked into the town center, toured around for a bit and returned to the boat.  Every day we’d go back into town but somehow we never did stop at the library and the museum signage was in Romanian so we took a pass.  I did go in and ask about Lipnik, but didn’t learn more than I already knew though the ladies were very nice.  The main center of town was a 15 minute uphill walk from the boat.  When it’s as hot as it has been the past weeks, you tend to wander less, unless you get lost as we did on the way to the Transportation Museum and then you wander a lot.  ( A lovely lady and her young daughter of granddaughter walked us out of their way to show us where to go.)  Below are all the photos that I thought showed our view of Ruse.

clip_image001 clip_image002

A small Sunday outdoor market.  I hope the empty boxes mean much of the produce had been sold.  Had we been on our way home we probably would have bought some.

clip_image003

Randal and Rick checking out the barbequed chicken store. 

clip_image004

clip_image005

Street art

clip_image006 clip_image007

Official Public Art

“Monument of Liberty was designed by S. Zlatev and S. Kiryakov. The sculpture was made by Arnoldo Zocchi – an architect and sculptor from Fiorentina. Today the monument is part of the city’s coat of arms. It is made of granite and bronze. The statue at the top represents a figure of a woman that holds a sword in its left hand while the right hand points the direction of the liberators. One of the two bronze lions at the base breaks the chains of slavery with its mouth, and the other one protects the Sword and Shield of Freedom. The text of the main sign says, “Dedicated to the fighters and the volunteers who took part in the Liberation of Bulgaria in 1876-1877.” Two cannons are placed at the rear end of the base.”  http://rusetourism.org/  a very good introduction if you visit Ruse.

clip_image008

A truly terrible photo of the monument with the lions and a small monument of a man fighting a water monster … maybe.

clip_image009

Fountains make you feel cooler!

clip_image010

A  wood sculpture of razors

clip_image011

clip_image012

Lots of fountains and pools in the center of town. 

clip_image013

This photo should have been included with the architecture email.  Rick and Mary have noticed changes, (especially here in Romania) where things have been spiffed up especially in tourist areas.  It’s a trade-off though.  If the EU gives money for local development, it also has lured many 20 and 30 year olds to better paying jobs outside their countries into other parts of the EU. 

“Ruse is the biggest Bulgarian town on the Danube River through which during the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century penetrated the European values, ideas and trends in architecture.  In 2007 well preserved buildings from that epoch were included in the European Heritage Sign Initiative.”

clip_image014 clip_image015

A lovely neighborhood street with trees and a café just near the Danube.  At the end this young boy was entertaining himself with a “street puzzle.”                                                                         

clip_image016

An interesting billboard near Lipnik Boulevard.

clip_image017

Balloon man was wearing  a harlequin costume rather than a clown suit.

clip_image018

A ceramic boot planter outside a shoe shop.

clip_image019

Randal shows his appreciation to a street performer.

clip_image020

It was only after we bought and opened the bottle that we realized it said Tonic.  We’d wanted soda water.  But it’s diet Tonic so I drink it and actually quite like it.  Good thing as we bought, and lugged back, 6 big bottles. 

clip_image021

A blow up slide in the park with many of the stone women sculptures

clip_image022

Pedal cars

clip_image023

“Model of a vase in the park in Rousse. Each season different flowers are planted in it to make it look nice and colourful. “

clip_image024

Cups of hot corn off the cob with different sauces.  I had a cup with garlic sauce in Vidin.

clip_image025

Luben Karavelov; the statue with the book.

“Lyuben Stoychev Karavelov (Bulgarian: Любен Стойчев Каравелов) (c. 1834 – 21 January 1879) was a Bulgarian writer and an important figure of the Bulgarian National Revival…… Karavelov died in 1879, soon after the liberation of Bulgaria, in Rousse…….

     At his first newspaper Svoboda (Freedom) in Bucharest (1869–1873), we worked and became friends with poet and revolutionary Hristo Botev who devoted a poem to him. In 1870, Karavelov was elected chairman of the Bulgarian Revolutionary Central Committee, where he worked with Vasil Levski, the leader of the Internal Revolutionary Organization; he shared Levski’s ideas of a democratic republic as the goal of the national revolution. Karavelov admired the political systems of Switzerland (which he believed was the model for the ethnically diverse Balkans) and the United States; he praised the American public education system, as well as the emancipated (in his opinion) status of American women.

     Karavelov’s works include the short novels Old Time Bulgarians (Bulgarian: „Българи от старо време“; Bulgari ot staro vreme, and Mommy’s Boy (Bulgarian: „Мамино детенце“; Mamino detentse), considered among the first original Bulgarian novels. His younger brother Petko was a prominent figure in Bulgaria’s political life in the late 19th century.”  Wikipedia

clip_image026

What on earth?

When I downloaded my photos there was a whole series of these, most not so clear.  I finally realized that Randal had taken photos of my shadow hanging the laundry on the front of the boat. 

Ruse Stone Women

Port Tomas, Constanta, Bulgaria

Salut,

  Just now we’re listening to some really bad rap music to celebrate Navy day and the religious holiday for Mary’s Assumption.  There were big doing which I’ll probably get to writing about sometime in October at the rate I’m getting these emails out.  It takes me forever to find the few bits of info I do find.  So I keep looking and get frustrated and shut down the computer which gets me no place at all.  So as I said previously, more photos and few, if any words.

As we walked around Ruse I noticed lots and lots of statues of women.  Wish I knew why. 

Ru

DoraMac

http://www.bulgarian-monuments.com/browse/%D0%A0/Rusenska  had the tiny bit of info but really no explanation why so many statues of women around Ruse.

clip_image001clip_image002

I took a photo of this stone woman but looking at my photo on the computer I noticed something odd about her clothing.  Not sure if this is intentional.

clip_image003

Tonka Obretenova

Born 1812

assumed Rousse, Bulgaria

Died 27 March 1893(1893-03-27)

Rousse, Bulgaria

Spouse(s) Tiho Obretenov

Tonka Obretenova (Bulgarian: Тонка Обретенова), known as baba Tonka (баба Тонка), was a female Bulgarian revolutionary, born in 1812, probably in Rousse.

Her parents, Toncho Postavchiyata (Тончо Поставчията) and Minka Toncheva (Минка Тончева), were from the village of Cherven. She married Tiho Obretenov — a famous tailor and tradesman in Rousse. They had seven children (five sons and two daughters) all of whom participated in the Bulgarian revolutionary movement.[1] Obretenova herself lent major support to the revolutionary committee – she was famous for sheltering a number of revolutionary leaders.[2] The Rousse Revolutionary Committee, the most important one in the interior of Bulgaria, was established by her son Nikola Obretenov, in her house. Baba Tonka buried Stefan Karadzha, and managed to preserve his skull.

Her sons Angel, Petar, Nikola, and Georgi (Ангел, Петър, Никола и Георги) took part in different detachments and were killed, or sent into long exile. Her younger daughter, Anastasiya (Анастасия; also called: Siya, Сия) married Zahari Stoyanov — a revolutionary, writer and publicist.

Baba Tonka Cove in Livingston Island in the South Shetland Islands, Antarctica is named after Tonka Obretenova.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tonka_Obretenova

clip_image004

Woman with a hoe but no info

clip_image005

Sculpture of a woman on her knees

The sculpture is in the park in Rousse. It was made in May 2006.

clip_image006

Same park but no info

clip_image007

Fountain in the park in Rousse

clip_image008

Except for the child at the far left, I think they’re all girls.

clip_image009

Monument of the heroes that died in the battle against fascism ; the sculpture is a woman

clip_image010

Not a sculpture; but a lovely book shop clerk, very fluent in English and where they sold English language books.

Ruse architecture

Port Tomas, Constanta, Romania

Salut

So Sad about Robbin Williams.  In 2005 we were in San Francisco for a family wedding.  One night an old college buddy of my sister’s took us to a sushi restaurant.  At one point I heard a voice behind me and I knew instantly who it was.  Robin Williams had come in for his take out Sushi and beer.  I had my camera and he graciously posed.  He was shorter and better looking in person but so very willing to smile for me and my photo. 

   I have been having a heck of time doing these emails lately.  It’s hard to find info to go with my photos.  And today my outlook email won’t send so luckily we have a free wifi that Rick’s super antennae found so I can attempt to send this.  We’ve met some lovely people here in Port Tomas which has a lovely old “Old Town.”  We’ll be here about a week putting up the mast and getting things ship shape. 

Hope these photos are worth 1,000 words because I really don’t have much else.  I loved Vidin and I’m really liking Port Tomas.  Ruse, even with its Lipnik connections was only Okay.  Had there been a walking tour I’m sure I’d feel differently to have learned more.  So it goes. 

Ru

Ruse Architecture

http://paintingz.wordpress.com/ruse/  discusses the history/architecture of Ruse

clip_image001

The path from the road to the Ruse Yacht Club

clip_image002

The white building had a very basic toilet, a roomy but basic shower and a washing machine. 

Usually Randal and I shower and do laundry on the boat, but there was a water problem so we couldn’t refil our half empty tank so we showered and did laundry in the Yacht Club building. 

clip_image003

Our friends Ernst and Erika on our left and the boat Celestine on our right.  We’d been in Novi Sad with both boats and with Celestine in Belgrade and again here in Ruse.  Celestine had two Jack Russel type dogs you barked hello but that was about it.  They weren’t yappy at all. 

