All posts by Ruth

Miri weather

Hi Everyone,

  I received a few emails asking if the horrible weather in the Philippines and other parts of Southeast Asia was effecting us.  No and Yes.  No, we are not being flooded and we are in safe marina.  But yes it has effected our travel plans a bit.  We can’t/won’t leave Miri for Sebana Cove until the waves calm down in the South China Sea.  Another super typhoon is supposed to hit the Philippines and that might cause us to have high winds even here in the marina.  During the last storm we did have strong enough winds that Randal put an extra line out to the dock to hold us steadier. The waves outside the marina that hit the beach next to us are pretty big: too big for us to want to mess with.  So we’ll stay here and wait it out. We knew the weather for crossing changes in mid-October so sort of factored it in.  For the most part our weather here is sunny and hot.   Yesterday cruiser friends came from Kota Kinabalu.  Their passage was bouncy but okay.  But just before they left the marina in KK had taken a hit. The fuel and pumpout station dock was uprooted and blown ashore and one boat broke lose so things did get a bit wild there.  Miri is a bit more protected with a spit of land between us and the sea.  We are supposed to be in The Land Below the Wind here in (Borneo) Malaysia after all.

  We have been thinking about our friends in the Philippines. Our friend and webmaster Audrey emailed that Olongapo had flooded very badly even weeks ago from heavy rains.  Our friend Carol who lives in Manila said her home in Manila was surviving the storm.  Yesterday I met a young man at the Miri Library who is from the Philippines.  He has come here to work as many Filipinos do because there is too little work in the Philippines.  He had studied to be a history teacher and was very articulate and sweet.  So was his K-9 dog Oscar.  (At least I think I have the dog’s name right.)  Chris’  family lives near the Philippines’ largest lake, Laguna de Bay 13 miles southeast of Manila.  He had called home and the family home had been flooded but they all seemed to be ok.  We certainly hope that all of our friends in the Philippines are safe and will continue to stay safe. 

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Chris and Oscar.  Oscar is 7 years old and she is very calm.  Chris was working just outside the library and I stopped to talk because of the dog.  A very nice young man.

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The library is the building in the back of the photo.  The small open-sided building on the right is where I met Chris and Oscar escaping the intense mid-day heat. 

It was school vacation and there were lots of students in the library sort of doing work but things were quiet because the computers were downstairs in a different room.  It was nice to see all of them actually and having all of those people in the room seemed to keep it from being as freezing as in my past visits.  On my way home I saw these two young boys taking advantage of one of the several pools that surround the library plaza area.  Can you see the hands making peace signs poking out of the water?  When the young boy surfaced he asked if I wanted to trade a ringgit for a dollar seeming to imply he’d give me the dollar though I’m sure he meant the other way around.  I told him that would be a bad deal since the dollar was worth more.  He knew he hadn’t a prayer I’d swap so he just smiled and waved as I walked away.  And come to think of it I only had ringits with me and no dollars which I do usually carry.  I really do like the library and spent 3 hours looking through art books, sketch books and books about Islamic law relating to women.  Wish I had a library card.  The collection isn’t large but it is very well thought out, up to date, “liberal” in its views and the books are in very good condition.  There is an older “circulating” public library about as far from where I am standing as the new library.  The plaza is sort of in the middle.  The old library is colder, noisier and they don’t let you bring in your back pack.  The art collection isn’t as good either though the staff is very friendly and helpful and very public library oriented.  The problem with both is that they are an hour walk from the boat.  If they were closer I’d go every day.  I walk because I’m not sure about leaving my bike though I think next time I will bike because there is a food stand just outside the door and a guard just inside the door so maybe my bike will be safe. 

So that’s it.  Thanks for thinking about us. 

Ru

DoraMac

Here in Miri

Hi All,

Randal and I are just really relaxing here in Miri.  We ride our bikes, read, I paint, Randal watches his Discovery DVDs and watches the late night shows on his computer the following morning while I follow the Red Sox.  Just a couple of retired people!  I have been to the library twice.  Randal is also spending lots of time doing boat chores and also researching where and when we’ll go to have the boat pulled and the bottom painted.  We’ve decided that we’d both like to stop in India on our way to the Med.

