Cherbourg, France part 1

HI,

Had a lovely day with cruising friends Steve and Valerie.  We’d last seen Valerie in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia many years ago and Steve more recently, but also years.  No matter, we just picked up from where we’d left off.  They live about 90 minutes from here and drove over to see us and then took us off to a lovely village in the country for a stroll, tea at the old church and then a pub stop.  It was great.  Doubly great after our disappointment this morning trying to visit HMS Victory at the historic dock.  We took the ferry over to Portsmouth side to be there 10 am when it opened but it was part of the venue of an all day festival sold old ages ago.  Not one of the 50,000 tickets left.  So we took the ferry back and spent the morning in Gasport going to Morrison’s for a few groceries, to a bedding shop for our new warm duvet, and then a book shop where the paperbacks were 3 for 5 pounds.  I also bought a book for 1.99 pounds called Green Men & White Swans : the Folklore of British Pub Names by Jacqueline Simpson.  Should be fun reading. 

Tomorrow at daylight we’re off to East Bourne about 61 miles away.  Hoping the tides won’t be too terribly awful and make the passage take forever.  The 73 miles Cherbourg took 15 hours because of the adverse currents.  The weather is supposed to be pleasant when we start off, so that’s good at least. 

We have loved Gasport and hope to take the train back to spend time across the way visiting Portsmouth.  So nice to be in England!

Ru

Cherbourg for a Day

“First of all by its maritime temper. Located on the Channel, near the Anglo-Norman islands, close to the English coast, Cherbourg is at the heart of an exceptional nautical dock, with a huge sea wall and its dikes, monumental architectural masterpiece from the 18th century. This sea wall offers an ideal space to practice nautical sports.

… with its architectural and botanical heritage. Its Italian style theatre, its churches, its museums, its secret streets boarded by blue schist houses, or its former transatlantic harbour station. Flagship of the Art Deco, it shelters today La Cité de la Mer, theme park dedicated to the human adventure under water where you can discover a nuclear submarine (the only one you can visit in the world) and an abyssal aquarium. The town cultivates an exceptional botanical heritage, inherited from the sailors, scientists and adventurers which stopped over in this port.

   Town of history, of culture and of travellers, Cherbourg possesses a long welcoming tradition. It lives with intensity, following the rhythm of great events such as regattas, the 9th art biennial, the botanical event Presqu’île en Fleurs… and welcomes cruisers all year round.”

http://www.ville-cherbourg.fr/en/public/tourist/

http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/109354/Cherbourg will tell you the history if you want to read about it. 

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DoraMac on dock H, a visitor dock just near the marina entrance.

The docks float up and down with the tide and you can see the variation on the piling; how much of it is under-water at high tide.

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This is low tide.

At high tide the ramp is almost horizontal. 

The statue of Napoleon in the park just outside the marina

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J’avais besoin de renouveler à Cherbourg les merveilles de l’egypte  or something that looks like that is written on the base of the statue. 

“I needed to renew the wonders of Cherbourg Egypt” is how Google translates it but I think it must be not quite right.  Maybe Napoleon needs to reproduce the wonders of Egypt in Cherbourg. 

“The statue of Napoleon has stood in Cherbourg for well over a hundred years causing little or no controversy. During the occupation the statue became a strange focus of early unrest for the Germans. The German General who was in charge of the garrison in the city at the time of the American entry into the war, was reported in the press as saying that Napoleon was pointing the way to the defeat of America.     Members of the Resistance painted onto the base of the statue that Napoleon was in fact pointing the way out of Russia for the Germans.   The Germans painted out the graffiti, but some days later more slogans appeared.   This went on for some weeks and finally the general lost patience and shot Napoleon in the leg with his pistol. Not content with that he also shot the horse in the neck.

You can still see both bullet holes to this day. This was not the only early defiance against the Germans. Three sisters used to regularly walk along the sea front on summer days wearing Red, White and blue dresses.  On one occasion a local football team turned out against a German team wearing Blue socks, White shorts and Red shirts.”

http://www.normandy1944.org.uk/napoeloen.htm

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See the dark hole on the boot: perhaps the bullet hole

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Basilica of the Holy Trinity

“Among the religious buildings, visit the Basilica of the Holy Trinity, which, according to tradition, was built by St. Ereptiole in 435, destroyed by the Normans in 841; then it was rebuilt and reconstructed in various ways over the centuries. The last large destruction took place during the World War II.

   The church, rebuilt after the war (very wide, 46 meters long and 28 wide) has three naves, with four large side chapels; the Tower, built in the First half of the 19th century, is over 20 metres high. It owns valuable and antiques paintings, such as "The Visit of the Holy Women at the tomb of Jesus" by Flemish painter Gaspard Crayer (1582-1669), and the “Adoration of the Shepherds” by Philippe de La Hire (1640-1718).”

http://www.francethisway.com/places/cherbourg.php

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Huge organ

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Light and dark

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20th Century Stained Glass Windows by Jean Gaudin

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Reflected light and painted columns were my favorite part.

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Garden of the small book shop where I bought the tiniest Larousse French/Anglais dictionary on earth that fits my palm. 

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The music shop across the street

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Pastries and Flowers : how French!

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And outdoor cafes

The man to the far left enters our story below…

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He saw us admiring his 3 wheeled motorcycle

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Randal got to sit at the helm

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Kids and fountains

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Fruit cheese wine

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How French… all she need is a bouquet of flowers and a baguette in her straw basket

AND A BIKE HELMET !!!

