Beit Hatfutsot Museum of the Diaspora

Shalom

In about 30 minutes we’re walking across the dock to have dinner on the boat of our friend Eve.  She is making falafel for us.  It was on Eve’s boat that we had Chinese food and blintz wrapped egg-rolls for Passover.  Tomorrow we’re all going to meet the English Speakers of Ashdod Club members at their weekly get-together at Cafe Hillel at the City Mall  a 15 minute walk from here.  Most things are a 15 minute walk from here which is great.

One of my favorite places that we visited in Tel Aviv was the Museum of the Diaspora.  It is on the campus of Tel Aviv University.  We spent several hours; you could have spent several days.  Here are my impressions.

Ru

ps  I guess my request from the Torah scribe at Masada that the Sox win the World Series (and for world peace) wasn’t so goofy after all.  The Sox are doing great!  Now if the “world peace” part could be so easy…..

Israel Museum of the Diaspora Beit Hatfutsot

“Beit Hatfutsot, the Museum of the Jewish People, is more than a museum. This unique global institution tells the ongoing and extraordinary story of the Jewish people. Beit Hatfutsot connects Jewish people to their roots and strengthens their personal and collective Jewish identity. Beit Hatfutsot conveys to the world the fascinating narrative of the Jewish people and the essence of the Jewish culture, faith, purpose and deed while presenting the contribution of world Jewry to humanity.”

http://www.bh.org.il/

“Outsiders looking in on this singular people often tend to form stereotype, like the rapacious hook-nosed moneylender of anti-Semitic cartoons. Actually the Jew of the Diaspora might be almost anything: farmer, trader, shopkeeper, silversmith for the Yemenites, slave trader for the Kings of Bohemia, lion tamer for the Kings of Aragon, and his physical traits might vary as much as his choice of trades.

“This spectrum is richly illustrated in a display where lights are continually flashing in the darkness as 16 screens project photographic galleries of Jewish faces throughout the contemporary world. There are some 200 in all – blond Jews, black Jews, sturdy mountaineers and gentle scholars, a vast array of facial characteristics, a cross-section of mankind.”…….

“Beth Hatefutsoth is intended to be a record of achievement, and its prevailing tone is one of victory over recurring difficulties. But there are continual reminders that the great victories are balanced by great disasters, that a recurring theme of Jewish history has been woe. The visitor walking up from floor to floor climbs a circular stairwell in which there hangs from the ceiling a cagelike iron structure 50 feet high designed by Charles Forberg of New York. An eerie light in the center and solemn music help identify this as a memorial column, commemorating centuries of martyrdom. At its foot are “Scrolls of Fires” – illuminated poems recalling the great tragedies that have befallen the Jews since 586 BC, when Solomon’s Temple was destroyed, down to Hitler’s holocaust of 1939-45. ………

“Outside the building the visitor steps back into the peaceful university canvas. Students are running on the grass between courses. The exiles are safely at home. But it takes no more than the distant whine of an Army fighter plane or the siren on an ambulance that may be on its way to the scene of a suicide bombing to recall that the final chapter is not yet written, the story has no guarantee of a happy ending.

©1978, 2003 Robert Wernick Smithsonian Magazine June 1978

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One of the security entrances into Tel Aviv University. http://www.tau.ac.il/index-eng.html

“Outside the building the visitor steps back into the peaceful university canvas.”

Located in Israel’s cultural, financial and industrial heartland, Tel Aviv University is the largest university in Israel and the biggest Jewish university in the world. It is a major center of teaching and research, comprising nine faculties, 106 departments, and 90 research institutes. Its origins go back to 1956, when three small education units – The Tel Aviv School of Law and Economics, an Institute of Natural Sciences, and an Institute of Jewish Studies – joined together to form the University of Tel Aviv.

A Role In The Peace Process

Middle Eastern history, strategic studies, and the search for peace are central concerns for Tel Aviv University researchers. The Institute for Diplomacy and Regional Cooperation, founded by the Peres Center for Peace, the Armand Hammer Fund for Economic Cooperation in the Middle East, the Moshe Dayan Center for Middle Eastern and African History, the Jaffee Center for Strategic Studies, the Tami Steinmetz Center for Peace Research and the Morris E. Curiel Center for International Studies are respected sources of information for government and private institutions, the press and the public. University scholars are putting their expertise to work for the peace process, participating in Israel’s delegations to the peace talks, and in joint projects with colleagues from neighboring countries.