The main street of the city is Aleksandrovska, it is an architectural ensemble of buildings in Neo-Baroque, Neo-Rococo and other architectural styles.

http://bgtourinfo.net/ruse.html talks about the architecture with some photos.

Some of these photos are the town center and some further away on our way to Lipnik Boulevard. 

clip_image004

clip_image005

clip_image006

clip_image007

clip_image008

clip_image009

clip_image010

clip_image011

clip_image012

clip_image013

clip_image014

clip_image015

clip_image016

clip_image017

clip_image018

clip_image019

clip_image020

More “modern” Ruse

clip_image021

Soviet style buildings

clip_image022

Mixed

clip_image023

A lovely crumbling old building in the park.

Ruse Bulgaria 1

Sulina, Romania

Salut

   So we are now at marker 0 on the Danube.  Tonight we will be in the Black Sea on our way Port Tomas also in Romania.  It will be an overnight passage which thrills me no end but so it goes.  In Port Thomas we will put the mast back up, clear out from Romania and get ready to head back to Varna Bulgaria.  From Varna we’ll go on to Sozopol, Bulgaria where we’ll clear out and from there to Istanbul.  In this email we’re back in Ruse with its Lipnik connection.  So next email from Port Thomas

Ru

Ps  These train photos are for everyone but especially Cousin Ernest and our Boat Builder Bill, both train aficionados.

Ruse is a large port city on the Danube River in Northeast Bulgaria and an administrative center of the eponymous municipality and region. Located 75 kilometers from the Romanian capital of Bucharest, the city is a strategic intermodal and logistic center of the country. With a population of 147,817 (according to National Statistical Institute data as of 2013) it is the fifth largest city in Bulgaria. Unemployment in the region of Ruse is 10.7% (as of March 2014), compared with an average unemployment rate of 12.2% in the country.

The proximity of the Danube River has always been important for the city’s development – ever since ancient times. This is the place where the Roman fortified military camp of Sexaginta Prista, meaning “the city of 60 ships”, was established in the 1st century AD. Since the 16th century the city has been known under its Ottoman name of Ruschuk. Under the Ottoman rule, Ruse was one of the major cities of the Ottoman Empire, which influenced its economic and cultural development. Ruse was first in many respects: it is the place where the first railway station in Bulgaria was built, a modern printing house was opened, a newspaper was started. The city was the seat of many consulates too.

      After 1878 Ruse was the largest city in the Bulgarian Principality; its economy developed rapidly and that changed the overall look of the city. The connection with Europe that the city provided through the Danube River was beneficial to its development. Due to the beautiful architecture and interior of its buildings designed by Italian, Austrian, German and Bulgarian architects Ruse is called “little Vienna”.

One of the symbols of the city is Dohodno Zdanie (meaning “profitable building”): a beautiful public building in the center of Ruse. It was built in 1901-1902 and impresses with its magnificent façade and seven sculptures on the roof. Other landmarks include the Regional Historical Museum and the Urban Lifestyle Museum, which is also known as Calliope’s House. One of the most interesting landmarks in Ruse is the remains of Sexaginta Prista fortress. Ruse is home to Bulgaria’s only National Transport Museum, which is located in the building of the first railway station in Bu

lgaria. The beautiful Nature Park of Rusenski Lom is situated 20 kilometers southwest of the city on an area of 3,408 hectares.

      The city’s location is particularly advantageous in transportation and geographical terms. Besides being a busy cargo and passenger port, the city is also a border check-point of Bulgaria’s road and railroad connections with the whole of Eastern Europe and parts of Central Europe.

The main industrial sectors in Ruse are machine-building and metal processing (40% of the total volume), followed by the chemical, food-and-beverage and textile industries.

      Ruse is the biggest Bulgarian port on the Danube in terms of import, export and passenger traffic. It is the seat of Bulgarian River Shipping Company, which services three passenger lines: to Vidin, Svishtov and Silistra. These lines have 19 ports. A big cargo, passenger and tourist flow passes through Druzhba Bridge, which connects Ruse and Giurgiu.

http://jessicafund.bg/en/category/projects/ruse/

clip_image001

When reading about Ruse I saw a Lipnik Nature Reserve just nearby.  We didn’t make it there, but did walk to find Lipnik Boulevard.  Both seem to be connected to the Lipa tree or Linden tree. 

Slavic mythology

     “In old Slavic mythology, the linden (lipa, as called in all Slavic languages) was considered a sacred tree.[15] Particularly in Poland, many villages have a name "Święta Lipka" (or similar), which literally means "Holy Lime". To this day, the tree is a national emblem of Slovakia, Slovenia, the Czech Republic, and the Sorbs.[citation needed] Lipa gave name to the traditional Slavic name for the month of June (Croatian, lipanj) or July (Polish, lipiec, Ukrainian "lypen’/липень"). It is also the root for the German city of Leipzig, taken from the Sorbian name lipsk.[16] The Croatian currency, kuna, consists of 100 lipa (Tilia). "Lipa" was also a proposed name for Slovenian currency in 1990, however the name "tolar" ultimately prevailed.[17] In the Slavic Orthodox Christian world, limewood was the preferred wood for panel icon painting. The icons by the hand of Andrei Rublev, including the Holy Trinity (Hospitality of Abraham), and The Savior, now in the State Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow, are painted on linden wood. Its wood was chosen for its ability to be sanded very smooth and for its resistance to warping once seasoned. The southern Slovenian village of "Lipica" signifies little Lime tree and has given its name to the Lipizzan horse breed. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilia#Slavic_mythology

http://www.poloniamusic.com/Folk_Lipka_Zielona.html  more about the Lipa tree and some Polish folks songs that tell about it.

http://www.angelfire.com/mi4/polcrt/Linden.html  THE LINDEN TREE – Lore and Significance

Written by Margaret Odrowaz-Sypniewska

Ode to a Linden Tree

Dear Guest, sit down beneath my leaves and take your rest.

The sun will not strike you there, I do insist,

Though it beat from its noonday height, and its direct rays

Should pierce such scattered shade as a tree bestows.

There, a cooling breeze is always blowing from the field;

There, nightingales and blackbirds their tuneful tales unfold.

It’s from my fragrant blossom that the timeless bees

Take the honey, which later ennobles your lordly feasts;

Whilst I, by my soft murmurs, can easily contrive

That gentle sleep should overtake the unsuspecting fugitive.

It’s true, I bear no fruit; but in my master’s eyes

My worth exceeds the richest scion of the Hesperides.

Written by "Squire of Czamolas" – a vernacular poet

http://www.angelfire.com/mi4/polcrt/PolNobility.html

Липа  lipa = Linden Tree

The English suffix -nik is of Slavic origin. It approximately corresponds to the suffix "-er" and nearly always denotes an agent noun (that is, it describes a person related to the thing, state, habit, or action described by the word to which the suffix is attached).[1] In the cases where a native English language coinage may occur, the "-nik"-word often bears an ironic connotation.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/-nik

clip_image002

Lipnik Boulevard…. But no trees at all now, but maybe once upon a time. 

clip_image003

I noticed this sign which says Lipnik in Cyrillic though I have no idea what the top word is.

One day we set off for the Transportation Museum because that attracted Rick and Randal. 

clip_image004

The city of Rousse is the place where you will find Bulgaria’s only transportation museum. The national museum of transport was created to commemorate 100 years since the existence of railway transportation in Bulgaria. It is located in the building of the first city railway station and opened doors for visitors in 1996.

     Rousse’s railway station, where the museum is located, was constructed from 1864 to 1866. The railway station functioned until 1954. Today, the station has been recognized as historic monument.

The three museum sections present the development of railway transportation, shipping and communications.

Communication technologies, photographs, documents, personal belongings of transportation workers and slogans will show you the history of transportation in Bulgaria.

Some of the exhibit items are unique. You will see Sultanie, the special car that sultan Abdul Aziz specially ordered in 1866. The car impresses with its rich decorations. Its color is blue and the exterior is covered in ornaments.

Another interesting exhibition items is one of the first locomotives imported in Bulgaria. It was created in Newcastle in 1866 and was used for the transportation of passengers from Rousse to Varna until 1901.

You will also see the car that tsar Ferdinand ordered. The museum also preserves the first movable television station in Bulgaria.

The museum library contains tons of information about transportation in Bulgaria through the years.

The national transportation museum is situated on the bank of the Danube, at Bratia Obretenovi 5 street. It welcomes visitors each day apart from Sunday from 9 am to 5.30 pm.

http://www.bulgariainside.eu/

clip_image005

clip_image006

Another interesting exhibition items is one of the first locomotives imported in Bulgaria. It was created in Newcastle in 1866 and was used for the transportation of passengers from Rousse to Varna until 1901.

clip_image007

I think I can, I think I can….

clip_image008 clip_image009

Some of the exhibit items are unique. You will see Sultanie, the special car that sultan Abdul Aziz specially ordered in 1866. The car impresses with its rich decorations. Its color is blue and the exterior is covered in ornaments.

clip_image010 clip_image011

We had to knock on the door of the museum to gain attention of the custodian who looked to be living in part of the museum.  She waved to us from her window, changed her clothes and then came to let us in and give us a tour.

Here she is showing us how tea was served to Abdul Aziz and where he and his guests could relax and smoke their water pipe.

clip_image012 clip_image013

Not so private but here’s the tollette and wash basin.

I had some coins so dropped them into the bucket in the sink.  Our guide motioned for me to take them back out so I did.  Then she motioned for me to put them back in.  So I did.  Then 3 times she poured water from the pitcher over my hands  which went down the drain ( coint bucket had been moved.)

