Johor Bahru

Sebana Cove

Malaysia

So we’re still here at Sebana Cove.  Monday we met a couple who have been here for 10 YEARS!!!!!  Yikes!!!  Randal asked if they had connections to the Mob in New Jersey, so that tells you what he thinks it would take to keep him here that long.  Of course, we spent almost a year in Subic Bay so who are we to talk.  Everything cruising just takes longer, or you find paradise and stay, or you paint your deck and 2 minutes later it rains really pissing you off about the entire place so you leave 2 days later as happened to our friends Elizabeth and Patrick.  Oh, they were planning on leaving soon, but rain on his painted deck just pushed Patrick right along. 

Other than finally getting back on our bikes and riding several times each week,  taking the marina van to town 2 or 3 times a week, or our occasional trip to Kota Tinggy we really don’t do anything.  Really.  We read and walk a bit, less now that we bike, and Randal bakes apple pies.  There is truly not much else to do.  Actually, right now I am watching people walk back from the pool because there is a man wearing the tiniest bathing suit I have ever seen that isn’t on a woman.  He is our age too!  I must say from my very unscientific study that Americans and Asians wear the most bathing attire and Europeans wear the least.  Very unscientific study.

A week ago, the Tuesday before Thanksgiving, Randal and I took the bus to Johor Bahru just to have something different to do and to go book shopping.  It’s a very easy trip.  The marina van takes you out to the main road about 8:10 am and you wait the hour for the bus to come from Sengai Rengit on its way to Kota Tinggy and then on to Johor Bahru.  Since once or twice the bus has come by at 8:30, the marina trucks you out there really early.  You can gamble and go later, which we did on our second trip to JB today (another story.) In our experience the bus comes right on time at 9 am.  The wait feels like forever because there’s no place to sit and no shelter from the sun; luckily we haven’t had to go in the rain. 

clip_image002  Randal at the bus stop.  You just flag down the bus and they drop us off here when we return. 

The only thing to do while you wait is stand around and watch for the bus,  stand around and try to read while you watch for the bus, or stand around and watch the monkeys run in and out of the road for reasons only a monkey could know since no human watching has been able to figure it out. 

The bus ride itself is very pleasant with roomy comfortable seats, air conditioning, no overcrowding and the buses are clean.  The ride takes about 2 hours. 

When we arrived at the bus terminal in Johor Bahru we checked on the bus schedule home and the Maraliner agent wrote out the hours for us and a scrap of paper.  Then it was a quick lunch at McDonalds where they have grilled chicken “cutlets” on pita bread.  At a bus terminal it is often wise to stick with what you know.  While we were eating Randal called to see if our friend Jerry Wallace was still in Johor Bahru.  Jerry lives in Zhuhai, China and we know him from our boat yard days.  He was our host for Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years while we were in China.  Jerry was still in JB (work related) so it was fitting that we would be with him again for Thanksgiving.  Though it wasn’t our usual budget type hotel, since Jerry was staying at the Puteri Pacific and helped us get a better rate, we stayed at the Puteri Pacific www.puteripacific.com   The best part was that we got to spend time with Jerry and that was the best part of our visit.  Jerry is in the boat business so he and Randal had lots to talk about and I could tune in and out without insulting anyone.  The taxi fare from the bus terminal to the hotel was 10 ringits.  Everywhere it town it was 10 ringits, just like in Kota Kinabalu.  I don’t know if all major Malaysian cities are like that, but so far the 2 we have been in have similar policies.  Jerry met us in the lobby and we sat and had coffee and chatted for a bit.  Our room wasn’t ready so I left my pack at the front desk while Jerry took us to the 2 large malls closest to our hotel.  We had told him we wanted to buy books so he showed us the 2 in the mall.  Then he went off to his work and Randal and I spent some time browsing.  It wasn’t a huge selection, and I hate to pay much for fiction, but we did come away with several books each.

clip_image004Randal writing his name, date  and Johor Bahru in all of the books he bought.

What Randal bought:  1.The Edge of Evolution by Dr. Michael J Behe because it was the only thing he could find about Darwin.  He had just finished Evolution’s Captain about the captain of the H. M S. Beagle who had invited Darwin along for the ride.  2. Mayflower A Voyage to War by Nathaniel Philbrick because we had liked Philbrick’s In the Heart of the Sea.  3.The Man Who Loved China by Simon Winchester because it was written by Winchester and because it was about China.  4. Memo to the President by Madeleine Albright because he had read her memoir Madam Secretary.  5. The Souvenir  A Daughter Discovers Her Father’s War by Louise Steinman because it was about WWII and I had read it years ago and liked it.  I bought The Last Lecture by Randy Pausch the Professor who died from pancreatic cancer but gave this one last lecture,   Charlotte Bronte by Elizabeth Gaskell who was Bronte’s contemporary.  I also bought  What Came Before He Shot Her an Elizabeth George Inspector Lynley mystery because it was only 17.50 ringits and I like her writing.  I have already read it and passed it along.