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A bird waits patiently for what the cat will leave behind.

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Art was everywhere.

From one angle this sculpture looked like a butterfly, from another someone running.

You go up some white steps into a huge building and because your friends Nilly and Eitan told you the museum was free on “International Museum Day” you get to skip the cashier line.

In this museum the words captured my imagination almost more than the images did.

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We started walking through the museum during ancient times…..

Two of my favorite quotations…….

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Chodorov Synagogue Ceiling

The lovely ceiling paintings of the 17th century wooden synagogue of Chodorov were consumed by German fire in World War II. Only black and white photographs survived, but artists could use these and surviving bits of contemporaneous work to bring back to life their scampering animals and green meadows. http://www.robertwernick.com/articles/diaspora.htm

The museum has a genealogical center so I stopped to look up my family name, Lipnik. My mother’s maiden name was Horowitz and I assumed there would be thousands of hits for that, but not for Lipnik.

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You can see the computer cursor in my photo of the screen where I was researching.

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The Hebrew letter Aleph

A wonderful exhibit showed the importance of the alphabet, writing, reading and learning to Jews.

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This diorama spoke to me as I’d been practicing the Hebrew alphabet and not having an easy time. I don’t remember it being so hard as a kid.

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Newspapers took great importance to the Jewish community as it linked them to the national and social movements around the world. I remember my mother talking about family members reading the Jewish newspapers. My Aunt Jennie was quite a socialist. And my mother voted for someone Dean Alfange who ran for Governor of New York on the Socialist Labor Ticket He lost, but I won as I had his son for my Constitutional Law professor at U Mass so managed to get a B in the class after getting a D in the midterm. Actually I did really well on the final but got the D (rather than something worse) because of my mom. It probably should have been an F. I understood the work in class, but there was something about that mid-term. But none of that matters any more except as an aside to this photo.

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Now when lots of Jews leave a place they call it a “Brain Drain.”

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The Jews of Lublin Poland 1619.

Lublin once served as one the most important centers of Jewish life, commerce,

culture, and scholarship in Europe. It had the world’s largest Talmudic school. www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/vjw/Lublin.html

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Images of the Jewish world seen through a candelabra cut from the wall.

There was an exhibit devoted to the capture and trial of Adolf Eichmann. I followed the story told in the paintings by Peter Zvi Malkin. Two articles about him follow. One is his obituary from the New York Times. The other is a really fascinating article from the Smithsonian.

Chester Higgins Jr./The New York Times, 2003 http://www.nytimes.com/2005/03/03/obituaries/03malkin.html

Peter Zvi Malkin

Peter Zvi Malkin, a former Israeli intelligence agent who in 1960 captured Adolf Eichmann in Argentina, and who afterward captured him again and again on paper in his second career as a painter and writer, died on Tuesday in a rehabilitation facility in Manhattan. He was believed to be 77, and he had homes in Manhattan and Tel Aviv.

Mr. Malkin, who was recovering from a blood infection he contracted several months ago, choked to death after vomiting, Gabriel Erem, a longtime friend, said.

A Mossad agent for 27 years, Mr. Malkin was the author of a memoir, “Eichmann in My Hands” (Warner, 1990). Written with Harry Stein, it chronicles Mossad’s pursuit and capture of Eichmann, an architect of the Final Solution, the systematic Nazi program to exterminate Jews.

A master of disguises, Mr. Malkin often posed as an itinerant painter during intelligence-gathering missions. Repelled and fascinated by Eichmann during the time he spent guarding him in Argentina, he began surreptitiously sketching his portrait. Eichmann was later spirited out of the country by Mossad to stand trial in Israel; he was convicted of crimes against humanity and other charges and executed in 1962.

In an interview last night, Robert M. Morgenthau, the Manhattan district attorney, called Mr. Malkin “an absolutely extraordinary man, probably the last century’s greatest intelligence agent.” Starting in the late 1970’s, Mr. Malkin assisted Mr. Morgenthau on several cases, including the investigation of Frank Terpil, a C.I.A. operative convicted of selling weapons and explosives to Libya and Uganda. Mr. Terpil fled the United States and remains a fugitive.