I have no idea why but there you have it.

clip_image014 clip_image015

You will also see the car that tsar Ferdinand ordered.

The discrepancy between rich and poor may be in part what caused some of the problems leading to WW 1.

clip_image016clip_image017

Oriental,  Central (time in Europe) and Occidental time.  The Occident is the west so both have the same time showing on the clock.

clip_image018

Air pressure gage for the brake on the side of the car

clip_image019 clip_image020

I always wanted to do this.  Rick and Mary pulled one way down the short piece of track and Randal and I pulled us back. 

clip_image021

Very useful clock in the station museum

clip_image022

Men connected to Bulgarian transportation history.

I thought these caricature plates were quite funny though I’m not sure they were intended to be seen that way.

We all enjoyed our visit to the museum.  And that was after a really long hike trying to find it as our map made it look someplace it really wasn’t.  It was also mid-afternoon and really hot.  But the blog below is probably correct.  The writer actually wasn’t lucky enough to rouse the guide so never got into the museum or had the tour.”

“The museum is hosted in the old railways station of Ruse, and it was formerly known as National Transport Museum, founded in June 1954. However, this denomination was clearly ambitious, as railways was basically the single subject of the museum. It was appropriately renamed National Museum of Railway Transport and Communications on the 26th June 1996, commemorating the 100th anniversary of railroads in Bulgaria, and by then the building was declared a historical landmark.

Among the exhibits outside the building are more than ten steam engines, including the oldest steam engine preserved in the country, built in England in 1865, and various railroad carriages, including the personal carriages of the Kings Ferdinand of Bulgaria and Boris III of Bulgaria, as well as the carriage of the Turkish sultan of 1866.

Sadly, as of 2007 the museum is underfunded, the heritage engines and railcars are stored in the open air without almost any maintenance, and the humid air from the nearby Danube accelerates significantly their decay. “ http://www.waymarking.com/

Oryahovo

Republica Restaurant

Tulcea, Romania

Salut

    As I sit here typing I can hear the restaurant diners just next to the boat.  They’re up on flybridge level so not looking in our windows or having us watch them eat.  It’s 10 pm but I guess people wait for the heat to abate before going out to dinner.  A ferry docks just behind our boat at a small terminal.  Noise and motion aren’t bothersome, but the fumes are a bit.  So it goes.

   We left Vidin and stopped next for the night in Oryahovo which led to more question I’d like to answer some day when I have A REAL LIBRARY.  Stopping at places off the tourist map are really the most interesting in some ways. 

Ru

Oryahovo

“ High up in a picturesque landscape of cornfields and vineyards, the town of Oryahovo (km 678) is an agricultural center.”  JPM Danube Guide.   Rick and Mary said the town was once a coal loading station under the communist.  Ships would bring the coal which would then be loaded onto trains.  But the coal wasn’t wet down so the coal dust  maybe be what forced the people to leave the homes closest to the Danube.  I haven’t been able to find info about that online there are lots of abandoned buildings along the river.

But I did find this about neighborhoods threatened by landslides. 

In Bulgaria, losses of water come to 57 per cent. Refuse sites take up more than 200 000 decares of territory. More than 900 landslides have been caused. I can give you an example. The town of Oryahovo was one of the worst damaged by last year’s floods. In the town, although there was a lack of funding, the state managed to build a drainage system 50 years ago. The system was so effective that for many years Oryahovo had no problems with floods and landslides. Until 1990. Then the unit that maintained the system was closed. A few years later, the problems deepened, and last year a whole neighborhood was threatened by a landslide. This is only one example and there are thousands.

http://sofiaecho.com/

So I don’t know but the roads closest to the river at the bottom of the town all seem to be empty or overgrown. 

  We went for a late afternoon walk, stopped for a cold drink, bought a few groceries, and returned to DoraMac.  Oryahovo isn’t a place cruise ships would stop but it was a lovely place to spend the afternoon.

clip_image001

When we arrived at Oryahovo, a Dutch couple we’d met several stop along the way was already there.

We paid the “tie up fee” and then took a walk up into town to stretch our legs. I have no comments to go with most of the photos.  It’s just what we saw during our walk.

clip_image002

clip_image003

Both of these photos were taken just up hill from the Danube.  All were abandoned.

clip_image004

Higher up-hill were small homes with big gardens.

clip_image005

Lots of lovely gardens alongside most of the houses closer to town.

clip_image006

clip_image007

St. George’s Church (1837) in the National-Revival style, where old printed church literature from Russia is preserved.   http://trakia-tours.com/oryahovo-guide-70.html

clip_image008 clip_image009

We stopped for a cold drink.

I went inside to pick out my drink not being able to read the menu at all.  Mary thought she ordered lemonade but received a Rattler which is beer and lemonade mixed.  Randal and Rick got the beer they ordered.  But we couldn’t figure out how to order any snacks.  I should have had my trusty picture dictionary which now is in my backpack.

clip_image010

clip_image011

Once upon a time it must have been quite lovely

clip_image012

clip_image013

clip_image014

clip_image015

Big and concrete and blah = Communist era architecture for the Administrative Center

clip_image016

clip_image017

clip_image018

We were broiling but these men were running around playing “football.”

We took this lovely road back down the hill from town

clip_image019 clip_image020

Before Oblivion Comes, a book by BNR journalist Rumen Stoichkov 

“ The asset of the new book is that it takes readers astray from traditional tourist routes. ….

In the foreword to the book Rumen Stoichkov writes, “In my reports I have always tried to single out a problem that troubles a certain village such as unemployment, bad roads, poverty, a church about to collapse, a cultural center, school or nursery school about to close doors, etc. This entails depopulation, and eventually, the disappearance of the place from the map of Bulgaria. Well, as I traveled to make my reports, there was positive information too. It came from legends, the local natural scenery and traditions, the folklore and the wisdom of the local people.”

http://bnr.bg/

(Oryahovo is one of the places visited and it would be interesting to know if it was a positive or negative.)

Often getting from the boat to land is an interesting process.  These photos show us returning to DoraMac from town.  We walked into the official port area and then over a ramp to the barge.  Then we walked carefully along the barge edge before climbing back onto DoraMac.

clip_image021

clip_image022

clip_image023

clip_image024

clip_image025

clip_image026

clip_image027

The people of Vidin and final Vidin email

Republica Restaurant

Tulcea, Romania

Salut,

The final Vidin email but in some ways the most important.  It shows the people of Vidin.  I truly wish them well.

Ru

clip_image001

These teen boys looked like members of a track team out for practice

clip_image002

Time Out!  He kept looking toward a lady near-by but not in a worried way, rather in a, “I’m still mad but isn’t this long enough.”  He was standing in the shade and looked well cared for and quite stylish so I didn’t worry.  Sometimes you just need a time out!  Or maybe he took himself over there tired of waiting for his mom or grandmother, the two women talking just near where he was standing. 

clip_image003

The older brother was quite bored but the younger seemed entertained just being with his older brother.  They were sitting in the park just across from where we’d stopped for a cold drink and a snack.

The next bench had an older woman and young girls who seemed to be enjoying a chat; the boys were a bit restive but very well behaved.

The boys probably would have loved this contaption which we’d seen earlier on our walk.

clip_image004

clip_image005

Not me; not in a million years!

clip_image006

They had been holding hands but I missed that shot.

We saw lots of families strolling along in the park.  We saw teens and older people.  All age groups seemed to be together.

clip_image007

A lovely sculpture was part of the art museum’s collection. 

clip_image008clip_image009

clip_image010

Traditional wood carving was being done by this man just next to the fortress ticket booth.  There was a small stand selling “traditional” items.  Randal bought 2 bars of rose soap.  Bulgaria, like Turkey, is a big exporter of rose based products.

clip_image011

This couple was enjoying dinner at the restaurant barge next to where we were tied up.  It was owned by the same man so we went for dinner.  My fish soup was excellent!  Luckily DoraMac was close by so when it started to rain Rick walked back to close the hatches.

clip_image012 clip_image013

Emilia who attends the prestigious National Academy of Art in Sofia and the ladies from    Sofia University "Saint Kliment Ohridski",  conducting a survey for the mayor of Vidin.

Life under Communism and how people look back at that sometimes with nostalgia.  Article below…..

“The Germans have a great expression for life in a competitive, dog-eat-dog country. They call it an “elbow society.” People in capitalist countries have sharper elbows, and they use them more readily.

     In Bulgaria, some people look back on their time during communism, the time before the introduction of the elbow society, as the “calm life.” You generally didn’t have to work hard. You didn’t have to worry about losing your job. Life was simpler. There was only one kind of washing powder. You could count the number of television channels on one hand.

     In retrospect, the calm life has a certain appeal. If you’re out of work or going crazy because of multitasking or feel the hot breath of a competitor on your neck, the old days begin to feel almost like a holiday: boring perhaps but not so stressful. Of course, as with all nostalgia, these memories are selective. The painful memories tend to be suppressed.

Petya Kabakchieva is a sociologist who has done research on a number of social issues in Bulgaria. One of her first topics was social status associated with work

“People knew that their salary didn’t depend on their effort,” she told me over dinner at a very good restaurant in Sofia with an old Art Nouveau interior. “They worked, but they didn’t invest a lot of effort. In my research after the change, a lot of people told me, ‘Now we will work with pleasure, because we are working for ourselves. We will not depend on the state salary.’ At the moment the opposite is happening — a lot of people are feeling nostalgic about the fixed salary, because there is a lot of unemployment and poverty. This means that something in the so-called ‘transition’ went wrong.”

