Category Archives: Singapore

Last day in Singapore

I was still trying to do EVERYTHING before we left.  Not possible.  But I did want to learn a little more about the Malay culture so it was off to the Malay Heritage Centre.  www.malayheritage.org.sg  The Centre turned out to be just one street away from Arab Street where I had been twice before; once with Lang and once with Randal.  I ate lunch in the same place all three times. 

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Singapore Zam Zam on North Bridge Rd. Halal Muslim food.

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I sat at a table on the other side of the glass window.  These two men are making roti.  I had the lamb roti for the third time.  You can see the window of the mosque across the street reflected in the glass.

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Gigantic roti cooked on a huge round griddle.

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I could only eat about one third of this monster roti.  It was hot and filled with ground lamb and very good.  They also served me cucumber with catsup and spicy dipping sauce.  I washed it down with a can of Coke Zero.  Total cost 4 Sing $ about $2.60 US. 

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I had a front row seat too, to watch the sidewalk show go by.  I also watched as one of the Zam Zam workers called to passers-by to come in for lunch.  Many did just that. You can see him standing there in the long white shirt waiting to nab folks as they walk by.  That’s why I ate here the first time; they come out and welcome you in.  I was with Lang.  When Randal and I were there it was a Sunday and the place was packed with families during lunch time.  We had just spent all morning, from 7:30 am until 12:30 pm visiting Singapore Immigration (very frustrating interaction with them each time we had to renew our VISA) and then making a bus trip to Johor Bahru, Malaysia and back in the game called “get more days on your VISA to remain in Singapore.”  Long story.  Mostly happy ending.  Anyway we were starving when we got to Zam Zam which was a few blocks from the Singapore bus terminal.  We had 1 lamb roti, one order of fried rice and 3 Coke Zero between us. Because the restaurant in Halal they don’t serve beer which probably would taste wonderful with a lamb roti.  We were Very full.

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“Masjid Sultan at Muscat Street in Kampong Glam begun in 1924 and completed in 1928.  This area of Singapore was reserved for the Malay and other Muslim people by Sir Stamford Raffles the “founder” of Singapore.  I just love the term Glam. The area’s name is derived from two Malay words, Kampong, meaning “village” or “settlement”, and Glam (or Gelam) referring to a variety of eucalyptus.”  from Wikipedia.  My photo.

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Arab Street where you can buy bolts of cloth and Persian Rugs.  Randal and I saw some beautiful rugs and hope to actually buy some when we get to Turkey one day.

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Cloth for traditional Muslim dress.

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School kids and their teacher were also visiting the area. 

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A Malay sailing vessel at the Heritage Centre.  And I can get scared on DoraMac.  Imagine crossing the ocean in this. 

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Traditional Minangkabau Palace.  West Sumatra Indonesia.  The Malays have ties to Indonesia though I still don’t truly understand much about who they really are.  Looks like something from “The King and I.”

Next email, inside the museum and batik painting. 

Batik

While I was at the Malay Heritage Centre I was lucky to catch a batik demonstration or part of a workshop; I’m not sure which. 

From the Malay Heritage Centre website

Batik

Of Javanese origins, this technique has found its popularity in Singapore , especially at the Malay Heritage Centre. The term comes from an old Javanese word which means “ to dot ”. Since the 12 th century, this basic concept of using wax and dye has been really popular with Singaporean locals, as well as foreign visitors.

Canting

The use of Canting and wax creates a resist method on the fabric, when it is drawn free-hand on cotton or silk. These smooth lines prevent the dye from penetrating the other areas of the piece. Some other techniques used are:

Cracking Method

This method involves the brushing of wax onto a piece of cloth/silk. When it is dry, it is then crushed and soaked in dye, hence allowing dye to penetrate into the cracked lines. In olden days, only darker coloured dyes are used at this stage. After drying, a second layer of cracking wax is applied to the coloured piece and then painted once more. This effect allows for greater exploration of colours and design.

Absorption Method

This method involves the use of materials like tissues, rock, salt, etc. For example, when tissues are used, it will be spread unevenly on the Batik piece and water is then added to the different parts of the piece. Next, when dye is added or dotted, it will seep into the wrinkles of the tissue, creating a jagged effect. This effect allows for greater exploration of colours, design and imagination.