A two-volume collection of Mr. Malkin’s art, “The Argentina Journal” and “Casting Pebbles on the Water With a Cluster of Colors,” was published by VWF Publishing in 2002. Mr. Malkin, who retired from Mossad in 1976, was also a private consultant on counterterrorism in later years.

Zvi Malchin was born, most likely on May 27, 1927, either in Poland (according to his son, Omer) or in British Palestine (according to Mr. Malkin’s Web site).

“With him, it depends on what passport you’re looking at,” Omer Malkin said by telephone yesterday. Mr. Malkin adopted the name Peter and anglicized the spelling of his last name as an adult, his son said.

Mr. Malkin’s son and Mr. Malkin’s Web site agree that Mr. Malkin spent his early childhood in Poland. In 1936, with rising anti-Semitism there, his family settled in Palestine. Mr. Malkin’s sister, Fruma, and her three children remained behind in Poland. All died in the Holocaust, along with many of Mr. Malkin’s other relatives.

As an adolescent, Mr. Malkin joined the Palestine Jewish underground. After the creation of the State of Israel in 1948, he was recruited by Mossad; he eventually became the organization’s chief of operations.

In the spring of 1960, Mr. Malkin was part of a team of agents sent to Buenos Aires to kidnap Eichmann, who was living in a suburb under the alias Ricardo Klement. A creature of meticulous habit, Eichmann was rigorously punctual, returning home by the same bus each evening from his job at a Mercedes-Benz factory.

On May 11, Eichmann alighted from the bus and walked toward his house on Garibaldi Street. Mr. Malkin approached him and uttered the only words of Spanish he knew, “Un momentito, Señor.” He grabbed Eichmann’s arm. As he told The New York Times in 2003, he wore gloves so he would not have to touch the man.

Concerned about bystanders, Mr. Malkin was unarmed. In an interview in 2003 with Midstream magazine, a monthly Jewish review, he explained, “Obviously, we couldn’t tell people, ‘We are going to capture Eichmann, so please stay away.’ ”

Mr. Malkin and his colleagues wrestled Eichmann into a waiting car and drove him to a “safe house,” where he was interrogated for 10 days. Standing guard over Eichmann during this time, Mr. Malkin began quietly to draw him, using the sketch pencils, acrylic paints and makeup he carried in his disguise kit.

He drew on the only surface that came to hand, a South American travel guide he had purchased for the trip. The results, portraits of Eichmann and other images of the Holocaust superimposed on yellowing pages of maps and text, are hauntingly beautiful. The images, along with Mr. Malkin’s later work, may be seen on Mr. Malkin’s Web site, www.peterzmalkin.com.

Besides his son, of Los Altos, Calif., Mr. Malkin is survived by his wife, the former Roni Thorner; two daughters, Tami and Adi, both of Israel; and eight grandchildren.

Because of the extreme secrecy Mossad demanded, Mr. Malkin for many years said nothing about his role in Eichmann’s capture. As he recounted to Midstream magazine, he broke his silence only when his mother was on her deathbed. “Mama,” he told her, “I captured Eichmann. Fruma is avenged.”

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Eichmann’s Long Hand

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December 25, 2005

Peter Zvi Malkin | b. 1927

Chasing Evil

By DANIEL BERGNER

Peter Malkin wore a pair of fur-lined leather gloves when he seized Adolf Eichmann on a street in suburban Buenos Aires. It was 1960.

For 15 years, one of the chief engineers of Hitler’s Final Solution had escaped capture. Now Malkin, the point man of a small team of clandestine Israeli agents, helped to wrestle him into the back of a waiting car and, Malkin would recount in his memoir, “Eichmann in My Hands,” written with Harry Stein, pressed his hand over Eichmann’s mouth so he could not scream. Malkin wore the gloves, he wrote, because “the thought of placing my bare hand over the mouth that had ordered the death of millions, of feeling the hot breath and saliva on my skin, filled me with an overwhelming sense of revulsion.” But the leather and fur weren’t enough. They were quickly “soaked through with his spittle.”

