Passage Info

Tomorrow early in the morning we’ll start off FROM PUTERI to Pinang, Besar, and Port Dixon on our way to Lumut, the next official rally stop. The first Lumut event is on November 17th.    We’ll anchor each night so this trip has no overnight passages.  We will spend 3 nights in Port Dixon where we will be at a marina.   Since we don’t have any night passages I’m actually looking forward to the trip.  And some of our anchorages might be good for snorkeling if we get there in time and the water is clean.  We haven’t gotten to do that for a while and we both miss it.  This isn’t necessarily unchangeable, but as of this minute it’s our plan.  Not sure about email along the way.  It just depends if there are cell tours where we anchor.  Our DIGI phone modem is working pretty well with the email here in Puteri though it’s slow loading  web pages.    Since the Sox are out of it, who cares and baseball trading really hasn’t started yet so I tend to just do email and then I’m off to read or paint.   I do still read the NYTimes Art and Book pages.  We’re flush with them now!  Thanks George and Eileen.  And last night after the Tuesday market I swapped some I’d finished reading with Julia Woolf.  We had some really good talking time with Julia and her husband Horst when they visited our boat after the night market trip and will see them again as we travel during the rally. 

So here it is.  Tonight we’ll get the boat all ready and be off tomorrow early.

Ru

DoraMac

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Port Dixon

Admiral Marina  http://admiralmarina.com.my/

Port Dixon, Negeri Sembilan Darul Khusus, Malaysia

Hi Everyone,

  We’ll be here in Port Dixon for one or two more days and then make our way north to Lumut, the next official rally stop.  Many of the rally boats chose to stop in Melaka instead of Port Dixon so there are very few rally boats here with us.  We’ll stop in Melaka later in the year or early next year, after the rainy season ends.  We have decided to remain in SE Asia through 2010.  Originally we had planned to leave Asia and cross the Indian Ocean, go up the Red Sea and then into the Med.  That’s now our plan for 2011.  There just too much that we haven’t seen; too much that we rushed through and once we leave SE Asia we probably won’t be back.  It’s kind of “now or probably not ever.”  We want to do lots more snorkeling, revisit some of our favorite places, like Terrenganu, and also do some land travel.  Beijing, the Tibet railway and India are on my list though we might very well cruise in India.  Anyway, that’s what we’re thinking now.

  Today Randal and I went into Port Dixon.  We’d planned to take the bus but joined another cruising couple who were planning to flag down a taxi.   None of us was sure when the bus would actually come: if we had just missed it we’d have to wait at least 30 minutes or more for the next one.  Because it’s always fun to talk with other cruisers, in Port Dixon we all ate lunch together at one of the many Indian restaurants that line the streets.    We all thought it was very good and it seems as if you really can’t go too far wrong eating Indian unless you think being way too full is too far wrong.  I had yellow flavored rice, some kind of spinach, a cucumber salad and a few bites of what tasted like a very light small onion bagel that had been fried. It was good but I was too full and didn’t need bread with the small mountain of rice. Randal decided to try a chicken onion egg patty along with his meal of rice, chicken and cucumber salad.  It was very good and large enough that all 4 of us has as much of it as we wanted.  By the end, way too full. 

  We’d gone to town to shop for veggies, bread, milk, mail my letter to my cousin Naomi and get a desperately needed haircut for me and a shave for Randal.  At one point I think the barber thought Randal wanted his head shaved and when I asked Randal just now, he said, “No”, but that he had heard the word bald…  Not to worry, it worked out fine.  Except the photo I took of me multiplied by the shop mirrors totally disappeared from my computer photo file.  There’s just a blank space where the photo had been.  It wasn’t deleted, zoomed,  cropped, or erased with the brightness option.  I have no idea where it went.  RATS!

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It was only Randal’s beard that got shaved and not his head.  I did make sure my flash was turned off before I took the photo.  I didn’t want to blind the barber while he was using a straight razor on Randal. 

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The barber was Indian and the customers was Chinese which seems pretty typical of the population mix that we saw in town. 

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We finally bought another little clock so I don’t have to keep moving the only one we have from room to room. 

Originally we had 3, but for some reason really inexpensive little clocks just don’t seem to last forever. 

Of course my overpriced Red Sox watch fell apart even faster and rusted to rediculousness instantly. 

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We walked around town for a bit before we headed over to the one grocery store at the end of town.    I couldn’t resist the elephants.

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Not exactly Starbucks.  This crow had raided the trash and was flying around with a styrofoam cup.  I don’t know what he thought it was but he just wouldn’t let it go.

Our main chores were done and it looked like we were in for the afternoon downpour so we grabbed a taxi and just made it back into the boat in time.  We hooked up our water catcher and managed to collect about 100 gallons in less than an hour so you can imagine how hard it rained. 

Port Dixon is a beach resort area and also has two big petroleum facilities which seems not a good mix.  

So that’s what we’re up to.  Is it baseball season yet?