We’ve only been here in Miri for about 2 weeks but it feels like much longer.  I know my way around the city and can’t remember what it was like to feel unsure.  I know the library and the bookstore and where to buy enough fresh veggies to keep me happy.  There are large supermarkets too when we need them.

The local people are very friendly.  During Hari Raya Muslims go to the cemetery to honor the dead.  We were biking past and slowed to let a group cross the road.  They said a quiet hello.  I said Salamat Hari Raya!  Then they all smiled and gave us a huge hello.  I think they appreciated that I had acknowledged their holiday.  We have found great apple crisp and ice cream, chicken pot pie, macaroni and cheese, homemade banana muffins and yogurt all at Pete’s Deli just up the road from the marina.  Pete’s Chinese!  The longer we stay the more we discover that we like.

I’ve written a story about having some pillow covers made here in Miri.  It’s just typical of the cruising life although it is amazing the number of cruising women who have sewing machines.  I wouldn’t mind having one.  Maybe one day.

Ru

DoraMac

Red Pillows

Ever since we left China I’ve wanted to replace the pillow covers on the 3 small pillows we keep on the settee in the saloon. (In landlubber terms the pillows are on the built in couch in the living room. I didn’t grow up with anything called a settee or a saloon so they’re just not terms I would choose without feeling that I had to explain what I meant requiring an entire paragraph practically.)

Anyway, the Chinese pillows were bought in a mini-mart store just across the way from where Bill and Stella had their lovely condo in Baijiao. We were waiting for Stella to meet us at the car. Sorry Bill, but I never liked the material, the pattern, the colors or the tassels that started falling off immediately. We lived with those spur of the moment purchases for two years until we got to Kuching during Sail Malaysia. I didn’t love the ones I bought there; I just liked them more than what we had and they looked better in the store…. I had tried to buy some in the Noor Arfa batik shop in Terengganu but they had none and neither did the public market cloth shops. Since the time we had left China I hadn’t seen pillow covers anywhere when I actually took the time to look. What I had seen was a long red, gold, green and blue skirt with an elephant and Indian motif while I was wandering through Chinatown in Singapore. Had to have it even though the elastic waistband was sized for tiny Asian people. I just really liked the material. Something about red and elephants made it irresistible to me as I was in my elephant phase. Well, I never wore the skirt; waist too tight, skirt too long and the occasion never arose.

While in Terengganu I told Ruth from Icicle One about the skirt. She said the waist band could come off and be replaced. So impulsively I took out a scissors and picked out the stitches and took out the waistband and that was the end of that skirt. Oh well. I put it with the sari cloth and the other sarong cloth we had been given and hoped someday to find someone somewhere to make me pillow covers.

Several days ago Randal and I went out looking for the second book store in Miri. We never found it but we did find a huge shop that sold fabrics, yarn, notions, and even a few paint brushes. I noticed that they had women sewing too. So Thursday, when the library had reopened after Hari Raya, I took one “Chinese pillow cover,” the long, now useless skirt, and I went back to the shop which was on the way to the library. Luckily Annabel Aurelia was there. Not only did she speak English, she spoke pillow and knew exactly what was needed to transform my no longer wearable red skirt into 3 pillow covers. Annabel has a hearing problem so we had to write to each other. Annabel reads and writes Bahasa Malaysia, she reads and writes English and she signs and I think she also might have been reading my lips. Pretty accomplished. She measured but found there wasn’t enough skirt material for front and back so took me to the shelves of fabric. She instantly picked out the perfect fabric though I had to keep looking before I saw she was right. Then she picked out the perfect zippers to match. She just really knew what she was doing.

Randal and I rode back today to get them and I really like them a lot. The shop was busy so I only had time to get the covers, say thank you and take a quick one chance only photo of Annabel. And I gave her one of our flag bandannas too.