It was the beginning of strange intimacy. Malkin – whose sister had been killed along with her children in Poland during the Holocaust, after Malkin, his two brothers and his parents managed to flee to Palestine – had already prepared a bedroom for Eichmann in the safe house where the agents would keep him hidden until, against international law, they could spirit him out of Argentina to stand trial in Israel. Malkin had made the bed with fresh sheets and laid out a towel and toiletries and a pair of striped pajamas. The room, where Malkin would spend much of the next 10 days in solo shifts watching over one of the 20th century’s greatest murderers, was spare and tiny; captor and captive, alone, were never more than two or three steps apart. A blanket covered the only window.

Malkin would wash and shave Eichmann’s face, tracing, over and over, the contours of his cheeks and jaw. Malkin fed him, lifting a spoon to his lips, and dressed and undressed him. (The memoir implies that Eichmann’s hands were kept loosely bound, yet the leader of the Israeli team, Rafi Eitan, told me recently that, after the first day, Eichmann’s hands were not bound during the daytime.) Malkin held Eichmann’s hands, aiding him as he did deep knee bends for exercise.

And when Eichmann said that he adored fine red wine, Malkin stole an expensive bottle that another agent had been saving for the Sabbath. He served him wine and played him music – a flamenco, a tango – on an old wind-up record player.

Partly, Malkin wrote, his ministering to Eichmann was an attempt to preserve him for public justice. In captivity, Eichmann became passive and seemed utterly incapable of caring for himself (Malkin had to bark orders at him to get him to move his bowels), and Malkin worried that his body and mind would deteriorate irreparably before he could be put on trial. Partly, too, Malkin’s caring was calculated seduction: he hoped that Eichmann would reveal the whereabouts of the fugitive Nazi doctor Josef Mengele, and that Eichmann would sign a document stating that he was traveling to Israel to stand trial of his own free will. But meanwhile, in a way, the killer became Malkin’s muse.

Malkin – an explosives specialist in the fight for Israeli statehood before he was recruited into the Israeli intelligence services – was an expert in disguises and an amateur painter, avid and skilled. Within the room’s close walls, with oil-based pencils from his disguise kit, he began to evoke Eichmann on the pages of a guidebook to South America, which he’d brought along on the mission. The first portrait (above) was done in black and gray on a map of Argentina. Eichmann might simply be a tired clerk, an accountant worn down by numbers, with just a tentative suggestion of emotional depth, of self-reflection, of conscience, in the blurred black irises of the eyes.

“Then I flipped the page and did him in his SS regalia,” Malkin wrote. “I continued drawing in a kind of frenzy. Now I had him watching a railroad train, counting the cars; now in abstract, lying prone atop a flatcar, bearing a machine gun; now, on facing pages, appeared Hitler and Mussolini; now my parents and, in muted pastels, her eyes immense and brooding, my sister, Fruma.”

As days and nights went by, Malkin told none of the other agents about his portraits of their prisoner; Eichmann was the only one who knew, remarking, when Malkin turned the guidebook and showed him a work in progress, an image of himself, “Nice. Very nice.” Nor, at first, did Malkin tell anyone about their conversations: dialogues spurred by Malkin’s questions about the killer’s motives; talks driven by the prisoner’s fear for his family; chats about music or the pair’s “shared love of nature and the wild.” Malkin wasn’t supposed to converse with Eichmann at all; talk was to be left to sessions with the team’s official, harsh-tongued interrogator. And except as Eichmann ate or went to the bathroom, he was supposed to be kept blindfolded. Malkin broke this rule as well. “We found ourselves co-conspirators of a sort,” he wrote. “He knew as well as I did to fall silent at the sound of approaching footsteps.”

The touching of the face; the portraiture; the talks of Eichmann’s beloved young son and of all the children, like Fruma’s, he had sent to death (discussions during which Malkin barely controlled his voice and his rage, as he strained to coax words from Eichmann that would somehow offer explanation of his deeds); the removal of the blindfold – Malkin wanted desperately to see into him. By the end of the 10 days, the memoir relates, another of the agents, the team’s only woman, would accuse Malkin: “You act like you’re in love with him.” But the object of desire was elusive. In words, Eichmann gave up little beyond versions of what he would ultimately claim in court in Jerusalem, that in orchestrating the killing of millions he had merely followed orders. And in art, Malkin could create of Eichmann only unyielding surfaces.