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I thought this place was so cute when Randal and I passed by in the morning.  Later, about 1:45 when I stopped by  I was told one couldn’t order just tea as it was a restaurant, not a tea shop.  I found someplace else, but that’s a later story…

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A tea shop; which often doesn’t serve lunch, but not where I had my tea

In England

Hi All,

  “Two countries separated by a common language” is what we’ve heard several times.  But so far we can understand everything everyone has said.  Even when they speed talk like the guys in the phone shop because phone shops always have waiting lines.  But he was really helpful so we have phones and wifi dongles.  Hurrah!  We also gained an hour coming here from France. 

    The folks here at the marina are really nice and helpful.  We were to call them on channel 80 as we were arriving to see if they had a berth for us.  We’d emailed ahead but they said to check as we were arriving as this is Bank Holiday weekend so very busy.  Our passage was 75 miles from Cherbourg with the tides against us too much of the way but not particularly rolly.  We  left Cherbourg 5:15 am and arrived in Portsmouth 8pm Cherbourg time but 7 pm Portsmouth time.  As for calling the marina on channel 80; we could calEnglandl them but because we have an American radio our channel 80 won’t receive in England so we couldn’t hear them.  We could hear other boats having conversations with the marina, though we couldn’t hear the marina’s responses.  So we just got here and tied ourselves up.  When I walked to the office to tell them we were here, they said they’d heard us calling the past 90 minutes!  Actually they heard us maybe a total of 3 minutes but spread out over 90 minutes so that’s not so bad.  We did have to move from where we’d tied up but that was fine.  We got all settled in and had a great sleep.  That was Friday.

  Next morning, Saturday,  Jennifer, one of the marina staff, kindly called British Customs for us and I had a fairly long but very friendly conversation with the guy on the phone.  The fact that we’d not checked in our out of Spain or France was a bit odd for them, but England isn’t part of Schengen either so that really didn’t matter.  Anyway at the end of the conversation I was told we could take down our yellow flag which you are required to fly until you have dealt with customs.  Then Jennifer called Immigration for us.  That is a funny story as it has a satisfactory ending.  It has always been fairly easy to enter a country though some require a visa prior to entry and some, like Israel, require paperwork prior to entry and then a radio interview prior to entry and then an inspection when you enter.  Going into Singapore we were met at sea to deal with paperwork before we could enter.  And some countries required bottles of booze or $50 for the officials.  As I said earlier, Spain and France really didn’t care to check us in at all though we were boarded by French Customs leaving Brest.  But there weren’t any trick questions.  Here there were trick questions and I didn’t give the correct answers during the phone conversation so we had to go visit Immigration at the International Ferry Terminal in Portsmouth across the harbour from Gosport.  I was asked what was expected of us coming to England and I had no clue so said “to be a good citizen and try not to do anything wrong.”  He told me in a stern voice that I was to be taking this more seriously but never told me the correct answer.  Then he asked how long we planned to stay which was another trick question.  I answered that as Americans we knew we could stay 6 months.  He asked a bunch of questions and it got confused because we’ll go home for at least a month so when we’re leaving England with DoraMac changes depending on how long we’re home because of the 6 month limit.  Then he asked how long we’d like to stay and I said well maybe a year if we could.  X ! He said we needed to come see him as this phone interview wasn’t going so great.  I said whatever he needed us to do we would do.  I then handed the phone to Jennifer to get the address and such and her tone indicated she wasn’t so pleased that he was giving us such a hard time.  (Before saying we needed to visit Immigration he said something about a fax machine which sent the marina staff into a tizzy as they never used it but would be willing to try.  Then the decision was made for us to visit Immigration so that ended the fax problem.)  We were also asked if we had a place in England reserved and if we had enough money to afford to stay.

  Randal and I and all of our boat papers and passports visited an ATM and then caught the Gosport ferry just around the corner at High Street and then took a taxi to Immigration at the International Ferry Terminal. We asked the folks at the Info desk to call Immigration for us and they did.    The official  came and was officious but pleasant and helpful and that was that.  You get a paper rather than a passport stamp.  Then we called a taxi to come to the terminal to get us.  (We’d not gotten our mobile phones yet as you’re really not supposed to get off the boat until you are checked into a country and the marina staff had told us that was pretty well enforced though we were allowed to go over to Immigration.)   British pay phones are much easier to use than the last time I was here mid-80s.  Then you had to dial the number and quick put in enough money and it all seemed so complicated but the red phone boxes were fun.  This pay phone, just on a wall,  worked the normal way and the taxi was there in 5 minutes.  Turns out our driver visits Marmaris, Turkey once each year with his partner who has been going there the past 20 years.  I commented that she has seen lots of changes as the marinas weren’t there 20 years ago.  It was a fun ride and we got back to the Gosport terminal just in time to catch the ferry just leaving. 

   It was after noon Cherbourg time and we were hungry!  On High Street we had a fish/chips/mushy peas lunch but it wasn’t as good as the fish/chips/mushy peas at DEKS in North Cyprus.  Then we walked along High Street to a phone shop and got our phones and wifi dongles, one for each and then wandered the outdoor Saturday booths.  We are quite taken with Gosport but must move along so will leave Monday as early as we can for the 60 mile passage to East Bourne.  This afternoon, Sunday, Steve and Valerie are coming to meet us.  We met Steve in Terengannu, Malaysia and then both he and his wife Valerie in Kota Kinabalu later.  Valerie and I went off exploring together and managed to cram several adventures into two days. 

Yesterday we watched an American Naval Sub come up into Portsmouth with part of it submerged in the water.  That was cool.

   I’m still working on the photos from Cherbourg and now the ones from Falmouth.  Until then, just this story.

Ru