She has done research on a number of fascinating topics: on the construction of memories, on temporary migrants, on Roma integration. We talked about her sociological investigations as well as her own personal experiences and her evolving understanding of “the People,” from her time in Leipzig in 1989 to her view of Bulgarian society today.

The Interview

When you look back to 1989 and everything that has changed between now and then, how would you evaluate that on a scale of 1 to 10, with one being most dissatisfied and 10 most satisfied?

     Those are the questions I hate the most! It is very difficult to evaluate your memories, experience, and feelings on a scale…Anyway, I’ll try to answer. Usually, at least in Bulgaria, people say  5. But you cannot interpret this number, because it means, simply, “I don’t know.” So, I would say 7.

Same scale, same period: how would you evaluate your own life?

10.

When you look into the near future, where do you think Bulgaria will be in 1-2 years, on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being most pessimistic and 10 being most optimistic?

     That’s not an easy question. There are different scenarios. In one scenario, Bulgaria’s future place would be 6-7. But in another scenario, I would evaluate it as 2-3. It depends on how the politicians cope with the situation. The main factor to support the positive evaluation is the European Union. I strongly hope that this current crisis will not lead to a terrible collapse of the EU. The EU is a disciplining factor for Bulgaria. The other factor for positive development is reforms in education. A lot of our children are now not compatible with the job market.  The migration factor is also very important: young people are leaving Bulgaria. If we invest in people, young people will stay here and we’ll have a new generation of politicians and bureaucrats to rule this country. If this does not happen, then I’m afraid I’d give the lower grade.  (In Silistra we were told by the young manager of the Hotel Dustra that many young people have left Silistra because they want better opportunities.)

Deep down in your heart, which scenario do you think is more likely?

Something in the middle. Democracy is already a norm in this country. It doesn’t function very well, but it doesn’t function very well anywhere in the world. I don’t think we’ll go downward; I don’t believe in the worst-case scenario. A lot of things have happened already in Bulgaria. Even if we have an authoritarian regime, which could happen, I’ll stick with 4.5

Do you remember where you were when you heard about the fall of the Berlin Wall, and what feeling you had, and whether you started thinking about its implications for Bulgaria?

     I’d been in Leipzig, and I’d seen the large demonstrations there. I suddenly understood what “people” means. Until then, “people” was just something very abstract, like in the textbook. I saw those thousands of people on the square, and I was very enthusiastic. Later I learned about the fall of Todor Zhivkov on the train back to Bulgaria. In a way I expected it because I’d seen what was happening in Germany. It was an enormous joy.

     At the end of 1989, everyone, even Communists, believed that something would change and we were going to another stage of our society. Unlike the Soviet Union, which had passed through glasnost and perestroika, the late 1980s were very hard for Bulgaria — like Romania where there was hunger and Ceausescu was totally mad. We didn’t have hunger like in Romania, but there were problems with electricity, with food. In Bulgaria, in the late 1980s, Zhivkov didn’t even pretend that he was making something like glasnost and perestroika.

     The repressions were severe, starting with the so-called “Revival process.” One of the most important events in modern Bulgarian history was the forced re-naming of Bulgarian Muslims and Turks. This was the sign that this state was still totalitarian. The main thesis of this “Revival process” was that the ethnic Turks were Bulgarians who had been turned into Turks during Ottoman rule. That’s why the name “Revival” had been invented – as a return to their “true” identity. No one thought about how the ethnic Turks might feel about this in the 20th century. It was a terrible aggression against the very personality of these people. I call it “symbolic genocide,” an attempt to delete the names and identities of 800,000 people. I wonder how the people who carried out this “Revival” imagined that it could happen.

     It was the late 1980s. Most Bulgarians, including me, didn’t understand what was happening. My son was born during that period, and I was busy taking care of him. The Communist Party started to understand that it’s not so easy to repress so many people. And the repressions started to grow. There was resistance, mostly carried out by ethnic Turks who resisted this renaming.

     But some Bulgarians also started to talk about these issues in Sofia, in Plovdiv. Zheliu Zhelev’s book Fascism came out in 1982. No one can call this a dissident book now, but back then people treated it as a revolutionary act. The Communist Party and the Secret service were searching for signs of resistance and tried to control our minds all the time. But a new world had started to appear. It was mostly in people’s imaginations, and it was not so easy to control. We started to believe that we could live a different way. Everybody perceived this change in November 1989 as something that would change our lives,  that would push society in a totally different direction.

     It wasn’t expected. It was wanted, but it wasn’t expected. It was a very strange feeling. It wasn’t like Poland. In Poland they knew it would come since the early 1980s. But in Bulgaria, it wasn’t expected. Some people said that we should die with Todor Zhivkov in power and Lili Ivanova singing. I’m glad that Lili Ivanova is still singing, and Todor Zhivkov is no longer in power!

You mentioned that the path of development for the countries in the region was very different after 1989. I’m curious whether it pushed you personally onto a different trajectory.

     Definitely. Actually, my career started after 1989. Before 1989, we had no freedom to write. When I was working at that institute for youth studies, our main job was to conduct research and write reports in a way that didn’t provoke the interest of functionaries in youth activities. We tried to present the situation as normal: yes, the youth have subcultures, but they’re not dangerous. This wasn’t real research. We had a lot of parties. We drank a lot. But we didn’t really work.

     Only after 1989 did I understood what work meant. That’s when we started to make serious surveys and to write what we thought and not just cite party documents. That’s when we began to work for ourselves.

     One of my favorite topics is what I call the “ideological construction of social status.” The Bulgarian Communist Party (BCP) manipulated status, because the salaries had been fixed according to the BCP vision about the priority of one branch over others and some occupations over others. My study showed that the most prestigious professions were low-paid, like doctors and teachers. The well-paid professions like those of construction workers and miners, had low prestige.

     I did some sociological research on that. People knew that their salary didn’t depend on their effort. They worked, but they didn’t invest a lot of effort. In my research after the change, a lot of people told me, “Now we will work with pleasure, because we are working for ourselves. We will not depend on the state salary.” At the moment the opposite is happening — a lot of people are feeling nostalgic about the fixed salary, because there is a lot of unemployment and poverty. This means that something in the so-called “transition” went wrong.

     Fortunately, this is not my case. I started to travel, go to conferences, meet people from different countries. The comparisons between countries were very interesting. Travel: that was one of the biggest changes. I can’t say that I was poor before the change. My family was part of the elite. I can’t complain about the conditions of my life. But what was lacking for me before 1989 was the feeling of freedom: to talk about what you think, to write what you think. Yes, after 1989 work became a pleasure for me.

You mentioned that your students have difficulty imagining what life what was like before 1989. Can you give me examples?

     Take the example of the renaming of the ethnic Turks. When we had a meeting at the university, where party functionaries explained to us the “important” meaning of this process, the bravest thing some of the university professors had done was to ask a question: what’s happening? Why are you doing this? The students can’t imagine this. “Why didn’t you protest?” they ask. “Why didn’t you go out on the street?” They can’t imagine our fear and self-censorship.

     They can’t understand that people were sent to labor camps because they had listened to Western music and dressed a different way. The situation here was not as bad as in the Soviet Union, but we had such camps, Belene being the most famous. The students can’t imagine that someone could be punished for dressing differently. They can’t understand the hidden, Aesopic language used in the works of artists and dissidents that was perceived by us, people who had “lived socialism,” as a kind of resistance.

     There is a very good book by my colleague Pepka Boyadzhieva called Social Engineering – about higher education in Communist Bulgaria. She studied the papers written by the Fatherland Committees concerning the admission of students to higher education. There were sentences in those reports like: she has a “bourgeois look,” he has a “bourgeois gesture.” This is unimaginable even to me. How can someone decide if you should be a student or not because of your gestures? This was the late 1940s and early 1950s. After that, it was not so strict.

Do they see any relevance from that period of time to their lives today? Or is it just ancient history happening in a different country?

     They cannot imagine this life, but at the same time — and we conducted research on this — they believe the family stories. Their perception of communism is mostly from these family stories. A lot of Bulgarians, mostly from villages and small towns, now have a growing nostalgia toward the Communist regime. It’s based on the memories of the security of their lives back then.

     My son did some research on the memory of the renaming of ethnic Turks. Even some of those who suffered this humiliation remember with some nostalgia the security of life: “we had jobs then,” they remember, “We could go to the seaside then. Yes, we did not have lots of opportunities to travel and eat different types of food, but we had a calm life.” The following phrase had become a cliché: now there is everything in the shops and lots of opportunities, but we don’t have the money to take advantage of them, so we feel worse than in the Communist time.

So, yes, they can’t imagine that life. On the other hand, they have this quite simplified notion of communism presented to them by their grandfathers and mostly by their grandmothers, and probably by some of their parents. It’s true that Bulgaria went through a very heavy deindustrialization. A lot of people are not living so well right now. The bad things are forgotten. That’s normal from a psychological point of view. They’re forgetting the lack of freedom, the poor life, the long queues, seven-year wait to get a car. They just remember the security of yesterday compared to the insecurity of today.

You gave the mark of 10 when talking about your own personal life. But are you ever tempted by this kind of nostalgia?

     No. I do insist that I had an excellent life before 1989 compared to the life of a lot of people. We lived really quite well. My father got good money. He was famous as an actor. I studied in good schools: due to my efforts, not due to my father. After the changes, some of my schoolmates said to me, “You can’t imagine how poor we felt compared to you.” That’s when I reflected on the inequalities under communism. I had a very good life before 1989 and I do not regret my life before the changes, but I do feel better now because of the feeling of freedom, how I feel about my work, the sense that something depends on me.

