Cappadocia Day Two

Merhaba

Shalom and Happy Passover too

  There were 24 of us on the bus trip plus Taṣ our guide and Kohan (sp) our driver.  It was a great group with about a dozen variations of English being spoken!  Our pals Mary and Rick were there too which made it more fun for us.  We didn’t have to plan or make decisions…other than when to go to dinner or be ready for the bus.  The group voted and everyone good accepted the decisions.  Occasionally someone was “last” onboard, but not by more than a few minutes.  There’s something to be said for letting someone else make the plans and just having to show up!

Ru

                Eḡirdir Morning

I love Eḡrdir more for its mountains than the lake, unusual for me as used to not be a “mountain person.”   It’s one of those places that if you hit it just right your first visit, and Randal and I did, you always love it.  http://www.mydoramac.com/wordpress/?p=7322 is the story of our first visit with lots of photos and information about the area.  This time Eḡirdir was a quick overnight stop on our way to Cappadocia. 

I have two Eḡirdir stories from this visit. I’d decided to bring my laptop on this trip rather than our travel computer so I could download photos and begin to work on these emails.  That meant I was in charge of the computer, electrical cords and adaptors needed for it to work in the hotel electrical outlets.  I brought the wrong adaptor!  That meant we couldn’t recharge the computer or my lithium camera batteries.  Not a good thing.  Randal didn’t kill me.  He just went with me for a walk around town looking for adaptors.  We knew the town from our prior visit and we borrowed an adaptor from the hotel desk clerk to show what we needed which helped a lot.   It was about 6 PM and getting dark and cold.  Many shops were already closed or closing.  We did find one shop that sold a variety of things and went inside.  A young boy about 10 was there and shook his head no when we showed him what we needed.  But then he motioned for us to wait and went to get his father.  His dad immediately started calling around and found a shop that sold adaptors and then told his son to take us there.  It was a few streets over, not far.  But the young boy was not familiar with it so he stopped in a bakery and asked then doubled back to the correct street where the shop was located.  Once we were inside and being helped he quickly left the shop heading home.  I had to call after him as we wanted to give him a few liras to thank him. He smile and thanked me for them but there was every indication that he had not expected it at all.   He was polite and helpful and we weren’t the least bit surprised as we’d come to expect this type of behavior in the Turkish interior towns.

My second story is that the next morning I got myself up and out of the hotel by 6 am to take a walk through Eḡirdir.  It was cold and windy.  The sun was struggling to get itself up.  There were even snow flurries.  But I knew my way around so it was easy to get up and go and not worry about finding my way.  Breakfast didn’t begin until 7 am and we weren’t boarding the bus until 9 am, so I had time for my walk.

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The fortress

 

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The peninsular where we’d had dinner and where Randal and I had stayed at Ali’s Pension in 2011.

 

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I love the old wood and stone buildings…some abandoned Greek homes.

 

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I especially love the mountain behind the town.  We motorbiked up part way last visit.

 

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Modern rugs and lamps with designs  tied to tradition.

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Looking back towards Eḡirdir as we traveled towards Beyṣehir and Konya.

 

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Eḡirdir is famous for its apples so Taṣ stopped and bought us some local apples.  These were last year’s crop, but still good!

 

http://www.mydoramac.com/wordpress/?m=201107 is the story of our amazing motorbike ride to Beysehir from Eḡrdir and our visit to Konya and the Whirling Dervishes in 2011.

The plan this trip was to go directly to Konya and visit the Mevlana Museum and the Selimiye Mosque.  But the mosque was closed for renovation so we stopped in Beyṣehir and visited the Esrefoglu Mosque instead.

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Beyṣehir Esrefoglu Mosque…a wonderful spur of the moment stop.

Randal and I had stayed overnight in Beyṣehir in 2011 and had visited this mosque in the old Ottoman part of the city and I’d found it quite lovely. http://www.turkishculture.org/architecture/mosques/seljuk-mosques/esrefoglu-mosque-855.htm

describes the mosque and tells its history.

http://www.mydoramac.com/wordpress/?p=7419   is our earlier visit to Beyṣehir. http://www.mydoramac.com/wordpress/?m=201107 is our visit to Konya

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Taṣ had located and called the mosque’s cleric who graciously agreed to give us a tour. We learned that the entrance way to the side   He also later sang some of the prayers for us and his voice was really sweet. 

“Near the front of the worship space is a structure called the Minbar, the raised steps from which the imam delivers the sermon at the Friday prayer. Near the Minbar stands a roofed niche called the Mihrab. This nook indicates the direction of the Ka’aba, the cube-shaped building in Mecca that is the most sacred site in Islam. All mosques are built facing the Ka’aba, and Muslims should always face in this direction while praying.

The words of the Quran, the holy book that Muslims hold to be the words of Allah (God) revealed to the prophet Muhammad in the 7th century, are everywhere in the prayer hall, often in flowing Arabic script. The hall may also be decorated with intricate patterns running the length of the walls, pillars, ceilings and floors. Pictures or statues are absent, in observation of the warning in the Hadith (the sayings, actions or traditions of Muhammad and his companions that are not part of the Quran) that depictions of living things can lead to idolatry.” http://www.lifeslittlemysteries.com/791-inside-mosque-muslim-worship-allah.html

 

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We learned that in the design were the Arabic letters for the word Allah.  And the entrance way to the Minbar is quite narrow so that anyone entering must not have over-indulged in food.  If you can see them, Taṣ is wearing some knitted gloves he bought from the local women selling their crafts just outside the mosque. 

 

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The design represented the earth with the stars and solar system surrounding it.

 

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The beautiful blue ceramic tiles

 

From the Beyṣehir we drove on to Konya for lunch and to visit the home of the Whirling Dervishes

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Where locals go for pide.