The Malay Heritage Centre offers workshops in Batik and Pottery.  I don’t know if this woman was a student at a workshop or an assistant since she was the only one other than the teacher doing the batik.  I asked her a question, but was told by the teacher that the woman spoke little English.  The teacher reminded me of the actor Pat Morita from the Karate Kid.  When I said I was from the US, he asked if I were from Key West.  I think I’ll take that as a compliment.  He walked over to help her before I could ask, “why Key West?”

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Teacher shows student.  I should have asked more questions but I didn’t want to interrupt.  I found the information below on the web and I’m guessing it explains the process the were doing.

‘False batik’ or ‘faux batik’ is a term that silk painters use for getting the traditional look of batik. You can paint layers of dyes starting with the lightest progressing through to the darkest colour and painting over the complete piece of silk after each waxing instead of dipping in the dye. Then you can crumple up the batik and paint over the last dye which will seep into the cracks and form the crackle effect one sometimes associates with batik. Unfortunately it is a term that batik artists do not refer to. A lot of them do batik in this way but do not call it faux batik. There are many ways of applying the wax and the dyes. But in this method you do not dip the fabric in dye like in traditional batik.  http://www.batikguild.org.uk/questions.asp

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The top of the batik.  The flowers are outlined in wax and the paint just flows over it.

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The back side of the cloth.  I was told that real batik looks almost the same on both sides of the cloth to indicate the design was dyed into it and not printed on one side.

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Paintings, shadow puppets and batik stamping tools

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Instead of applying the wax with a small hand held tool, the molds are dipped into wax and pressed onto the cloth where the design has already been marked.  I saw a video of batik design at the Asian Civilization Museum.

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Inspiring the next generation. 

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I would have loved to have seen this created start to finish.  But partly I was in a rush to see and get back to the boat to start packing up for our trip to Sebana Cove tomorrow.  Wish I hadn’t waited to the last day to visit the Centre.  You might have noticed that I use the British spelling for words: centre, theatre, etc.  That was if you search for anything I’ve written about you’ll find it more easily.  And besides, “when in Rome..”

Singapore Botanical Garden Favorites

Cramming in all the emails!

We will leave Singapore on the 19th to return to Sebana Cove Marina in Malaysia and leave for the US on the 25th.  Time is just rushing too fast.  And word has it the Internet at Sebana isn’t working so well so I am trying to finish up most of the Singapore email. 

Here are just a few of my favorite photos from the Singapore Botanical Garden.  We spent most of our time just wandering and looking and taking photos; not learning what plants were what so I’m afraid that I can’t give them labels.  Other than purple orchid….  I did take lots and lots of photos so you’re getting off easy.   The close up photos aren’t so bad for just a point and shoot though I did futz with the settings and many were on portrait and macro.  The sun hit just right some of the time and the plants were all just beautiful.  I just got lucky.

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I just loved all of the different greens…I might have to try this with my watercolors

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Down the garden path.

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I love these fan-like trees.

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This was pretty unique.

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I like the red, the green and the sunlight.

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Blue bug in red and green plant. 

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Purple orchid 1.

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Purple orchid 2.  The orchids came in lots of colors and shapes.  The photos of these purple ones are my favorites.

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Tadpoles swimming in one of the small pools

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I was surprised to find this in a botanical garden!

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A cat in the gardens.

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Is that me or my reflection in the mirror?

I’ll stop now!

Singapore Sculptures and a short history lesson

Just one more day and then we’ll leave on the 19th.  AND THERE’S STILL SO MUCH TO SEE AND DO!!!!!!!

“If you’re strolling along the Singapore River and do a double take, that might be because you suddenly find yourself confronted by some life-like and life-size bronze sculptures. Tagged the “People of the River” series, these sculptures depict the lifestyles of early inhabitants along the river. The masterpieces of local sculptors, they form part of an open-concept museum which allows one to uncover layers of Singapore history in a modern setting.  Together with towering skyscrapers in the background, these sculptures create an arresting picture of Singapore’s growth from a small river settlement to a bustling contemporary city. More than memories cast in bronze, they show the stuff which dreams are made of. Remember your camera! Many have been unable to resist the urge to pose with these “river people”! ” www.visitsingapore.com http://www.nusantara.com/ is another site that talks about all of Singapore’s public art.

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The River Merchant by Aw Tee Hong  The merchant is Alexander Johnston.  The standing men are most likely a Chinese and Arab merchant.    You can learn lots from this sculpture; who gets to sit, who gets to talk and who gets to work.  Colonial life illustrated.  You can also see which statues get rubbed and are shiny gold; like the waterbuffalo’s nose!