    The number of young people leaving Bulgaria is quite large. Is it just a question of economic opportunity, or are there other factors behind people leaving?

     One of the problems of the liberal model is that everything is calculated in money. Especially social scientists, in my field of sociology, believe that money is a very important push-pull factor. I don’t think this is so. Research shows that the people going abroad have middle status. It’s not the wealthiest or the poorest but, rather, the people who have a relatively good salary and even belong to prestigious professions. A lot of teachers, for instance, are going abroad; even ex-mayors have gone abroad.

    My research is on temporary migrants. According to this research, it looks like people are going abroad in search of a better life but also to prove themselves. Bulgaria is too small to prove one’s self. They want to measure themselves in other countries, to try their strengths and capacities in different situations. This is their narrative. When I went abroad, I also rediscovered myself when I suddenly found that I could manage quite well. Young people are going abroad looking for better chances, better self-realization. Another important factor is that people want to live in a more regulated environment where the law means something and institutions work well.

     Recently I found another motive among my students. They want to live in a more tolerant environment. I wonder whether Austria is really an example of tolerance, but my students feel that way. They want to live in a more multicultural environment. Bulgaria is very provincial. It’s like a small village where everyone knows everyone else, and different people are rejected. They want to live in a mixed and more colorful environment.

     But Bulgaria is starting to open up to different people. And we will get used to living with different people. My son throws parties in the very small town where my grandmother’s house is located. He invites lots of friends. The noise is unbelievable until early morning. When I go to the town after these parties, I expect that I’ll get attacked because the party was very noisy, the neighbors couldn’t sleep. But they said, “No, no, it’s okay. It’s just young people. But Petya, do you know who they invited? A black man!” They saw face to face an African-American. So, you can imagine how closed this society was and still is. For people who are used to traveling, to going to different universities, Bulgaria now looks too white, filled with white people.

Tell me about the research you’re doing now.

     I’ve just concluded some research on Roma integration. But that’s a long discussion. I dream of doing research on the children of temporary immigrants. Usually migration is viewed through the eyes of those who left rather than those who were left behind. I’ve found terrible cases of children who stayed here and made great efforts to attract the attention of parents who had gone to work for money in other countries. Those children stayed here, and some of them — or most of them, we don’t know how many — engaged in criminal acts. For me, it’s very interesting to look at the fates of these children. The striving for upward mobility, the attempt to make a career, often comes at the price of the downward mobility of your children. Here money is not the only thing. Caring for your children is also very important. I haven’t started this research because I haven’t found the money for it. But this is my dream.

     I’ve done research on nationalism, attitudes toward Roma and foreigners, discrimination, migration issues. Before, I did social inequalities under communism and the memory of social inequality during communism.

I’m most interested in the studies on nationalism, discrimination, and attitudes toward Roma. But let’s start with your research on nationalism.

     I was looking at the type of national identity Bulgarians have, whether ethnic or civic. So, I was looking at the feeling of nationalism versus the feeling of citizenship. Our education and the public debate should concentrate on civic national identity, on political national identity, on civic participation. Unfortunately, national identity for ethnic Bulgarians, not Turks or Roma, is built around ethnic identity — historical notions about our glorious past, which presupposes the enemies we fought against. It’s quite worrisome.

     This has two important consequences. First, if you think of the nation only in ethnic terms, you exclude Roma, Turks and all the people coming here from other countries. In this multicultural environment, this is quite old-fashioned, and it could become dangerous.

     Second, it’s commonly accepted by Bulgarians that our country is very beautiful but our state is corrupt and bad. I’m afraid there is some truth in this statement. But it is also dangerous. This belief that our state is nothing and should not be respected leads to people not wanting to participate in public life. They don’t think anything depends on them. If the state is corrupt, we should try to make a life only for ourselves and our family. There is a large disappointment in the functioning of democratic institutions. And when they think of Bulgarian statehood, they imagine the glorious state of the khans of the 9th century or the glorious dreams of the fighters for independent Bulgaria who wanted a strong and large Bulgaria.

     This dream for the strong state is usually associated with a strong person. It worries me that the political is becoming more personified, that people are thinking about politics in terms of persons. This combination of ethnic nationalism and the desire for a strong state personified by a strong figure is not a good path for the future.

In Russian there are two words for Russian — russky and rossissky — to distinguish between ethnically Russian and Russian citizens. And in Bulgarian?

     There’s just one word: Bulgarsko. Before, our politicians spoke in terms of “people.” Populism plays with this notion of people: ein volk, ein fuhrer. I do not accept the word “people.” There is no collective body. There are different persons, with different interests. In English, there is “we, the people,” and there is a feeling of diversity in “we.” In Bulgarian, like in German, there is no “we.” People are one collective body — narod.

     Now our politicians are starting to use the term “citizens.” It’s a good sign. But I’m afraid that it’s a bit of a political manipulation to pretend that their parties are not parties but civic movements. Again it’s a matter of trying to convince us that they are representing all the citizens. So, the word “people” as in the “people’s republic of Bulgaria” has changed to: “we are working for you, all the citizens of Bulgaria.” In one way, it’s important to have this word “citizens.” On the other hand, it’s not good that citizens are thought of as one unity, not as different citizens.

It’s interesting that you say you don’t believe in “people.” But one of the first things you said is that after Leipzig, you understood for the first time what “people” meant and you were enthusiastic.

     Yes, you’re right. You got me! Yes, I understood what “people” meant and I was enthusiastic about it. But I was also frightened. It means revolution. It means people coming together to destroy something. Revolution is a little bit dangerous. I’m more of a pacifist. I understood what “people” meant at that moment because before “people” was a cliché, an abstraction: all of us believing in the bright future of communism. Suddenly this abstraction came alive, all rejecting the communist “here and now.” Thousands of people shouting on the square “Wir sind das Volk” — Das Volk or Narod or the People – and acting as a fist is quite frightening. It’s preferable to have different groups with different interests with different religions, different skin colors, who can sit and talk together. I prefer differences that can be negotiated or at least debated. The essence of democracy is in this. We should try to resolve our differences by trying to understand each other.

I’m curious about the conclusions of the Roma and discrimination study.

     A lot of what we found was evidence of racist attitudes. About one-third of respondents answered that they could not accept for a colleague or a boss a person of Roma origin or African-American origin. So, it’s not good. There are strong discriminatory attitudes toward Roma. But what is new is that Roma are now starting to be perceived as a privileged group, due to the fact that there is a lot of talk about strategies for Roma integration. That’s quite a paradox: for a vulnerable group to be perceived as a privileged group.

     It is true, that there are a lot of public strategies about Roma integration, but nothing is happening. There are only words. At the moment any talk of affirmative action is not helpful. We should talk in terms of everybody having equal rights. This libertarian discourse is very useful here because Bulgarians do not believe that Roma are discriminated against in their normal lives, in their basic human rights – in employment, housing, health care. We should speak of ensuring a normal quality of life for poor people.

Usually Roma are associated with criminality. But people forget that organized crime, another hot issue, is the most important problem in Bulgaria. And organized crime is not related to Roma.

     It’s a cliché to say that we should start to do something, not only to talk about things. But in a way, this is the case. I think we need to start with education. Roma children should be in the schools and they should receive a good education to overcome poverty.

Sofia, September 25, 2012 http://www.johnfeffer.com/remembering-the-calm-life/

Vidin Town

Republika Restaurant

Tulcea, Romania

Vidin had a mix of architectural styles and some interesting food choices.

Ru

Vidin   The Town

Vidin was big enough to be entertaining but small enough that you could do it all on foot.  Not that we did it all.  I’d like to be able to click my heels together and be back for one more day to explore the park that is on the far side of town. 

Some recent Vidin developments.

The New York Times

June 14, 2013

New Bridge Over Danube Helps Dissolve Old Enmities

By MATTHEW BRUNWASSER

      VIDIN, Bulgaria — The European Union hardly basks in popular favor these days. But in this isolated corner of the bloc’s poorest periphery, leaders and locals on Friday celebrated a tangible benefit of membership — a $340 million bridge spanning the Danube that should help strengthen trade and ties between two impoverished members, Romania and Bulgaria.

     Despite much history and present poverty in common, these two Balkan nations had to be prodded into negotiating the construction of the bridge, which began in 2007. Both prime ministers and the European Union’s commissioner for regional policy, Johannes Hahn, attended the opening ceremony, where Plamen Oresharski, the head of Bulgaria’s new government, joked: “I am sorry that this bridge has such a long history. We heard that the Romans built faster.”

     Romania, population roughly 22 million, and Bulgaria, about 7 million, share a 290-mile border along the Danube that, until Friday, had just one bridge connecting them.

     Under Communism, neither country was rich, but the collapse of their state-run economies deepened the impoverishment on both sides of the river and hastened depopulation. Vidin, which in bygone Ottoman days was a thriving river port, shipping agricultural produce along the Danube, has suffered the worst depopulation in Bulgaria, losing 16 percent of its residents in 2012 alone.

     Across the river, the Romanian town of Calafat, population 18,000, has fared little better. Its central pedestrian street, recently fitted with new paving stones, remains sleepy.

     Yet it took until 2000 for European officials to coax the two very different Balkan nations into talking about the bridge, largely because they could not agree on a location for it.