We returned from the mall, checked in and around 6:30 met Jerry to go off for dinner.  We went off to George and Dragon run by Brits because Randal wanted BEEF!!!  I had fish.  Then we returned to the hotel where we had dessert in the restaurant.  I had pistachio cake!

Wednesday morning we met Jerry in the hotel dining room for breakfast which comes with the room.  There was enough food and variety of food to eat breakfast, lunch and dinner no matter if you were Americans, Asians, or Indians.  I tried to be good, and actually had a made to order omelet and some guava juice and tea.  But there was spaghetti, salad, food you would find at a dinner buffet in a Chinese restaurant in the States.  You name it, it was there.  Breads, pancakes, pastry, fruits…..The second morning I had some wonderful bread, some sweet green stuff to spread on top (along with peanut butter) and more juice.  Lots of tea. 

On Wednesday we just kind of wandered around.  We tried to walk over to the waterfront causeway that goes to Singapore, but there was no way to cross a major highway.  So then we walked back towards the hotel through the Indian section looking for an Internet Cafe.  We spotted one but was told by the owner that he didn’t open till 1pm.  It was just about 10 am. He told us City Center Mall had Internet access.  And it may very well have.  But after wandering through its 4 floors and asking several folks we finally found what might have been an Internet Cafe, but it too was closed.  We wandered some more and found a small Indian run mall and there was an open Internet Cafe.  I say Indian because sections are Chinese and some are Indian and some are Malaysian….

clip_image006  It was too sunny to get a good photo of this Hindu temple just down the street from our hotel.  You could see it looking out of our window on the 8th floor.

clip_image008  You can see the temple reflected in the shop window. 

Clothes in the malls were a mix of New York, Bombay, and fashions of the Muslim world.  I just wandered around while Randal opted to stay at the hotel and read.  That was fine since the mall was a 5 minute walk from the hotel and I could easily go alone.  I tried on a few things, but the dress didn’t fit and the skirt was too short ending just above my ankles; but the reject Crew t-shirts were just fine.  There was a shop that sold rejects or seconds.  My crew shirts were fine.  I had come with only sleeveless shirts and was cold so bought some really light weight t-shirts.  I could have shopped more and wish Randal had come; he actually does need some new shorts.  I never did find stores selling bathing suits though Jerry assures me one is there.  And though the clerk was totally patient, I gave up in the sneaker store. 

clip_image010  A man having his fortune told on the sidewalk. 

After Randal and I used the Internet we tried to walk to a different part of the waterfront, but it was rather derelict so we walked back to city center.  It was hot and I was thirsty and it was close to lunch so we ate in a Fridays.  Not great.  Then I wanted to see the Sultan Ibrahim Building which Randal had vetoed earlier in the day in favor of the derelict waterfront.  So I sent him back to the hotel to read and I went alone.  I knew I could get there because we had passed it and I could see it.  You know what this is leading to, don’t you?  I’ll leave you in suspense for the next email.

Ru

Johor Bahru part 2 The Sultan Ibrahim Building

Sebana Cove Marina

The Sultan Ibrahim Building

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The following article was on the web http://www.nst.com.my/Current_News/JohorBuzz/Tuesday/Stories/20080818101359/Article/

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“Sultan Ibrahim Building — up high where it belongs”

Anis Ibrahim

TAKE one look at the Sultan Ibrahim Building in Johor Baru and you would never imagine it being the site of much plotting and scheming.

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BIRD’S EYE VIEW: The panoramic view from the top of the Sultan Ibrahim Building.

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STRIKING: Archways in the tower of the Sultan Ibrahim Building.

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INTRICATE: Rafters in the main hall of the building.

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DAMAGED: The brass plaque at the Sultan Ibrahim Building which was partly damaged by bomb shrapnel.

The imposing building, which stands majestically atop Bukit Timbalan, now houses the offices of the Johor government.
In the past, tourists were not allowed to enter the building but could only take photographs from outside.
From now on, they can make their way into the building and reach the highest viewing platform.