In US dollars each cover cost about $3.60. I certainly think I got great value for my money. Can’t remember what I paid for the skirt in Singapore but it couldn’t have been very much or I wouldn’t have bought it.

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Pillows front and back.

You can see the elephants on the bottom and the red. Can you imagine this as a floor length skirt? Interesting fashion statement I’d have been making since though the waist was small it billowed out around my hips making me rather giant. But I really like the material.

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They add a bit of color to our tan and teak.

Annabel made sure the same pattern of the skirt was used on all of the pillows.

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Annabel Aurelia in the shop where she works.

Miri Library

Hi All,

  We are enjoying our time in Miri.Two days ago Randal and I got out our bikes and did a really long 15 mile ride.  It felt long anyway with the 90 degree temperature and 90% humidity.  And there were two hills too!   We rode along the coast highway, but the view was blocked by several zillion dollar mansions.  We took a detour to go to a more modest neighborhood near the airport which advertised a show house. It wasn’t opened so we gave ourselves a brief tour of the one being built next door.   We rode back to the coast road and turned into a small beach park area.  After a short rest we biked back toward town stopping to eat way too much fried rice and noodle soup. 

  Yesterday I went off to the Miri Public library.  Here’s the story…..

Miri Public Library; you can only get there by walking!
Our first visit to Miri was at the end of July for part of Sail Malaysia.  During that visit Randal and I rode our bikes to the Public Library.  It is new and quite impressive and they had several watercolor books that interested me.  They even had an art exhibit of local artists on display.  Yesterday I decided to go back for another visit.  Randal was doing a boat project with the alternator and battery charging system that necessitated running the engine for 2 hours.  I decided to “leave the premises.” 
The library is a fairly good distance from the marina so I decided to attempt the Miri bus system.  There is no printed schedule on the Internet, but the local bakery ladies told me that the bus ran every 20  minutes or so.   You watch the bus go by in the opposite direction and 20 minutes later it will be back at the stop in front of the bakery.    I packed up my backpack, kissed Randal good-bye and walked the 10 minutes over to the main road where the bakery and several small shops and restaurants are located.  It was 10:30: I sat down to wait for the bus.  There was a young man waiting also so I confirmed with him that I was indeed at the right place.  I had brought a book with me; but instead of reading I spent the next 25 minutes picking briars out of the bottom part of my skirt.  I have no idea how they came to be there but they were itchy.  Luckily they were just on the bottom part and only scratchy on my legs.  I got most of them out by the time the bus came at 10:55.  The driver was very helpful even calling the money dollars rather than ringgits.  It cost 1 ringgit to take the bus into town to the local bus terminal.  At the terminal the driver kindly walked me over to where bus 42 was parked; the bus that would get me closest to the library.  He then took me back over to the tiny terminal building where the schedules are posted and we saw that bus 42 wouldn’t leave for another 45 minutes!  A taxi driver asked if I wanted to take a taxi and I said no.  Then I asked the bus driver how much a taxi would cost.  He said about 5 ringgits which is less than $2.  But I decided to walk thinking it wasn’t so far. Also, I would know my way back since finding a return taxi at the Library would be impossible.   And it wasn’t so far; maybe a half hours walks.  I had to ask along the way since I’m not great with maps.  But it actually was quite simple other than crossing the really busy double lane wrong way traffic.  At one point I found myself at a bus stop as a bus came along.  I waited my turn to get on and asked if the bus would get me anywhere near the library.  The driver said, “No, Wait for bus 42.”  I continued walking, saw a taxi coming along and tried to flag it down.  No luck.  The weather was getting very overcast very quickly so I was getting concerned.  But after one more giant complicated major intersection I came to the street where the library was located.  As it turns out there are two libraries and I got to the “wrong one” first.  Another 5 minute walk and I was at my intended library with the watercolor collection I had come to see.  And most importantly, just outside the library, a small food stall.  I had a cold soybean milk drink and then went inside.  It was about noon and 10 minutes later it was pouring!
I sent the next 2 and a half hours there looking at several watercolor books and still there are more books I’d like to see.  And I didn’t explore their magazine collection.  So I will go back. 
I left the library and walked back to the town center and then back to the marina.  Along the way I stopped at a fruit stall to buy some crisp apples.  Though I was hungry I wasn’t the least bit tempted to eat an unwashed apple.  I did find a bag of lightly sweetened caramel popcorn at a house wares store.  The popcorn was in a display at the front of the shop.  That made a great lunch and got me the rest of the way back to the marina.  It was hot but I did have a bottle of water and there was no second choice but to keep walking. 
I had left the library at 2:45 and got back to the marina about 4 pm.  That included stopping to browse the Miri Handicraft Center, buy the apples , buy the popcorn and cross several busy streets.  It had taken me from about 10:20 am when I left the boat until about 11:45 to get myself “by bus” to the library.  It took me just about the same amount of time to walk back.  It really is a shame that it is so difficult to get to the library using public transportation: not for me, but for the locals. 