     Romanians speak a language they prize as descended from Latin roots; Bulgarians are Slavs and in Communist times were derided as being so close to Moscow as to be the virtual 16th republic of the Soviet Union. Each country adheres to its own Orthodox church, and for decades were simply disinterested in each other.

     Their shared status in European development post-cold war has gradually brought them closer, as they have discovered more in common.

     Both joined NATO in 2004, and the European Union in 2007. European Union officials have since criticized both nations, the bloc’s poorest members, for corruption and organized crime — some of which originated in the Vidin region in the 1990s, when criminals helped smuggle oil and other goods into neighboring Serbia, which was under United Nations sanctions for its role in the Balkan wars that broke up the former Yugoslavia.

     “The illusions we created about what enemies the Romanians are and how different they are have disappeared into dust,” Gergo Gergov, the 35-year-old mayor of Vidin, said in an interview in the 15-story, Communist-era municipal building, by far Vidin’s tallest.

     “We have stopped acting like we are locked up alone,” Mr. Gergov observed. “We have seen that there are other people around and have started to get to know them, to interact, trade, travel and work with each other.”

     The bridge, he said, is “the biggest event in the modern history of the region.”

Vidin — which has a population of 63,000, down from 90,000 during the Communist era — could use the help. Its center, replete with decaying architecture from 19th-century glory days, offers some exotic sights for visitors who disembark every summer day from luxurious Danube cruise ships. A balmy river breeze spreads the sweet smell of linden through the city. But Vidin remains the poorest city and region in Bulgaria, the European Union’s poorest member state with average monthly wages of 400 euros, or about $574.

     The common market offered by European Union membership has catalyzed trade and business: trade between Bulgaria and Romania totaled 3.5 billion euros, or about $5 billion, in 2011, up from 900 million euros in 2005, about $1.09 billion at the time.

     Ovidiu Cernatescu, 45, a Romanian from Craiova who started a metal construction business in Vidin two years ago and sells 90 percent of his product in Romania, is confident of further expansion and relishes the protection offered by European Union trade rules rather than capriciously applied local justice. “I’ve been waiting for the bridge like the coming of Jesus Christ,” he said.

     Ten years ago, Mr. Cernatescu said, Romanians had heard only negative news about Bulgaria as a country where former Communists still held sway. Now, Romanians enjoy it as a cheaper, nice place to visit and trade, he said.

     Bulgarian businesspeople in the region like Kostas Grivov, who employs 100 workers in two factories processing nuts and dried fruit, are expecting a short-term boom in tourism, shopping and investment.

     Mr. Grivov, who is also Romania’s honorary consul in Vidin, said the bridge would halve his transport costs and greatly increase the speed and reliability of supplies and deliveries. The sole way to Romania had been an unreliable ferry that crosses only when it fills with cars.

     In Calafat, the deputy mayor, Dorel Mituletu, sits in a restored late-19th century mansion that might be the envy of his Vidin counterparts. He welcomed the bridge, but said he feared merchants in his town would lose out to Vidin, where prices are 20 to 25 percent lower.

     He also voiced concern about what he saw as difficult and complex procedures required to secure European Union financing for local projects — processes that have become stricter because of concerns about corruption and mismanagement.

     “Romanians are not accustomed to begging,” he said. “Despite what the rest of Europe might think of us.”

http://www.nytimes.com/

Interestingly we couldn’t get to Calafat because the ferry stopped running when the bridge was completed but there were no buses across.  You had to take a taxi.  We opted to stay in Vidin instead of making the trip across. 

http://dunavision.eu/  is a story about two people making a change for the better in Vidin.  I’m so sorry we didn’t eat in the café mentioned but I only just read about it now.  But if you are ever in Vidin…..

12 March 2014

The Britons who swap the UK for the poorest part of the EUMatthew Price

By Matthew Price

What’s it like to live in the poorest part of the poorest country in the European Union?

http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-26324564

clip_image001

DoraMac is the orange bit on the water.  We pretty much stayed between the water and the orange line. 

clip_image002

Chicago hot dog in Vidin Bulgaria.

clip_image003

Served in a thick sort of pita with fries on top.  Rick and Randal each ate one.  Mary and I took a pass because it was after lunch and too early for dinner and too big for a snack. 

clip_image004

Thanks to our Alternative Art/Street Art walking tour in London we’re all more supportive of street art.  I found it interesting that the message was written in English.

clip_image005

There was a EURO store where things cost a Euro.  The building next door was more interesting to me.

clip_image006

Lots of lovely detail now falling to bits.

clip_image007

clip_image008

clip_image009

You saw lots of this lovely architecture just waiting for some help.  They need an influx of Yuppies with money from somewhere.

After some walking around it was time for a cold drink break.  Mary ordered a white frappe but Rick, Randal and I ordered iced coffee.

clip_image010

Amazingly this turned out not to be the strangest iced coffee of the trip.  This was a cup of strong hot coffee with a small scoop of vanilla ice cream floating in it.  So far it is the iced coffee in Silistra that wins the prize; at least as I’m typing now.  That was a blob of frozen iced coffee crystals floating in Coca Cola. A total sugar and caffeine shock.  I had a few bites of the “iced coffee crystals” and Randal drank the rest of the Coke that was served with the “iced coffee.”  Randal had ordered cappuccino but it tasted more like hot chocolate.   You just never know.

There was a small mall with a grocery store in the town center.  We went in for the basics : bread, fruit and vegetables and wine and cookies.  We’ve been eating out more because the dollar is strong against these currencies so restaurants are much more reasonable than they were further west.

clip_image011

Varieties of what looked like caviar and oddly we bought none.  If we see it again, I will.  At least it looks like caviar?

clip_image012

City Hall is the tallest building in Vidin.

clip_image013

Obviously built without central air.

clip_image014

clip_image015

I think this is the municipal building and the law courts in Bdintsy Square.

Somewhere in here is the Mihalaki Georgiev Regional Library,  but I couldn’t find it. 

The stairwells were dark and each room was closed to the hall way to keep the AC  in.  I walked up all of the flights and finally met a woman who tried to find someone who spoke English/ or wanted to come help.  No one did so that was that. 

clip_image016

The second part of the word ends in teka and it looks like a book so I guessed the library was inside someplace.

clip_image017

Some newer buildings mixed with old.  But all of it looks a bit down on its luck though it’s hard to look totally upbeat when it’s broiling hot out.

Historic Vidin

Republica Restaurant Barge

Tulcea, Romania

Salut,

We’re really getting close to the end of our passage to the Black Sea.  Tonight we’re in Tulcea, the largest town of the Delta.  This email is part 2 of Vidin, Bulgaria so many stops back now that I’m never sure what country I’m in after a bit.  As I said in the first email, I really liked Vidin. 

Ru

Historic Vidin 

“Vidin was conclusively liberated from Ottoman authority on March 25/April 6, 1878,”  says my Municipality of Vidin Monuments of Culture Guide. 

A bit of Bulgarian history…

“The Bulgars, a Central Asian Turkic tribe, merged with the local Slavic inhabitants in the late 7th century to form the first Bulgarian state. In succeeding centuries, Bulgaria struggled with the Byzantine Empire to assert its place in the Balkans, but by the end of the 14th century the country was overrun by the Ottoman Turks. Northern Bulgaria attained autonomy in 1878 and all of Bulgaria became independent from the Ottoman Empire in 1908. Having fought on the losing side in both World Wars, Bulgaria fell within the Soviet sphere of influence and became a People’s Republic in 1946. Communist domination ended in 1990, when Bulgaria held its first multiparty election since World War II and began the contentious process of moving toward political democracy and a market economy while combating inflation, unemployment, corruption, and crime. The country joined NATO in 2004 and the EU in 2007.

Bulgaria, a former Communist country that entered the EU on 1 January 2007, averaged more than 6% annual growth from 2004 to 2008, driven by significant amounts of bank lending, consumption, and foreign direct investment. Successive governments have demonstrated a commitment to economic reforms and responsible fiscal planning, but the global downturn sharply reduced domestic demand, exports, capital inflows, and industrial production. GDP contracted by 5.5% in 2009, and has been slow to recover in the years since. Despite having a favorable investment regime, including low, flat corporate income taxes, significant challenges remain. Corruption in public administration, a weak judiciary, and the presence of organized crime continue to hamper the country’s investment climate and economic prospects. “

https://www.cia.gov/

clip_image001

A rose garden behind the lovely sculpture just near the Baba Vida Fortress.

Bulgaria is a major exporter of roses.

clip_image002

“The Babini Vidini Kuli fortress, also known as Baba Vida Fortress is situated on an area of 9.5 decares on the bank of the river Danube, in the northern part of Vidin.

The fortress was raised upon the remains of the ancient town of Bononia. The construction of the medieval castle began during the second half of the 10th century, but during the Second Bulgarian Empire (the end of the 12th – 14th century) the basic construction was performed. The last Bulgarian king before the falling of Bulgaria under the Ottoman dominion, Ivan Sratsimir (1324– 1397) had lived in the fortress.

According to a legend, Vida had been the eldest daughter of a wealthy Bulgarian boyar. Due to the unsuccessful marriages of her sisters – Kula and Gamza, Vida rejected all of the proposals for marriage, built the castle and remained in it for the rest of her life.

During the Ottoman rule, the warehouse premises for food and ammunition and guard-rooms were separated in the fortress. And after the Liberation (1878) the access to it was forbidden because the site was used by the army.