Alexander Laurie Johnston

By Cornelius-Takahama Vernon written on 2001-03-27

National Library Board Singapore

Alexander Laurie Johnston, (b. Dumfriesshire, South Scotland – d. 19 February, 1850, Bluehill, Kircudbright, Scotland). A former ship’s owner/captain, Merchant, Businessman, Magistrate, Justice of Peace, arrived in Singapore in 1820. One of the earliest and much-liked settlers, he was the first Magistrate and Justice of Peace, appointed by Sir Stamford Raffles, who also made him one of the first Trustees of the Singapore Institution (later Raffles Institution). He established A. L. Johnston & Co. in July 1820, and being an active member of the mercantile community, Alexander Laurie Johnston was one of the founding members of the Singapore Chamber of Commerce in 1837. He was elected its first Chairman. He was one of Singapore’s pioneer businessmen who spent more than 22 years of his life here, made his mark and left Singapore on 18 December, 1841 for England before his retirement in Scotland. He died on 19 February 1850 in Scotland. Johnston’s Pier, now demolished, was named after him.

The benefactor

Johnston was liberal and hospitable to the extreme, and in the earliest cash book when he commenced business here, the first entry to his personal debit was, “A. L. Johnston, Paid subscription for the release of a female European slave, $10”. He was a liberal subscriber to the Singapore Institution, and even long after he left the Settlement, his interest in welfare continued sending liberal donations to its funds. Although an Anglican Protestant, he donated towards the first Catholic Chapel at Bras Basah Road. The building after that became the beginnings of St. Joseph Institution. (Now the Singapore Art Museum)

Departure from Singapore

At one of his many farewell gatherings, a great number of the most respectable Chinese merchants presented him with a piece of Plate valued at one thousand dollars, and a Gold Snuff Box costing five hundred dollars. The Arab merchants presented him with something of equal value. On 17 December 1841, he finally left the Settlement and the East, for England, carrying with him the affectionate regards of all whom he left behind him. He was the best known and most highly respected of the earliest merchants in Singapore. A Singapore Free Press notice of 1 July, 1853 stated that the interest and responsibility of the late Mr. Alexander Laurie Johnston in the firm of A. L. Johnston, ceased on 31 August,

Retirement and death

He retired in Scotland. He died in Bluehill, Kircudbright, in Scotland, on 19 February 1850

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Cat sculpture on the Cavenagh Bridge.  You couldn’t pat these kitties on the outside of the bridge without fear of falling into the river.  Seems Singapore is soft-hearted when it comes to cats.  Remember the cat lady of Newton Circus. 

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Young boys swimming in the Singapore River near Boat Quay across the river from the Asian Civilization Museum.  You can see this scene played out all over Asia. 

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Sculpture near the Singapore Art Museum.

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Pagoda Street Chinatown. 

Singapore has over 100 outdoor sculptures and I guess I have seen maybe a dozen.  Next visit to Singapore I’ll see more.  Oddly I am not usually interested in sculpture.  But when it introduces you to the history. I kind of like it.

Singapore with Marie Louise

Our friend Marie Louise came to stay with me this week.  Randal was off to the Philippines and Marie Louise and I were off to explore Singapore. 

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Marie Louise in front of the “Swiss Cheese” plant at the Singapore Botanical Garden.   www.sbg.org.sg/

http://www.sailblogs.com/member/dessertfirst/   Marie Louise’s blog.  The name of her sailboat is Dessert First.
“I was born in Switzerland where I grew up, went to school, then travelled through Europe, returned and attended school of social work. In 1954 I emigrated to the San Francisco, California. Here I learned to sail and love it and made the decision to retire on a boat.
I then worked as a social worker and administrator for programs for immigrants, families and finally the frail elderly. I retired at 65 in 1993, moved onto my boat Dessert First and started cruising. First down the coast through the Panama Canal to the Caribbean where I stayed for seven years. Then onward and back through the Canal to the Pacific and finally SE Asia where I am now.”

We met Marie Louise in Sebana Cove, Malaysia.  Among other things, Marie Louise and I share the trials and tribulations of trying to paint watercolor.

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Rainy day on Pagoda Street, Chinatown.  Marie Louise and Singapore artist James Koh. Singapore Mint chose him to design their gold and silver medallions to mark the Year of the Pig in 1995. He had been the manager of a huge pig breeding facility as well as being an artist.  The facility was closed down and Mr Koh became an artist full time.  He painted very few images of pigs, but one was chosen by the Singapore Mint for their medallion.  He was quite impressed that Marie Louise speaks Mandarin.  She also speaks Swiss German and French and English of course. 