When we were here in July I wrote an email that included photos of the library.  These are photos of the landscaping around the library.  I had to pass this way walking from the first library to the second new library.  Miri means seahorse so you see lots of seahorse sculptures like in Kuching you saw cats.  Kuching means cat.

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Catching Up

Hi All,

  Randal and I left KK on September 2nd and arrived in Labuan on September 4th.  We stayed in Labuan several days longer than planned waiting for better cruising weather.  Because of that we were able to have several lovely evenings with Elisabeth and Patrick our friends on LaBarque who also happened to be in Labuan.  ( Elizabeth and Ruth from Icicle One and I had gone off looking at local handicrafts in Terengganu and Santubong. )  We took turns making dinner and watching movies.  They had Charlie Wilson’s War and Good Morning Vietnam.  We hadn’t seen either so it was dinner and a movie.  The food was good, the movies were good and the company was great.  One of the best parts of cruising are the people you meet along the way.

   We are now in Miri Marina and will remain here until October 1st if the marina has room.  There is a race that starts here October 9th so the marina will fill up with boats that are going to participate.  We don’t have the time or really the interest to participate since it takes you back to KK and we are going the opposite direction.

  We are already familiar with Miri because it was our next to last stop of Sail Malaysia.  We will get out our bikes and make the round of marine hardware shops and vegetable stalls at the wet market.  There is a nice new library here too which we visited briefly our last visit.  I might even figure out how to get there by bus.

  The attachment is the next to last one about Sandakan which seems so long ago at this point. 

   Ru

 

Sandakan Today….

Sandakan is unique and also typically Malaysian. Many of these photos will look just like those I’ve taken in Sebana Cove, or Kota Kinabalu. Ultimately it’s our interaction with the local people that attracts us to Malaysia. They have been friendly and helpful everywhere we go. Sandakan was the same.

Sandakan has a new “wet market” where you can buy almost anything “fresh” you want eat. And if you need some simple, inexpensive colorful clothes, go upstairs and you’ll find rows of stalls selling the colorful tops, wraps, and dresses I started buying back in the Philippines. But Randal and I were just being tourists and not shoppers so all I left with were photos.

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Bushels of watermelon.

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Of course, lots of fresh fish though; fresh chicken was for sale in the market.

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Still Life with Fish. The red fish just caught my eye and it’s easier to see in a large photo.

Randal and I went to the library in Sandakan. We went twice; the first time just to see it and the second time to read magazines and look at art books and fill time. Not a bad collection of books and a quite good selection of magazines including “Foreign Affairs, the Economist, Newsweek; “women’s magazines, sports, something for everyone just like US libraries. They had magazines in all of the three languages spoken in Sandakan; Bahasa Malaysia, Chinese and English.

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It’s a fairly large building with parking under-the-building parking area.