Ru

DoraMac 

Tour Johor Part 3

11/7/2009  10:35 am   Off the coast of Malaysia

Hi Everyone,

  We are mid passage between Besar and Port Dixon.  Our anchorage last night was quite comfortable and today the sun is shining.  We left at 7:30 am which was a good thing since right this minute we’re only making 4.9 knots because of the adverse current.  When the tide changes about 11 am our speed should pick up.  Hopefully.  Today’s passage is about 40 miles. 

We are cruising alone at this point since the rally tends to break up during the lag days between scheduled events.  We’ll certainly have rally boat company in Port Dixon since it’s a major stop between Johor and Lumut, our next rally stop. 

Ru

DoraMac

Tour Johor Part 3

Lunch was good. Actually all of the meals provided by Sail Malaysia and also Sail Indonesia were pretty good. You might not always know what you were eating and some of it might have been way WAY too spicy hot. But it was all very interesting and usually very filling. I do avoid most of the fish dishes because of the bones and the really strong fish paste too. Everything else I always try.

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Not a tea pot!

As I went to get in line for my food ( with 100+ cruisers it’s always buffet style) I noticed one of the local ladies putting this kettle on the table near some cups. When I sat back down I noticed a brown colored liquid in the cups. Says tea to me. LUCKILY I didn’t have a cup, for if I had, I’d have poured myself a cup of tea. When I asked for a cup so I could have some tea, the lady looked at me oddly and so I pointed to the pot and said, “Tea.” She smiled and shook her head. “For washing hands.” Then she picked up the pot and showed me that you poured the water over your hands into the holder below. Muslims always wash their hands before eating. Cruisers go with the flow….since there isn’t always anywhere to wash anything. I have noticed that all Muslim restaurants have sinks. Some also have soap and a very few also have a towel for drying your hands. Interestingly, I noticed a sink just outside the entrance to the big synagogue in Singapore. I think customs get shared geographically no matter the religion. I don’t think hand washing before prayers was the custom in our synagogue in New Bedford. So anyway, I washed my fingers for the experience and then took my cup up to the juice dispensers and finally had my pineapple juice.

Lunch was rice, fish, curried chicken, some veggies and by the time I was done and also finished the last bit of Randal’s fish, I was ready for the National Park walk.

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Our lunch was served in the front yard of one of the local Homestay houses. Randal and I sort of did that when we stayed in the longhouse in Kumai, Indonesia. It’s different than a B&B because you are there to learn the customs of the area, not just sleep and have breakfast.

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This lovely lady was putting out plates of watermelon.

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There was a table of locally made baskets and local snacks for sale.

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Dried fish and peanut crackers, yellow banana chips, and the folded up things tasted like sugar cones.

Each locality makes those fish crackers differently. These were only okay as were the ones I bought in Kuching. My absolutely, I got addicted to them favorites, were the ones I bought in Terengannu. The folded up sugar cones got eaten on the first day we left Puteri and we haven’t broken into the banana chips yet. ( I have to admit that I ate all the cones myself though not all at one time.)

Then it was off to the Tanjung Piri National Park where you could walk to the tip of Mainland Asia.

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The giant globe at the end of the jetty.

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At the end you get a certificate with you name written on it to prove you have been to the tip. This is my certificate. I probably didn’t deserve it. I did walk there, past the mean macaque monkeys, but I didn’t take a photo at the giant globe and can’t even tell you what we are looking at. I was just not in the mood for anything other than the walk. Randal and I have been to Key West’s end point in Florida and to the tip of Province Town in Massachusetts. And at the end I forgot about the certificate but our guide had brought some bland ones for those of us who forgot to get one.

Actually not only did I forget to get my certificate, but I followed some other cruisers back through the mangrove so I wouldn’t have to deal with the monkeys alone. I followed them right past one of those signs with a red line through the center, over some really rickety trail planks right up to the point where one park worker spotted us and waved his arms for us to stop. He moved aside a rusty old exit gate to let us out.

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Oh well, I got my certificate.

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Where was Randal during this adventure…..he opted to stay on the bus and read.

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A lucky shot of the flowers at the National Park.

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High School kids on a field trip.

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The boy here with his “girl friends.” He wanted to know if I thought he was “cute.” I said I thought they were all cute.

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I spoke with one young girl who was a sophomore in HS and wanted to go on to be a doctor.

They were bright, friendly, polite, spoke excellent English and were happy to talk to all of the cruisers. I loved the way the girls had funky hats on top of their head scarves. These are the kinds of kids you want to see grow up and run their country.

Then it was away from the park for the hour long drive back to Puteri. There was one last stop for coconut milk drinks but this time both Randal and I took a pass. It really isn’t my favorite drink and I was just ready to be done.

Tour Johor

Election day back home. 