During the years to come, Malkin would rise to be chief of operations in the Mossad, Israel’s famed intelligence agency. Later, in retirement, he devoted himself to his art. He collected and painted on maps from all over the world. Israel Perry, the owner of the Manhattan gallery that represents Malkin’s work, told me that Malkin used the maps for inspiration, to pull himself back into the past, back toward people and scenes that had floated by in his widely traveled, covert life. In this way, he found other subjects, other faces besides Eichmann’s; in this way, perhaps, he found other, easier paths to the human soul.

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Visiting some Israeli Military Museums

May 31, 2012

Ashdod Marina

Israel

Shalom from Ashdod,

   Yesterday we rolled our way to Ashdod, as in roll to the port side then roll to the starboard side, then roll to the port side, then starboard, then port, then starboard from when we left Herzliya just past 8 am until about noon when we arrived in Ashdod.  I took a preventive sea sick pill ( after being on land for a month I need a bit of help with my sea legs) and so I was fine.  I can’t say that about everyone.  But it all worked out.  I drove most of the way, but it was simple because we just drove south with land on our port.  Randal drove past the big Port of Ashdod with the huge cargo ships were anchored and then into the marina.  Our friend Eve and marina manager Yoram Greenberg were there to catch our lines.  Instantly DoraMac attracted attention and right after lunch I gave a boat tour while Randal attached a new plug to our power cord so we could plug into the marina power source. 

  After an afternoon rest, Linda, Charmaine and I walked the 15 minutes to an area with an Art Museum and Center, mall and supermarket.  On Wednesday there is an open market that we will visit next week.  It is just a walk down the beach.

  So that’s it.

Ru

I honestly can’t keep the different parts that eventually came to make up the Israel Dense Forces straight. What I will always remember about the IDF are the young, khaki-uniformed Israeli “soldiers.” You see them everywhere. “Because of Israel’s small size, soldiers often travel from front to home, a commute that is rarely more than two hours.” The Israelis by Donna Rosenthal. And I’ll remember coming into Israel and having to answer questions over the VHF radio to prove we weren’t enemy. But they weren’t scary people over the radio nor when we got to the Herzliya Marina and had to answer more questions. What was the hardest question to answer in a way they could understand, and they never did, was that I had no family or friends in Israel, had never been before, and wasn’t planning to move permanently. And the Israeli Naval ship, docked across from us at the marina, that broadcasts pop music at night and what sounds like prayers in the morning.

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They look like kids on their way to a college class, and it the US they very well would be. In Israel right after high school comes military service; boys serve 3 years and girls 2. I saw them while I was walking in Tel Aviv from the Diaspora Museum to the Eretz Israel Museum several weeks ago.

History:

The IDF was formed out of a number of armed groups which operated before 1948. The Haganah (Defense), the semi-legal defense organization of the Jewish Yishuv in Palestine, was established in 1920 to defend Jewish settlements from Arab attacks. During the Arab Revolt which began in 1936, differences of opinion emerged within the Haganah regarding defense policy. While the Haganah followed a policy of restraint and carried out only defensive actions, those who called for retaliatory measures broke off in 1937 to form the Irgun Zvai Leumi (National Military Organization) or IZL. When the IZL decided to cooperate with Britain after the outbreak of the Second World War, a small group seceded and created the Lochamei Herut Israel (Freedom Fighters for Israel) known as the Lechi. During the spring of 1941, the Haganah formed the Palmach (Striking Companies), a mobile force of full-time soldiers, in order to assist the British in defending Palestine from Rommel’s offensive which by this time had reached the borders of Egypt. These various forces, which continued to exist until 1948, maintained separate political allegiances. The Haganah, formed by the Histadrut (the Jewish Federation of Labor) and taken over by the Jewish Agency after the Arab riots of 1929, enjoyed the widest support within the Yishuv. The IZL had close connections with the non-socialist Revisionists and most of the Palmach leadership was associated with Achdut HaAvoda, the Labor Party’s primary rival from the left. The Lechi included individuals from across the political spectrum who were united by their support of an unrelenting struggle against the British administration in Palestine. On May 26, 1948, the Israeli Provisional Government issued Order No. 4 which established the Israel Defense Forces and explicitly prohibited the maintenance of any other armed forces within the territory of the state. During the following months, the IZL, the Lechi and the Palmach were absorbed into the IDF, which became a non-political, tightly controlled and centralized body. http://www.jewishagency.org/JewishAgency/English/Jewish+Education/ Compelling+Content/Eye+on+Israel/Society/9)The+Role+of+the+Military +in+Israel.htm

Randal and I visited the Palmach Museum, the Etzel Museum and the Hagana Museum all museums dedicated to the history and importance of these military/defense organizations to the existence of Israel. My favorite was the Palmach Museum where you “joined” a group of new recruits in Palestine and remained with them through their training and through the battles of 1948. Some of them lived, some were wounded and some were killed. It was a very moving exhibit done through a series of videos as you moved from location “sets” through the museum watching their lives unfold.