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They had books, magazines, computers, DVDs…. While we were in Sandakan one of the local news papers printed an article about the high cost of books and how readers were worried about having a continuous supply. Comments faulted the library for being too far from the center of town and not having enough of the popular titles so the wait was too long. Randal and I could walk to the library from the city center; but it was at least a 20 minute walk for us and we walk fast. There seemed to be a bus if you knew how to use it but that also costs money for the locals. Wish they had built the library in the town center though it looks to be close to several schools. I guess they save the land in town center for what is always perceived as “profit making enterprises.” I was disappointed in the collection concerning Agnes Keith. When I asked about it, the reference person took me to a locked room and showed me copies of Keith’s books. She pointed to the books and that’s about it and then left me to search around. I wanted an overflowing vertical file folder with clippings and old photos like we had at the RCPL so I could read about her time in Sandakan. I didn’t stay long, not much inspired by what I saw; maybe I just really wasn’t in the mood.

I left local history and went to the watercolor section and learned a few things. The library reminded me of the Public Lending library in Kota Kinabalu. (KK has a newer library just for reference which I visited during our first trip to KK.) The library in Terengganu was new but had fewer books. These libraries get used. You never see them empty. There are always a good number of people reading magazines or students doing work. It’s nice to see. The Sandakan newspaper also ran an article discussing whether the government should censor the Internet. Readers responded and most were the same arguments we hear at home concerning kids and their access to porn. At least they were discussing it and allowing diverse opinions. I was disappointed that the one from someone signing herself as a librarian was mostly concerned about access to Facebook. Good grief: that’s definitely not the most important internet access issue for sure! Having said that, in a world where people don’t travel so much, Facebook could be a way to see and interact with a wider group of people and ideas. And almost everyone at home now is on Facebook as a way to communicate with family and friends. It will be interesting to see what happens here in Malaysia with Internet access.

The library was just next to a wharf area of fishing boats. We walked over but hesitated to go into the gated area. The fisherman saw us and waved us in so we went.

clip_image012Many of the men loved having their photo taken. They call hello and ask “where are you from?” They’re always pleased to hear we’re from the U.S.

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Scenes from the fishing wharf. The huge lights are used for night fishing and make night cruising interesting. Our radar is set with a 3 mile radius and these lights can be seen from much further away. So you see lights but nothing on the radar.

I’ll send one more Sandakan email: showing the local kids.

Kids of Sandakan

Hi All,

  Randal and I biked into Miri today and discovered an English Language Bookstore.  That’s good and bad.  Good because we can stock up and bad because this is not a used book store and the prices are the same as in the US.  Sure do wish I could use the local libraries to check out books.  Someday that will happen.

  Anyway, here is the last of the Sandakan emails.

Ru

ps Books bought

Mine:

Our Woman in Kabul by Irris Makler about Afghanistan women

In the Name of Honor: A Memoir by Mukhtar Mai about Pakistan women

Careless In Red by Elizabeth George ( a murder mystery for fun!)

Randal’s

The Malay Archipelago by Alfred Russel Wallace

Weather glitch

Hi All,

  We had planned to be in Miri by now but bad cruising weather changed our plans.  We had rough but not terrible weather from KK to Labuan.   The marine forecast for the area has “20 to 30 knot wind on the nose” and 2.5 to 3.5 meters which is roughly 8 to 15 ft waves.  Too big to deal with.  Several other boats have pulled into the harbor here since we arrived.  Probably for the same reason or they are doing a booze run since Labuan is a freeport with cheaper alcohol.  Things should calm down by Wednesday so maybe we’ll leave by then.  Internet is too slow here to send photos. 

So that’s it.

Sox are hanging in there…..

Ru

Agnes Keith and the English Tea House

Hi Everyone,

     Here is part two of our visit to Agnes Keith’s home and the English Tea House just near by.  Randal and I fell in love with both places and would have moved right in. 