This was made possible following an initiative by the State Secretary’s office to open the building to the public as the latest tourism product in Johor.
To reach the platform, all one has to do is to get to the office at Level One. An officer will offer a guided tour by taking a lift until the highest accessible level, to be followed by a short climb.
The platform offers a panoramic view of Johor Baru. The main view comprises the Causeway, the Johor Strait and the city centre.
The square-shaped platform is empty save for a few birds which have built their nests in niches in the ceiling.
Spotlights are switched on in the tower from 7pm to 7am daily, giving the building a slightly eerie glow at night.
The building was used by the Japanese for spying activities.
When the Japanese conquered Malaya in 1942, the Japanese Imperial Army saw the building as an excellent spot to spy on the British in Singapore.
And why not, with its 64m-high tower, the building was the tallest in Malaya back then.
So effective was the tower as an outlook point that the Japanese attacked Singapore less than two weeks after they took over Johor in January 1942.
Within the next few days of their assault, the Japanese army had gained control of the island.
The building continued to be the command centre and fortress for the Japanese until their defeat in 1945.
Such a colourful history was never intended for the Sultan Ibrahim Building which, according to its tourist information centre, was only fully completed in 1942.
The building was constructed under the order of the second Sultan of modern Johor, Sultan Ibrahim, who intended to have all state government offices under one roof.
Made of concrete and reinforced concrete, the building was designed by Messrs Palmer and Turner Architects, and construction work was assigned to United Engineers and Ah Hong & Company.
It was an ambitious project for that time and the Sultan Ibrahim Building was seen as representing the golden era of modern Johor.
Apart from its historical significance, the Sultan Ibrahim Building is also interesting because of its design.
The building exhibits three characteristics: Malay art, Islamic design and colonial architecture.
While the facade depicts colonial characteristics, the intricate carvings on the ceilings and walls have Islamic art features.
Beautifully-designed ceiling rafters in the main hall, on the other hand, reflect the artistic tradition of Malays.
Foundation works began on Nov 7, 1938, when Tengku Mahkota Sultan Ismail officiated the ground-breaking ceremony.
A brass plaque marks the laying of the foundation stone on March 10, 1940, but ironically, part of the date is illegible — the building was bombed during the Japanese occupation and during the bombing, the plaque was cut by a piece of shrapnel.
A lot of the structures and items found within the grounds of the building have remained since its completion, such as the four cannons at the main entrance and the giant flagpole facing the Johor Strait.
Today, the Sultan Ibrahim Building has resumed its original role.
Where army officers used to work and congregate, the building is now home to 46 state government departments and offices, including the menteri besar’s office.
The viewing platform opening hours are from 8am to 4.30pm from Mondays to Saturdays (except the first and third Saturdays).”

Now you know as much about the place as I do since I never made it inside.  After I left Randal at Fridays I made my way towards the building though I wasn’t absolutely sure how to get there.  Unfortunately I saw a set of stairs leading to the fence that ran around the building’s perimeter.

clip_image012  There are 93 steps and I made the assumption if there were steps there would be a back entrance into the complex.  I walked up the steps and got to the gate and it was locked.  I could have turned around and walked down and around the block but again guessed that the fence would eventually end if I followed it along.

clip_image014   The stairs ended here at a locked gate.

I decided to follow the fence around the complex.

clip_image016  It got worse and hotter and there were more bugs and the fence never ended.  So I had the choice of trying to walk down a steep bank and then jump a good distance into the HSBC parking lot or walk all the way around again, down the stairs and around the block.  And so I did.  I was hot and thirsty and felt just a little silly for even attempting the “fence walk” but still I was determined to see the Sultan building.      

clip_image018  And here I am, smiling though I am pissed off, hot and thirsty.    I have on my longest “short pants, and a shirt with sleeves, but apparently that wasn’t good enough.  Maybe I needed socks and long pants and a long shirt.  I was just told no and waved away and I didn’t argue.  They weren’t thrilled with my camera either.  I didn’t argue because there was really no one to argue with.  The military guard just said no and walked away so that was that.  I kind man said he would take my photo on the steps but that perhaps it was the camera…. he seemed reluctant to tell me I was dressed inappropriately for the building.  It was the same clothes I had worn to the Mosque in Kota Kinabalu.  Well blah!  

The funniest part, the only funny part, is that when I started telling my story at dinner, Jerry said he had done the exact same thing.  He had found the steps tempting and walked up and then along the fence.  Jerry is over 6 feet tall so crouching through the trees along the fence must have been tough.  But he didn’t hesitate to go down the bank and jump down into the HSBC parking lot so he didn’t have to retrace his steps which was the really annoying part.    And he has been inside even taking his friend Natalie, who was wearing pants!  The nice man who took my photo drove me down the hill from the building to the main road.  He would have driven me back to the hotel but the hotel was actually just across the way so it was easier to walk than drive.       

When I got back to the hotel I told Randal it was his fault for not going with me in the first place.  He didn’t buy that story and though I would have liked to have seen the building it was good practice to do something on my own, cockeyed as it was.  Since Randal was more in the mood for reading or a nap, after I cooled off and rested a bit I walked over to the mall in search of sneakers and a bathing suit.  No luck but I did get my t-shirts.   And the view from our room was almost as good as the one from the sultan building.

clip_image020 Randal mapping a plan

Wednesday night we had dinner in the hotel and more dessert; this time creme brule’!    

Thursday morning we met Jerry for breakfast again and sat and chatted.  Then it was time to return to Sebana Cove.  It had been a lovely visit with Jerry and Randal and I both liked the feel of Johor Bahru. 

clip_image022   My new rejected t-shirt from J Crew and my new black glasses that I sort of like but are really too heavy for my nose.  And Jerry