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House of the Palmach…The Palmach Museum

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Artist Ludwig Blum’s son and 12 fellow soldiers were killed attempting to destroy a British bridge in 1946. Blum’s portrait of Moshe Dayan 1949

Ludwig Blum

Blum served in the Austrian army in WWI, a war in which his older brother was killed. A fervent Zionist, he moved to Israel in 1923. His eldest son was killed in a military operation in 1946; Blum himself served in the civil guard in 1947–48, remaining in Jerusalem throughout the War of Independence. During the war, Blum made a series of portraits of Jewish freedom fighters, all wearing the firm but emotionally restrained expression that Blum projected onto his canvases. http://www.jewishideasdaily.com/content/module/2011/12/15/main-feature/1/the-stoic-vision-of-ludwig-blum

While I’m writing about the Palmach, I’m going to include a former member who most of the world knows for a totally different reason than the defense of Israel; Vidal Sassoon.

“In 1948, as the British Mandate was drawing to a close, Sassoon arrived in Palestine where he joined the Palmach in the fight for Israel’s independence. In the manner of the young men and women who had flocked to Spain in the previous decade to fight on the Republican side during the Civil War, Sassoon’s decision to participate in the Zionist struggle for independence, like that of the other volunteers who came from Europe and America, was rooted in a commitment to Jewish pride and honor.

“That was the best year of my life,” Sassoon later told a British newspaper. “When you think of 2,000 years of being put down and suddenly you are a nation rising, it was a wonderful feeling. There were only 600,000 people defending the country against five armies, so everyone had something to do.” Sassoon served in combat. “I wasn’t going over there to sit in an office,” he told the Jewish Chronicle. “I thought if we don’t fight for a piece of land and make it work, then the whole Holocaust thing was a terrible waste. But this way at least we got a country out of it.”

http://www.tabletmag.com/jewish-news-and-politics/99345/vidal-sassoon-streetfighter

The next two military museums we visited were the ETZEL Museum and the Hagana Museum this past Monday.

Center Israel Tours:

Etzel Museum -Tales from the underground

By: LYDIA AISENBERG Photo : LYDIA AISENBERG

The Etzel Museum in Tel Aviv tells of heroic battles against the British and Arabs, but also the chilling story of Jews fighting Jews.

With the green lawns of the Charles Clore Park on three sides and the azure waters of the Mediterranean on the fourth, the stone and black glass Etzel Museum building on the Tel Aviv shoreline is certainly impressive. A blue cloudless sky and attractive layered Jaffa skyline in the near distance are additional factors making the museum building stand out – while at the same time somehow blending in with its surroundings.

An enormous Israeli flag flaps high in the sea breeze above the museum, built over the ruins of a former Ottoman-period building. The museum is dedicated to the memory of operations officer Amihai (Gidi) Paglin and 41 fighters of the pre-state paramilitary Etzel (an acronym for Irgun Zvai Leumi, or National Military Organization) who fell in the campaign to conquer the nearby Arab town of Jaffa, and also documents other battles that Etzel members fought in during the 1947-8 War of Independence.

Active in Palestine from 1931 to 1948, the Jewish underground organization retaliated against attacks by Arabs on the Jewish population and rebelled against the British government’s ‘White Paper’ policy that imposed restrictions on Jewish immigration to Palestine.

The integration of the Etzel fighters into the newly-formed Israel Defense Forces (IDF) was brokered in an agreement signed between then-I.Z.L. Commander-in-Chief Menachem Begin and Israel Galili on behalf of the government of Israel. But even after the agreement was signed, there remained a great deal of bitterness between Begin and Ben-Gurion and their supporters, much of which centered around the June 1948 Altalena affair when Palmah soldiers attacked an arms-carrying Etzel ship close to the Tel Aviv shore.