The first excavations in the fortress from 1956 to 1962 uncovered remains of the Roman, Byzantine, early Bulgarian, late Bulgarian and Ottoman age.

Baba Vida was opened to visitors in 1958 and a museum was arranged in the fortress.

In 1964 the medieval castle was declared a monument of culture, having national significance.

The fortress is surrounded by a moat, which was sometimes filled with water from the river Danube, and the bridge was mobile. Baba Vida had nine corner and intermediate towers with the walls and the towers ending with loop-holes.

The grounds of a chapel from the 13th-14th century were found during excavations in the fortress.

     At the moment two of the towers are accessible for visiting. There is a prison in the fortress, in which torture devices can be seen. The figures of an executioner and a prisoner with which the tourists often take pictures are attractive. Cannons and gallows are exposed on one of the terraces.

     Baba Vida is among the most preserved medieval fortification constructions in Bulgaria, which is why it is not accidentally often chosen as a set for shooting movies. The summer theatre of Vidin where concerts, theater performances and other shows are conducted, is also situated in the fortress.

     Post cards, souvenirs and information materials can be bought for a memory of the fortress.

http://bulgariatravel.org/en/object/21/Krepost_Baba_Vida

clip_image003 clip_image004

clip_image005

Lots of stairways up and dark stone spiral stairways down.

clip_image006 clip_image007

Captain Randal in armor with his shield and trusty steed.

clip_image008

Who could resist?

clip_image009

We made a guess that the holes  were made by the prisoners counting days and maybe even months or years! 

clip_image010

Pretty gruesome display though the Bulgarian travel website describes it as ‘attractive.”

clip_image011

Stambol Gate

     “Stronghold walls “Kaleto”

“Because of the necessity of additional strengthening for the town of Vidin that after 1718 became a borderline territory for the Ottoman Empire, for a period of 30 years (1690-1720) the so-called “Kale” was constructed – stronghold walls surrounding the town at all sides. They are a semi-circle with a diameter of 1600 meters along Danube river and double stone wall facing the river. A ditch was dug at the side of the shore with depth of 5-6 meters and width of 18 meters, faced with stone and filled with water in the past. “Kaleto” had 9 entrance gates (doors). The preserved equipments today are parts of the stronghold doors, the Northern half of the ditch and small part of the walls. The preserved gates are Florentin gate, Enichar gate, Pazar gate and Stambol gate (the main gate of the Vidin Kale). They are arched passages with guard premises inside the walls. They used to get closed with two-leaf gates of oak girders cased with iron. One could pass above the ditch along wooden bridges as one part of them was mobile. The exit to Danube river was also possible via other 5 doors: Aralak gate, Top gate, Saray gate, Telegraph gate and Syurgyun gate (the first and the last of them are bricked up). The stronghold wall is preserved next to Telegraph gate.

After “Kaleto” was constructed Vidin has never been conquered by an enemy during whatever military actions.

“Kaleto”, together with the preserved gates (doors) is a cultural monument of national significance.“

http://www.culturaltourism-ipa.eu/portal/?q=en/3.5.7e

The Osman Pazvantoglu mosque with the arrow instead of the crescent…..

clip_image012

Two men were just starting afternoon prayers so I didn’t enter the mosque though they invited me to join when they noticed me looking in. 

clip_image013

“The town’s heyday was in the 14th century when, under the name of Bdin, it was capital of the principality of the same name, but it fell to the Ottomans in 1396.  The Turkish feudal lord Osman Pazvantoglu took it as his own personal fief from 1793-1807.

……..If you visit the town be sure to see the interesting mosque and mausoleum-like library (ca.1800) of Osman Pazvantoglu, who had rebelled against the Sultan.  The mosque is built in typical oriental style but instead of the crescent moon that normally tops the dome, here it is an arrow-head – eloquent  testimony to the builder’s insubordination.”  JPM Danube Guide

“The struggle of the Bulgarians for a church independent from the Greek clergy was crowned with success in 1868.  Later on 1872, Antim, the Bishop of Vidin, was elected the first Bulgarian exarch in the second half of the 19th century.”  Municipal of Vidin Monuments of Culture booklet

The Metropolitan Complex including Saint Nikolai Mirlikiiski Church

The full name of the church is “St. Nikolai Miracle Worker”. It was built in 1926 after the design of arch. Kosta Nikolov, who also managed the construction works. The church was erected in the place of an old bell-tower and an extension to the “St. Panteleimon” Church. That extension had been used as “St. Nikola” temple”. /1799/. Today “St. Nikolai” Church is part of the complex including: the “St. Panteleimon” Church/1634/, the residential building of the Metropolitan of Vidin /1924 /, the mausoleum of Antim I /1934 / and the eparchial school /1926 /. It is of the three –nave cross-vault type of churches, with one apse, narthex and towers. Besides a rear gallery for the people, it also has two side galleries. The walls are all painted.   http://vidin.bg/?page_id=691&lang=en

clip_image014 clip_image015

“The main religion in Bulgaria is Bulgarian Orthodox. There are also Roman Catholics, Muslims,

Protestants, Jews etc.  Around twelve percent of the people are Muslim.

The Eastern Orthodox Church emerged as a result of disagreements between Greek speaking

eastern churches and Latin speaking western churches over doctrine and ecclesiastical authority.

During the Ottoman rule it was placed under the jurisdiction of the patriarch of Constantinople.

However, with the demise of the Ottoman empire many independent churches emerged in eastern

Europe. Remaining in communion they retain their independence. “  http://www.bulgarianembassy-london.org/

clip_image016 clip_image017

Just across from the main square.

clip_image018

Happily some things don’t change!

clip_image019

clip_image020

Municipal Theater  :  Vladimir Trendafilov Drama Theater

Vida Charity Theater Society was established in 1879. The first performances were held at the National Cafe in the Bolyarska neighborhood. The Vida Theater was built in 1891 with funds collected by a steering committee. This is the first building in Bulgaria that was built to be used as a theater.

Today, the Vidin Drama Theater has an extensive repertoire and has performances two seasons every year.

State Puppet Theater  (Very sorry not to have seen any performances.)

The Vidn Puppet Theater was established in 1976 as a section of the Tsvyat Community Center. In 1980 it became a state theater under the Ministry of Culture. Since 2000, the puppet theater is co-financed by the Municipality of Vidin and the Ministry of Culture. At present, the staff is 24. The actors are 9, with their own director, art studios, technical staff and administration. The performances are mostly for children but there are some for adults as well. 3 to 4 new performances are staged every year. Annually, the theater has about 200 performances in the city and the neighboring communities, as well as all over the country.

The actors utilize different systems of puppets but show a consistent interest in the theater of shadows.

The Vidin Puppet Theater is the only Bulgarian theater that is a member of the Art for Children and Youth European Association in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. The Vidin Puppet Theater has participated in many national and international meetings and festivals and has been awarded many prizes, such as: first prize of the National Puppet Acacdemy; the Special Award of the Jury at the International Puppet Festival in Botoshani, Romania (1996); the Most Theatrical Team Award at the International Puppet Festival in Subotitsa, Yugoslavia (1997); the award of the Dutch Embassy and the Projects: East West Dutch Foundation at the International Puppet Festival in Pleven (1999 and 2000).

The Vidin Puppet Theater has successfully performed in Germany, Austria, Yugoslavia, Mongolia, Croatia, Romania, Hungary and Albania.

http://www.vidin-online.com/eng/cluture-and-art/

clip_image021

Konak or Town Hall  Closed when we stopped by.) The top of the building is hidden behind the tree and in the haze. 

     “The building is a unique architectural and cultural monument of local significance. It was built up in the 18th century and served as a (Turkish) police station. Because of the good visibility the central tower part served as a fire-tower.

After the Liberation from the Ottomans it was reconstructed and Bulgarian Renaissance architecture elements were introduced. It has been a museum since 1956.  The exposition traces back the history of the Vidin region from the remote past to the Liberation.

     The foundations of the museum activity in Vidin region were laid in 1910 when the Archaeological Society was established and the first museum collection was arranged.  When the wars from the mid 20-ties of the 20th century were over Bononia Archaeological Society activated its collecting activity and under the guidance of the teacher Vasil Atanasov arranged an exposition of numismatic materials and Bulgarian embroideries in the old Turkish post-office building.

     Vidin history museum has strengthened its positions in the national museum network by its successfully arranged museum expositions, structuring of the departments and achievements in the science and research domain.

http://museum-vidin.domino.bg/eng/index2.htm

clip_image022

Town Hall Stairs

As soon as we arrived in the town center, this dog joined us for our entire walk.  Thankfully it didn’t follow us back to the boat because it was so sweet I would have had a hard time not getting “too involved.”

clip_image023

Art Museum, a 5 minute walk from DoraMac so I took myself one day.  When I got there, the posted hours said it would be open but it was closed.  I looked around for a bit and peered into the window and then started to walk away.  A man called to me and then walked over and unlocked the door and flipped on the lights.  It was really sad.  The building smelled musty and the floor was uneven as if it had been flooded and dried badly.  I found maybe 100 paintings on the walls and didn’t see any way to go anyplace other than the first floor.  No one came to check on me and the signage was all in Bulgarian.  So my experience definitely doesn’t match the description below.  They need to have someone from the wonderful art museum in Silistra come and help them.  But I’m sure, like the Synagogue, it’s partly a matter of money.  And I believe Silistra is a good deal larger and supports 2 “5 star” hotels.  It definitely looked to have more money. 

clip_image024

The Regional Art Gallery in town of Vidin was founded in 1962 by the initiative of the local cultural and public figure Angel Budev. The current name Nikola Petrov is since 1976, when was the 60-year anniversary of the death of the great Vidin artist – Nikola Petrov. The gallery is housed in a building dating-back to 1892 (former Military Club), which has very beautiful and exquisite architecture and is located near the Danube Park. In the courtyard of the gallery are placed several beautiful stone sculptures and a monument of Nikola Petrov, whose name bears the gallery.