     We are coming to the end of our visit here in KK.  If all goes as planned we’ll leave Wednesday morning for Tiga Island (of Survivor fame), next Labuan and then back to Miri, Kuching, Sebana Cove, and a new stop Danga Bay, Indonesia, just outside Singapore as we retrace our route that will take us back to Peninsular Malaysia.  Then we’ll head up the west coat of Peninsular Malaysia.  Some old places and then some new ones.  We both really like Kota Kinabalu but we’re both ready to head on our way.  I’ve attached a photo of an excel file that show the lat and long numbers.  Randal really does spend lots of time looking at the routes to make sure they don’t have us cruising into obstacles, oil rigs, shallows or whatever.  You don’t just draw a line on the chart from point A to point B.  You have to look very closely at the entire route to see what you’ll encounter.  We have autopilot to steer the boat but it doesn’t do the thinking.  Randal does the navigation thinking.  If I absolutely in a pinch had to plan a route, I could do a crude one without factoring in current and weather….not a good idea, but in a pinch. (A pretty big bad I don’t want to think about it pinch!)  I think I could use the electronic chart.  Randal actually sort of agrees. 

   The two lucky stones I found on the beach several days ago seem to be helpinf the Sox!  I’m going back for more.  And I found enough sea glass to fill an empty large size instant coffee jar.  I’m going back for more of that too.  It’s almost impossible to find anymore but there’s lots over on the little beach near the marina.  Better than lots of plastic in my opinion. 

    So that’s it.

Ru

 

Agnes Keith continued..

It’s funny that it’s always called Agnes Keith’s House because she wouldn’t have been there without her husband who worked for the British Charter Company. The original house had been destroyed during the war but was rebuilt on the ruined foundations of the original house.

“Agnes Newton Keith was born Agnes Newton in Oak Park, Illinois. Her family moved to Hollywood, California when she was very young. Her father was one of the founders of the Del Monte Company. She attended the University of California, Berkeley for four years, and upon graduating got a job with the San Francisco Examiner. Eight months after starting her journalism career, she was attacked by an assailant who was convinced that the newspaper was persecuting him by printing Krazy Kat cartoons. She received serious head injuries which affected her memory. She also became seriously depressed, and after two years of illness her father sent her and her brother Al to Europe to recuperate. Returning refreshed to the States, Agnes decided to become a writer, but soon afterwards lost her eyesight for two years as a delayed result of her injuries. During this period she studied dancing, modeled clothes and ‘did bits in the movies.

In 1934 she married Henry G. Keith, known as Harry. Keith, an Englishman, had been a friend of Al’s when both boys had been at the same school in San Diego, and Agnes had first met him when she was eight years old. Keith had gone on to work for the Government of North Borneo, and Agnes had not seen him in ten years when he visited California while on leave in 1934. However, as soon as they re-met they decided to get married, and were wed three days later. Three months after their marriage, following an operation to cure Agnes’s eyesight, they sailed for Borneo.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agnes_Newton_Keith

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Agnes Keith and friend. Agnes treated the native animals as we do cats and dogs; they became part of the family. Photo from the brochure.

Randal and I spent a good deal of time in the house looking at the photos and reading all of the captions. Obviously we’re both big fans. If you read, Eat Pray Love or Under the Tuscan Sun; you’ll like Agnes Keith’s books too. Claudette Colbert played the part of Agnes Keith in the movie version of Three Came Home about the war years. I think Katherine Hepburn would have been great for the part. Randal and I really just wanted to move into the house and spend the night. Instead we said farewell to Agnes and Harry, retrieved our shoes and walked over to the English Tea House for scones and tea.

http://movies.nytimes.com/movie/review?res=9502EFDE173DE03BBC4951DFB466838B649EDE is a New York Time review of the movie that came out in 1950.

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English Tea House. Randal found the stick on our way up the “100 steps.” I don’t know if it helped but he carried it all the way up and all the way back down.

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This is the view from the Tea House but would also have been the view from Agnes Keith’s House.

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This was our waiter Din during our first visit to the Tea House. Din is taking away the freezing cold damp wash cloth that I was given to wash my very sweaty hands, face, anything else I could reach that wasn’t covered by my clothes. It felt wonderful.