The Etzel Museum on the Tel Aviv beachfront belongs to the Museums Unit of the Ministry of Defense, which explains the four “girl soldier-guides” manning the reception desk. The day Metro visited, the museum was empty, apart from the soldiers and a young security guard – which on the one hand was useful as nobody got in the way of photographs or obliterated the prolific texts alongside exhibits, but on the other was a little eerie.

On the beach immediately across the promenade from the museum a few dozen mostly young Israelis sunbathed or rode surfboards close to the shore. A foreign television crew was busy setting up equipment in the shade at the side of the building, as a municipal worker attempted to clean the pathway around them. (Same when we went, empty except for an auditorium full of soldiers and some who, on their cell phones, yakked it up where we were watching the video so an older, museum man told them to be quiet. We bought senior tickets, and paid the extra 5 shekels for the “Military Museums group ticket. There was a mix of Hebrew and English at the displays and they switched the video about Etzel history to English when I thought to ask. )

The first portion of the museum deals with the organizational structure of the Etzel. A map of Israel according to the UN partition resolution of November 29, 1947 is displayed on one wall, alongside another map with the boundaries of Israel following the armistice agreements of July 1949.

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1947 Map (my photo)

The map is accompanied by explanations and documents of the Etzel’s response to the partition plan and the hostilities that broke out after the plan was announced.

A model of steel helmeted soldiers defending their post, surrounded by sandbags and barbed wire, greets the visitor on the first corner turned in the museum, set out in serpentine fashion. An electronic map serves as an introduction to the entire exhibit showing Etzel positions, attacks and raids and the capture of Arab villages during 1947 and 1948, including the infamous attack on the village of Deir Yassin in the Jerusalem corridor. Maps, documents and photographs are on display as well as a diorama presenting the heroism of two Etzel women fighters, who chose death over surrender, in the battle for Yehudiya.

Up on the next floor one finds a description of the attack on Ramle. Fifty-one Etzel fighters died in the battle and many were wounded. On the same floor an area focuses on the fighters’ training and purchase of arms, as well as somewhat tongue-in-cheek details of the ‘requisitions’ of British ammunitions, which included 20,000 81mm mortar bombs swiped from a British train transporting ammunition to Arab fighters in Gaza.

Following the infiltration of a British army camp near Pardess Hanna, Etzel fighters also ‘requisitioned’ weapons, ammunition and an armored vehicle from the British paratroopers stationed at what is today a large IDF training base known as Mahane 80 on the main Wadi Ara highway.

A large exhibition is dedicated to battles waged in the liberation of Jerusalem, and operations with the pre-state Haganah and Lehi militias. Two interesting dioramas deal with a stronghold of the British in the city, Zion Gate and in the background, the Old City of Jerusalem.

Another section concentrates on operations in the north such as the battle at Mishmar Hayarden, cooperation between forces of the Haganah and Etzel in the defense of Safed, and the taking of the Wadi Nisnas Arab neighborhood in Haifa – in present times the venue for an annual co-existence festival of art, music and culinary delights held during the month of the Hannuka, Christmas and Ramadan holidays.

The last section of the museum deals with the Altalena incident. The Etzel’s armaments-carrying ship had embarked from the port of Marseilles. Upon arrival at the shore of the newly-founded State of Israel opposite Kfar Vitkin, Ben-Gurion’s demands that the armaments be handed over to the unified Jewish forces were refused. An attack on the ship was ordered, and a massive explosion set off by a shell destroyed the ship and cargo.

So what did I learn from visiting the military museums? For the most part, Jews pretty much only had themselves to depend upon. That the people who came to Palestine and worked to make it into the State of Israel have a great deal to be proud of. That the military museums in Israel make you see that it’s really as much the story of people as weapons and artillery. That Israel is a huge success story given all it has had to fight against. What they don’t talk about is how to make peace. And I don’t remember seeing any mention of help from American Jews. But then military museums are for boasting about a country’s military history and success. I found myself getting stuck again with what to write. Going to the military museums was a bit like going to Jerusalem, just feelings. How half of the military struggle was to smuggle Jews out of refugee detention camps in Europe and Cyprus and smuggle them into Israel. The Exodus movie is based on a true story. So anyway, I’m going to slap my hands together as our friend Eve does and say, “it’s finished.”