  The rally events for this stop are over.  Folks are on their own until the next event in Lumut on November 17th.  Until then cruisers will stay here, go to Singapore, do whatever until they leave to make their way from Johor north to Lumut.  Today Randal and I went into Johor Bahru so I could go to the Johor Art Gallery.  It was a pretty long and not cheap trip but I think it was worth it.  The museum is small but there were several paintings that I really liked.  Then we had to figure out how to get from the Art Gallery into central JB and luckily a taxi came along as we stood there dithering since it would have been a really long not pleasant walk.  We ate lunch and visited a book store.  I took a pass on the 40 ringgit hair cut since I’m just too spoiled with the 10 ringgit jobs.  The last time I spent 40 anything on my hair was in Philadelphia, PA and it was the worst hair cut ever, EVER!!!  And the 40 there were dollars but it was the only place we found in the time we had. 

We did one day of official touring with the rally here in Johor State.  I give the tour a 3 our of 10.  The other official events I missed because of my back.  Oh well.  But we like Johor a lot.   And the visit to the local Tuesday night market last night was lots of fun.

Tour Johor November 2, 2009   Part one

“Johor, the southernmost state of Peninsular Malaysia is made up of eight districts…It has a long coastline flanking the Straits of Malacca on its western seaboard and the South China Sea on the east. Its capital city, Johor Bahru is the main administrative center for the state government…”

It was a long day with too much of it spent on the bus, but my back did pretty okay even when we had to climb the 7 flights of stairs in the Sultan Ibrahim Building and walk the 653 meters to the southernmost tip of mainland Asia at Tanjung Piai National Park. We left the boat at 7 am and climbed back aboard at 6 pm. We visited the city of Johor Bahru and Tanjung Piai National Park. There were stops in between at a pineapple plantation museum, a small roadside fish cake/banana chips facility, and lunch at a local homestay. I wish that the tour had been divided into two days, one full day in Johor Bahru and one out in the country. Luckily Randal and I have been to Johor Bahru so I don’t feel as if we missed out.

First stop was Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque

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Outside the mosque.

It took 8 years to build and was completed in 1900. Our guide said that the interior walls were painted with egg white mixed in with the plaster. And when questioned about it he repeated that it was really egg white on the walls and also that there were absolutely no cracks anywhere in the walls. I know egg tempera uses egg yolks as part of a painting medium, so maybe the egg white is used here somehow. Unfortunately we weren’t allowed inside. The outside was so colonial looking that I was really curious what the inside looked like. I asked why the mosque spire had no crescent and star. Answer, the “crescent and star” was the symbol for Islam and the mosque itself being a symbol of Islam, it didn’t need it. Almost all other mosques we have seen have had the crescent and star and we have had discussions as to which way the crescent opening faces.

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It was a very pretty building overlooking the Singapore Strait separating Malaysia from Singapore.

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Something about it reminded me of the really old Portuguese church that we had seen in Macao.

Next we went to the Sultan Ibrahim Building.

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One of our three buses parked in front of the Sultan Ibrahim Building.

“A famous landmark in JB featuring local and colonial architecture, this building was once used as a fortress and command centre during the Second World War. Today, it houses the state secretariat and other offices of the state government. For visiting purposes kindly obtain prior permission from the security personnel on duty.” All that emphasis is from me. The last time we were in JB I tried to visit and the security personnel didn’t even let me get close. That time I had worn shin length pants and sleeves but no luck. This time I came prepared with long pants, socks, a shawl… but no need especially compared to what most of the other women were wearing. Most of the government offices have actually moved to a brand-new-still-partly-under-construction complex not far from where we are berthed at Puteri. Of the old building we only saw the lobby and the aging theater on the ground floor before we climbed the 7 flights to one of the top floors with a great view of JB, the Straits and Singapore. The building must have been very impressive in its bustling days but now reminded me of a cross between an old castle, the old New Bedford High School and the government building in Buffalo where we could at least take the elevator to the open viewing floor. You can’t tell from this photo but there was lovely landscaping. This is the building surrounded by the fence that I had tried to find an opening into and failed last visit. I had hacked my way through brush and over ditches only to find myself having to retrace my hot dirty way back around to where I had started. Then they wouldn’t let me in to the building. Fond memories. That was last trip. Helps to be on a tour sometimes.

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View from the top. The building with the dome is in JB, Malaysia and the other buildings are in Singapore. It took us a half of a day to go from our boat at Puteri to our hotel in Little India. You can go from Roanoke to DC is almost the same amount of time but then you aren’t changing countries.

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I’m standing with two of the building’s guides. I look like a giant! And except for the red bag I had bought in China I look rather bland compared to my two friends.

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Great space and wonderful views.

There was nothing up there but an empty space with these wonderfully shaped openings and a great view. It was definitely worth the climb since “the aging lift” just couldn’t handle the load of getting over 100 huge western sized people up there. Several folks skipped the climb and walked off to find coffee and snacks. I wish we’d had time for both since lunch was a long way off.

After the Sultan building we headed out of JB into the countryside. Our next stop (and the next email): the Pineapple Museum.

I am going to send out an email showing our passage schedule from Johor to Langkawi.  Lumut, Panang, and Langkawi are official rally stops.  The rest are places we’ve chosen as we make our way to the official stops. 

Ru

DoraMac