 

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Pide is Turkish pizza!

 

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I ate it all!

The crust is thin and crisp and dripping with thinly melted cheese and olive oil.  Or bits of grilled meat.  It was after 2 pm so we were actually quite hungry and dinner was a long way off in Avanos, Cappadocia.

 

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The turquoise tomb of M. J. Rumi founder of the Dervish order.

 

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Waiting in line

 

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Headscarves are rare in Marmaris but quite common inland. 

 

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Shops selling dervish memories. 

 

It was a quick stop in Konya.  Soon we were on the buses and off to Avanos our base from which we’d visit what we know as Cappadocia but what is called in Turkish Kapadokya.

Cappadocia trip Day 1

Merhaba,

  I think I could be a permanent vagabond.  Or maybe not.  Going to new places and seeing unique old architecture, strange and vast new geologic formations and sampling new foods broadens every horizon you have.  Finding hotels, transport, schedules etc..not so fun on a permanent basis.  I absolutely love letting someone else do the cooking and dish washing.  We arrived back in Marmaris about 7 pm last night and today went back to our regular schedule; laundry, listen to the morning NET, go to the Thursday market. 

  I am glad that we had this chance to visit Cappadocia.  I can’t imagine coming here to Turkey and missing it though we will miss lots of other spectacular areas especially in the eastern part of the country.  In a few weeks we’ll set off again to Ankara and surrounding areas where everything will be new to us.  This trip we revisited places from our motorbike trip but in doing so saw things we’d missed.  I loved the wildness of Sagalssos even in the blustery winds.  Cappadocia was a modern Fantasia designed by Georgia O’Keefe.  Lake Eḡirdir will always be a favorite memory. 

So here’s the story starting with Day 1 from Marmaris to Lake Eḡirdir

Ru

Cappadocia Day 1

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We boarded the bus at 6:30 am with only a mild gray drizzle rather than the forecasted heavy rain and our weather luck held the whole trip.  Our first stop a few hours later was the West Café & Bistro in Gocek.  It was our second breakfast of the day so I went easy; Randal went for it all. 

 

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www.westcafegocek.net

You can get a full American breakfast with bacon and eggs…or grilled cheese toast.  It’s a favorite café in a favorite cruisers’ bay.  Our pal Eve especially liked Gocek when she was cruising in Turkey.

 

Our overnight stop, Lake Eḡirdir was a day’s drive which was broken up by breakfast, a light lunch and several “comfort stops and a visit to Sagalassos and Isparta.

 

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Marta Evi translates to the House of Mushrooms…. Our second stop of the day.

Finding spots that can feed 26 people quickly with good and also interesting food, means short stops between eating or sometimes long stops between eating.  Our first day had short stops so no one was overly hungry when we arrive here about noon after the stop in Gocek.  That, of course, did not stop us from eating. 

 

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Mushroom soup with mushroom bread!

Soup and bread were delicious.  The soup was garnished with a lovely sprig of rosemary.

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Natural mushroom bread..we would call it “homemade” mushroom bread which is bread with bits of mushroom in it

 

So now that we’d eaten our way along it was time to stop and work it off.  And what an amazing place to do that, Sagalassos. 

“The archaeological site of Sagalassos is located in southwest Turkey, near the present town of Ağlasun (Burdur province); roughly 110 km to the north of the well-known port and holiday resort of Antalya. The ancient city was founded on the south facing slopes of the Taurus mountain range and was the metropolis of the Roman province of Pisidia. Next to its mountainous landscape, a series of lakes form another typical feature of the regional geography. Today this region is known as the Lake District.” http://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/5409/

http://www.sagalassos.be/  also has lots of info too.  Both Internet sites can answer all of your questions about Sagalssos.  I just enjoyed walking around in the beautiful mountain setting.  It was cold, overcast, windy and just perfect!  The views of the valley and snow-capped mountains were breath taking in their starkness.  I love the wild open spaces, scrub, stone and dessert.  The only thing missing were sheep, goats and donkeys.

 

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We made a very quick stop in Isparta for folks to purchase products made from roses. 

http://www.mydoramac.com/wordpress/?p=7352 tells the story of our first visit to Isparta and how an Isparta government official Bulent Akbas arranged with his friend the Mayor of Guneykent, Fahretdin Gozgun, a tour of the rose fields for us guided by a wonderful young man named Emre Yalcinkaya and an equally helpful Guneykent employee to drive us through the hills.  I totally recommend a visit to Guneykent for anyone interested in the rose industry in the Isparta area.

 

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Taṣ and his friend who owns Kebapçı Kadir just near the clock tower in Isparta. http://www.kebapcikadir.com.tr/  which according to their web page has been in existence since 1851.

It was getting cold and damp so Randal and I skipped the shopping area for some tea.  In Lake Eḡirdir I was hoping to buy more of the cheapo rose cream I’d bought last time so skipped the rose shops in Isparta. 

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As we were leaving Isparta  this lady came aboard to sell dried rose petals.

The bag of of dried rose petals was only 5 TL so Randal and I bought one.  We like to buy local products when we can.  I had no clue what we’d do with the petals but that’s not always the point.  We just wanted to be supportive of this lady.  (Actually they are now sitting in the corner of our front head which should be a good thing.)

 

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Our final stop Day 1 was Lake Eḡirdir, a favorite place from our 2011 motorbike trip.

http://www.mydoramac.com/wordpress/?p=7322 tells that story.

 

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Dinner at a Big Fish Restaurant on the tip of the island where we ate locally caught perch.

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A final photo before heading back to the hotel and a good night sleep as I planned to get up (and did) go for a 6 am walk through Eḡirdir the next morning.   That story next.