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We went to the Tea House twice and both times had wonderful tea and scones. Well, I had the tea; Randal had 100 Plus which is like carbonated Gatorade.

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You could try your hand at croquet.

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They had an old phonograph and telescope. They played big band music softly in the background. We could have spent the night here too!

After our warm scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam we were off to walk around Sandakan and see the sights. A good thing too since we had just eaten about a billion calories of mostly cholesterol. The scones were more like a heavier southern biscuit. When we were finishes there wasn’t even a crumb for the birds or a sign that there had ever been any butter or jam in the small serving dish. Randal was in heaven and I was good too!

Agnes Keith and English Tea

Hi All,

  We’ll probably be here till Wednesday.  You have to check out of Sabah with the Harbor Master etc and all government offices are closed until Tuesday because of Merdeka which is Malaysia’s Independence Day August 31st.  Lots more traffic in town is noticible this week and schools are also closed.  More small tents up along the sidewalks.  Today Joy and I are going in to the Sunday Morning market.

  This attachment is about our visit to Agnes Keith’s Home in Sandakan. 

Ru

 

Agnes Keith and English Tea

I’m going to make this next email all about Agnes Keith because she’s why we went to Sandakan. The rest of our Sandakan tour was more for the exercise. Not that it wasn’t interesting; it was. But Sandakan history isn’t even as old as Roanoke history and half of it is British Colonial History. Odd, but off-hand I don’t remember British colonial leftovers in New England other than putting vinegar on our fries at the beach. When I smell vinegar I still think of Acushnet Beach in New Bedford where I first ate French fries with vinegar.

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Agnes Newton Keith and her home Newlands.

http://www.sabahtourism.com/sabah-malaysian-borneo/en/destination/92-agnes-keith-house/

This is the cover of the brochure they give you at her home. No photos are allowed in the house so I don’t feel so bad stealing their photos.

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I forgot in the hotel photos to add this sign. We went to all of those places including the stairs with the 100 steps.

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This map is also in the brochure. You can see both Kota Kinabalu and Sandakan. Cruisers call it Kota (Breathe) Kinaba LU when locals say Kota KinaBAlu (no breath between.) To us it’s SAN (breathe)daKAN while locals say San da kan. Actually I can’t even recreate how locals say Kinabalu because it’s so different really. It was a 6 hour slow bus ride so you know it’s really not all that far. We did stop after about 4 hours for a snack and rush for the tandas. Sandakan was part of British North Borneo and that’s why Agnes Keith was living there. Her husband worked for the British Charter Company that administered the area.

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Beginning the “hundred steps” that take you up the hill to Agnes Keith’s home.

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These steps weren’t included in the one hundred; only the stairs before these walks and after.

What they really meant to say was the “one hundred stairs” because the flat spaces between the stairs weren’t included in the one hundred number! But it was early enough in the morning and there was some shade and it was a lovely walk. Huff puff sweat!

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After you pass the English Tea House and the ticket counter and the small welcome building you finally get to the house.

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Off with their shoes! The gorgeous wood floors make up for the annoyance of having to remove your shoes. But removing your shoes is really quite expected here and I’m almost more surprised when you don’t have to do it.

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This brochure photo shows the beautiful wood floors. According to the brochure “the house is furnished simply with reproduction colonial furniture and antiques.” Lots of wonderful photos too and great displays of information.

Too be continued with more about Agnes Keith and our visit to the English Tea House.

Sandakan: Part one

Hi All,

  Last week Randal and I traveled overland to eastern Sabah to Sandakan to see Agnes Keith’s home.  Having read her books, we both wanted to visit her home in north Borneo before we left Sabah.  We spent a few days, saw a few sights and came home.  Sandakan is the kind of place that grows on you.  Not so much there; but the people are very friendly as we’ve found all through Malaysia.  Most cruisers go there as a jumping off point for the river and island destinations nearby. Randal and I visited the town of Sandakan  I took lots of photos so it will take a few emails to tell the whole story.  . 