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“I was with my regiment in Givat Haim….when I was ordered to arrive a the shore to intercept a boat carrying weapons. I asked, whose boat is that? Just a boat, they told me. What boat? I insisted, finally they told me it was an Etzel boat. I said I could not possibly fight against it. Are you disobeying orders? They demanded. I said, definitely! I have a brother in the Etzel and they might be there. What do you want, for me to kill them? That a man will fire on his brother?…” Shalom and several others who would not fire, were arrested. “A few days later,” Shalom tells, “they brought us before three judges…I was asked, ‘will you die for your country? Fighting its enemies?’ I told them the Etzel and Lehi were not the country’s enemies. Later they let us go”.. from an Etzel Museum handout.

The exhibit dealing with the Altalena is the last section of the museum. A large encased flag of Israel, flown on the deck of the Altalena, hangs on the wall. In the accompanying text one reads that the flag was saved minutes before the ship blew up, an Etzel fighter risking life and limb in an effort to rescue it.

Under a model of the ship, photographs and additional text, a large white lifebelt from the ship is propped up against the wall, the name ALTALENA silently shrieking of the tragic circumstances that brought Jews to battle Jews in the State of Israel – appropriately memorialized in a museum just meters from the sea. http://www.jposttravel.com/center_tours/etzel.html?image.x=23&image.y=6

Our final military museum was the Hagana Museum which we visited because we’d bought that “group ticket” and because we passed by it going somewhere else. By that point we were military museumed out. http://www.hagana.co.il/show_item.asp?itemId=54&levelId=60321&itemType=0 is the official site of the Hagana.

“Hagana was founded in 1920 to defend the Jewish community in Palestine against Arab violence. It fought and repelled murderous attacks in 1920,1929 and throughout the Arab rebellion in 1936-1939. In the Second World War Hagana was deployed to fight an eventual German invasion. It also mobilized 30,000 to fight with Britain against the Nazi enemy, and participated in the conquest of Lebanon and Syria. After the war Hagana launched in Palestine a civilian and armed struggle against the British authorities, which blocked immigration of Holocaust survivors and banned new Jewish settlements”

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Personalizing history: seeing Eliahu Golomb’s somavar made me think of the one we had at home so that’s the photo I took away from the Hagana Museum.

A somavar in the home of Eliahu Golomb, the founder and leader of the Hagana who lived there and operated from it until his death 11 6 1945. His house served as the central headquarters for the Haganah.

The Hagana Museum describes the horrors of the situation in the country on the eve of the formation of the Hagana organization, the activities of the organization in the efforts to get a Jewish state, the development of the organization and its achievements. The main exhibition is arranged according to thirty subjects, tracing Israel’s defense history from 1878, when the first "shomrim" or watchmen were organized to protect the early settlers, through the Haganah’s establishment in June 1920, the quelling of disturbances in the 1920’s and 30’s, and the struggle against the British authorities up to the War of Independence. http://ilmuseums.com/museum_eng.asp?id=61

The Hagana Museum on Rothschild Avenue is the central museum for the history of the Hagana, the Jewish military organization for the defense of the Jewish settlements during the time of the British Mandate in the Land of Israel. The Hagana Museum is housed inside one of Tel Aviv’s first houses which served as the central headquarters for the activity of the Hagana Organization. The Hagana Museum spreads over three floors and tells the story of the development of the central defense force of the Jewish settlement during the British Mandate. At the Hagana Museum are displayed a collection of weapons, documents, photographs and certificates, which describe the history of the organization- its first days and its great importance for the defense of the Jewish settlements during the Arab attacks, the foundation of the Jewish "Tower and Stockade” settlements, the Jewish clandestine immigration into Israel, the Jewish War of Independence, the foundation of the State of Israel and the Israel Defense Forces. The house in which the Hagana Museum is housed used to be the home of Eliyahu Golomb, one of the founders and leaders of the Hagana and is also considered an architectural gem. It has illustrated tiles, stone carpets and decorated walls. In two of the rooms the original furniture remains and one can learn from it about the way of life of the time in old Tel Aviv. The Hagana Museum named after Eliyahu Golomb belongs to the Museums Unit of the Israeli Ministry of Defense.

http://www.israeltraveler.org/en/site/defence-museum