In the Art  gallery Nikola Petrov are exposed more than 1300 works of famous Bulgarian and foreign artists, arranged in three specialized divisions: Graphics, Painting and Sculpture. Among the most famous Bulgarian artists are Zlatyu Boyadjiev, Ivan Mrkvicka, Vladimir Dimitrov – Maystora, Nikola Petrov, Sirak Skitnik, Svetlin Rusev and others.

Besides its permanent exhibition the gallery houses temporary exhibitions from Bulgaria and abroad.

http://visit.guide-bulgaria.com/a/573/art_gallery_nikola_petrov.htm

clip_image025clip_image026 clip_image027

I don’t know the artist or the subject but it seemed so life-like and the hands seemed 3 dimensional.  But it looks as if the canvas is deteriorating.

clip_image028

I liked this painting too and a couple others.

Vidin Bulgaria Day one

Braila, Romania

Salut = hello in Romanian

   We checked out of Bulgaria and into Romania yesterday, both longer processes than elsewhere along the way.  No problem,  just longer waiting while everyone who needed to authorize our exit and entrance – authorized, signed and stamped everything that had to be authorized signed and stamped.  Rick and Randal went off to get this all done and Mary and I stayed on the boat where it felt like an even longer process.  That always happens when you are just waiting.  Last night we stayed overnight in Hirsova after a long 124 kilometer day which included the check in and check out stops.  Tonight we’re in Braila.  In this email I’m back in Vidin, one of my favorite stops in smaller places.

   I have to say that moving along fairly rapidly has made my head spin about.  That’s partially due to my wanting to understand and then pass along enough past and current history to understand why life is as it is in Eastern Europe.  Some of these Vidin emails contain lots of text along with the photos.  I thought it was all interesting.

Ru

Vidin Bulgaria

Poor but not downtrodden is how I would look at Vidin.  Downtrodden were the people in the Philippines we saw.  The Bulgarians seem upbeat.  The women dress up.  People are out and about.  But the library and art museum all need a huge infusion of municipal money. 

      Meeting Emilia and the young women from Sofia University “Saint Kliment Ohridski” was a real treat.  A high school student we met while out in the city was quite self-possessed as he told us about his summer internship working with computers.  He too was quite positive about America.  People in general seemed friendly. 

    I want to tell those who could to invest in Serbia and Bulgaria, because for many historic and recent global economy reasons the area is an economic mess.  Hopefully the economy will improve; you just have to root for the people. 

clip_image001

Checking into Bulgaria in Vidin

clip_image002

Tied up to a restaurant barge. 

We had power  and water.  To get water we had to attach our hose to the faucet in the restaurant kitchen.  Even turned on full force it took a good while to fill our boat.  But they were very accommodating about it.  Rick had to figure out how to get it all attached and I had to hunt around under our settee for the bag of clamps Randal said were there.  I found the clamps and Rick rigged the hose up to the faucet and it all worked.

clip_image003

Lines and steel beams held the barge in place.

clip_image004

We had to climb off DoraMac onto the barge and walk through the “outdoor” cafe to get to the street.  The owner of this barge also was a partner in the restaurant barge just down river from us.

clip_image005

clip_image006

A park promenade ran along the waterfront.

clip_image007

Some enchanted foxes in the park.

clip_image008

You can see where their ears have been rubbed: I know I rubbed them. 

clip_image009

An even slower way to get water; but clever.  Several straws were jammed together extending from the fountain to the empty bottle.  You can safely drink from all of the fountains in Eastern Europe and Turkey too.

clip_image010

Not sure what this building is but we passed it on our way to the Synagogue which was on our way to Baba Vida Fortress.

clip_image011

The Synagogue

The second biggest synagogue in Bulgaria and once considered the most beautiful. Now it’s derelict.  Emilia said many Vidin residents are ashamed of its condition.  But there’s no money for the library or schools which I think need to come first if there’s ever to be enough money for the extras such as the synagogue or art gallery.  Rather than try to rebuild it I think they should clean out all the debris and anything dangerous and just turn it into a restful green area like they did in London with Saint Dunstan  in the East. 

“Built in 1894 in the neo-Gothic style Vidin was Bulgaria’s second largest synagogue, a testament to the wealth and pride of the local community that had flourished for more than five centuries after its arrival from Spain in the fifteenth century. The synagogue contained a narthex, prayer hall. And lofts all of which were decorated with a combination of classic architectural forms and ancient Jewish decorative symbols, illuminated by stained-glass windows.

Today, the Vidin Synagogue with its four towers stands as a ruin, roofless and forlorn. Seized by the communist government in the wake of WWII, the synagogue was subsequently appropriated by the state. During the 1970s the Ministry of Culture and the National Institute of Monuments developed a plan to restore the building. Work began in 1983 and continued until 1989, when the collapse of the communist regime lead to the abandonment of the project, just as workers had removed the roof. Exposed to the elements for more than a decade the synagogue is now a ruin. Complete photo documentation of the synagogue and its interiors took place prior to the restoration attempt and could be used as the basis for a new restoration program. The Bulgarian national Jewish organization, now the owner of the site, wishes to see the building restored as a concert hall for use by the community, and also as a monument to its forebears.

Last update: 2004”  http://www.wmf.org/project/vidin-synagogue

A Ministry Letter Slowing Down Restoration of the Vidin Synagogue

Author: Tsvetomir Tsvetanov, Lilia Dimitrova, Plamen Kotsev

Source: BNR, Radio Vidin, 07.03.2013

http://severozapazenabg.com/

clip_image012

clip_image013

clip_image014

That could be framed and saved with some kind of historical explanation.

clip_image015

Part of the barbed wire fence had been pushed open so we crawled through. There was somewhat of a beaten path but it was mostly overgrown waist-high brush. 

clip_image016

Photo in the small museum in the Fortress shows it had once been surrounded by a low stone wall.

clip_image017

This is the first street artist I have found who had painted an image of the local synagogue.  The street artist in Budapest we saw had none of the Great Synagogue and most tourist offices had nothing.  Interestingly Slovakia, Serbia and Bulgaria seemed more proud of their synagogues and had information in the tourist offices. 

clip_image018

A memento of the synagogue that one day might not be there

clip_image019

Monument, raised by the Jewish community of town Vidin, Bulgaria

It’s in Bulgarian so I’ve only been able to find bits about it but the nuber 49,000 is engraved in the text.  That’s about the number of Jews who were sved by the Bulgaria during WW 2.

May 14, 2002

Salvation of the Bulgarian Jews during the last world war

Beatriz Rosanes de Samuilov

http://www.raoulwallenberg.net/saviors/others/salvation-bulgarian-jews/

Last night in Serbia

Hotel Drustar

Silistra, Bulgaria

  добро утро  dobro utro = Good Morning

We’ll spend today in Silistra mostly to stock up on “fizzy water” from the supermarket and a few other things, see about checking out of Bulgaria this afternoon (or have to wait until we leave tomorrow depending what the officials say.)  Our next stop will be Cernovoda in Romania.  This email is about final night in Serbia.

Ru

Negotin  Serbia (just near the Djerdap 2 dam) our final stop in Serbia just before our final lock of the river trip

clip_image001

The small town/yacht club nearby was too shallow so we tied up here.  A guard told us we couldn’t.  We said we had no place else to go.  Two fishermen told the guard we had no place to go.  So he let us stay for the night.  Randal sent Mary with some beer for the fishermen.  They spoke no English and we no Serbian but it all worked out.  There really was no place else to go and no one else needed the dock, so logic and common sense won out.  And good will.

clip_image002

Down this road was a small restaurant.

clip_image003

Kafé bar Laguna located 10 km from Negotin on the banks of the Danube, on Kusjak beach just  near (but not too near) the hydropowerplant “Djerdap II.”  They also run a guest house.  You can borrow a boat for fishing on the Danube.  And it’s located on the international bike route that follows along the Danube. 

clip_image004

Grape arbor

Randal and Rick ordered white wine.  When asked if they liked it, the owner said he’d made it himself!  Maybe from these grapes.  Randal wasn’t so fond of it though managed to drink several glasses.  Rick liked it.  I tasted it and thought it was pretty good actually.

clip_image005

We were early

clip_image006

Laguna’s owner posing with us

clip_image007

The woman standing was originally from Negotin and was back visiting family.  She has a brother who lives in Chicago.

Derdap 2 OUR FINAL LOCK OF THE JOURNEY!!!!!!  From Vlissingen in The Netherlands until Derdap  2 near the Serbian/Bulgarian border we’d done about 57 of then.   Praise the inventor of the floating bollard where you tie on and it does the work rather than Mary and me chaning hooks the whole way up and one lock that went down. 

clip_image008

clip_image009

clip_image010

I didn’t draw this but it’s certainly how I felt!  It was on the side of the floating bollard chamber.

clip_image011

Life jackets became mandatory in Austria so we continued to wear them the rest of the way.

clip_image012

Checking out from Serbia: we showed up but no one was there.  Finally someone called us and said they would be back to the office as soon as they’d dealt with the big barge ahead of us. 

clip_image013