Ru

 

Sandakan: Part one

Randal and I had one main reason to visit Sandakan: Agnes Newton Keith. I have mentioned her lots of times. She wrote a series of books about Sabah and Borneo spanning the years from 1934 to 1952. Both Land Below the Wind (1939) and White Man Returns (1951) were written in their house in Sandakan. Three Came Home, written on bit s and scraps hidden in the Japanese internment camps during the war, was published in 1946. All of the books are illustrated with wonderful line drawings done mostly by the author. They are wonderful books. Don’t be put off by the fact they were written so long ago. Agnes Keith trained as a journalist in college and writes directly and with much humor.

I had it in my head that I wanted to take the bus to Sandakan. I really don’t ever choose to fly if I can help it. The bus would take 6 hours; but we’re retired and have time. (While in the Philippines we’d never minded the 3 hour bus trip from Subic Bay to Manila; even with people crammed on boards wedged in the aisle.) And we would see the Sabah country side and maybe catch a view of Mt Kinabalu. It takes 40 minutes to fly from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan but you have to be at the airport and hour early so I figured that we were really only saving 4 hours…..The punch line is that we flew back to Kota Kinabalu. But that’s the end of the story.

We left the marina at KK Thursday, the 20th, at 7 am taking a taxi to the main bus terminal in Inanam 20 minutes north of KK. As soon as you get off the bus you are besieged by men “in your face” trying to get you to take their bus line to Sandakan. I don’t like this sales pressure but Randal absolutely hates it. It drives up the cost of anything because these middlemen get some kind of pay from someone. Basically there were two choices and you pick one. One bus had horses painted on it and one dolphin: inside they looked about the same. Randal picked the one with horses.

The bus ride was, well, cheap and not terrible. No one was sitting in the isle. But the road was mountainous and curvy and some of the passengers had a hard time with it. The lady across the aisle one row back kept gagging into a black plastic bag they hand out when you get onto the bus. Luckily our stomachs have been hardened by ocean waves so Randal and I were okay. But I had to suck on candy every now and then to keep the queasiness away. And then there was the trio of violent action films they showed along the way. Read the review for See No Evil and think about the fact there were young kind on board. The other two were just as awful; but it made the time pass. It was too hard to look out the window at the views and not get motion sick. We’ll just chock it up as an experience. Actually I’d have taken the bus back to KK; but Randal refused; so we had a fairly cheap, easy, quick, pleasant flight home. The walk back from the airport is another story….

We stayed in a small, cheap tourist hotel in Sandakan not far from Agnes Keith’s home. It was 55 ringgits per night, about $15 U.S. You get what you pay for; but it was clean, had a bathroom with a toilet and hot water in the shower, AC that sort of worked and a TV that got the movie channel when the desk clerk remembered to flip the switch that made it available. The lobby had cheap, very fast Internet. There was a simple toast, butter, jam and coffee breakfast. It was fine. It had lots of stairs.

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We were on the 3rd floor; two above street level. The lobby and internet access was one below us. Breakfast was available on the roof which was two floors above our room. We walked lots of stairs.

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Randal helping himself to coffee.

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Actually it was quite nice and you could have as much toast and tea as you wanted. We ate about 7 am when it was cool, breezy, and pleasant.

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On one side was a small fountain with turtles swimming around, more places to sit and lots of plants.

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Two views from the roof top.

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Library and Internet Access. Many small hotels have book swap areas because there are no English language book shops.

We’d arrived in Sandakan about 2pm and had taken a taxi from the bus terminal to the London Hotel. After checking in and dumping our stuff we went out to look around. We decided to leave the real sight-seeing for Friday so we could have an early start when it would be cool. We did walk to the Tourism Office where we were given a Sandakan Heritage Trail map. We also visited the small Sandakan Museum next door. We were surprised that there were few photos showing the time of Agnes Keith. Turns out they were hanging in the Agnes Keith House.

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Next email we’ll start the tour. Our hotel is just near # 1, the Jamek Mosque on the far left.