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Marie Louise buying a wide-angle/macro lens that is held onto her camera with a magnet.  This guy was a great salesman, funny and reminded me of an Asian Jerry Seinfield. I managed to resist any new anything.

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Then it was off to try out the camera.  We were on our way to the Asian Civilization Museum.  We made two visits and could have gone back for more.  Our first trip we looked at some of the permanent collection.  Our second visit was for the opening of the major 2009 exhibit, The Kangxi Emperor:Treasures from the Forbidden City.  Had Marie Louise not come to visit, I don’t think I would have visited the museum and it is one of the best I’ve see in a very long time.  Unfortunately, no photos were allowed at the special exhibit.  http://www.acm.org.sg

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Crossing the Cavanaugh Bridge over the Singapore River to the Museum

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Dessert After.  We worked up an appetite after all of that looking and learning and walking.  I finally had to tell Marie Louise that if she didn’t hurry up and take the photo, she would take the photo of a half eaten dessert.

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Ricciotti located on The Riverwalk at Clarke Quay.  http://www.ricciotti.com.sg/riverwalk/index.html   This was the best!  “PANNA COTTA – S$7.80  smooth vanilla pudding in chocolate shell with sabayon and chocolate jelly”  TIRAMISU – S$7.80 mascarpone cheese cake with ladyfinger biscuits, coffee and cocoa.    Ricciotti is a small Italian bistro with real gelato and wonderful desserts.  My panna cotta  was just perfect and not too sweet.  There was even a strawberry tomato on top.  (They grew in our back yard in New Bedford.  It’s a tiny fruit with a covering that looked like a tiny Japanese lantern. ) The crust was chocolate with something that tasted like cannoli flavored custard filling and wonderful raspberries.  My coffee came with foamed milk on the side.  Just perfect.  And they were having a special so coffee or tea came with all of the desserts! 

Saturday we went off to the Botanical Gardens off Orchard Road.

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At the Singapore Botanical Garden.  I probably would have missed it too if Marie Louise hadn’t suggested going.    The orchid garden is one of Marie Louise’s favorite places in Singapore.  What amazed me was how many of the same plants I had seen growing wild in Sebana Cove!

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Marie Louise and Marie Louise.

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This Kapok Tree was planted in 1933 (when Marie Louise was 5) making it 76 years old.  It has been designated as a Heritage Tree. 

www.blueplanetbiomes.org/kapok.htm “It can grow to a height of 150 feet or more, towering over other trees in the rainforest. Originally a native to South America it now has spread to the primary rainforests of West Africa, and the Southeast Asian rainforests of the Malay Peninsula, and the Indonesian archipelago. The straight trunks are cylindrical, smooth and gray in color, and can reach a diameter of 9 feet. Large spines protrude from the trunk to discourage damage to the trunk. Thin, plank type buttresses stabilize the giant and can extend to 30 feet”

clip_image018  This might give you a better idea of the tree’s size.  I was fascinated.

I took about a gazillion photos at the gardens and also along Boat Quay on the way to the Asian Civilization Museum.  There are lots of bronze statues to tell Singapore history.  l’ll do a few more Singapore emails.  We’re leaving this week to return to Sebana Cove. It has been a wonderful visit. 

Toa Payoh with Lang and Douglas part 1

Hi Everyone,

  Randal and I joined Lang and Douglas for another eating/sight seeing adventure. We had a “progressive meal:” dinner at the Crystal Jade Kitchen and dessert at Swensons.

clip_image002 Crystal Jade had lots of good food, but the photo op went to the glass-walled part of the kitchen where they hand made all of their noodles.

clip_image004 That blob of dough became dumplings and noodles and and and………

clip_image006 Faster than a speeding bullet.  We had to try some of the noodles and they were very good.  Douglas had some pork dumplings with a bit of liquid trapped inside that explodes in your mouth if you are careful and don’t tear the dough getting it from serving dish to your plate and mouth.

Randal had an egg dish and I had Portuguese tofu. It didn’t remind me of any of the Portuguese food I grew up eating in New Bedford, but it was really good.   Amazingly it reminded me of the veal cutlets at the Bridge Diner in New Bedford with southern style oniony gravy.  I don’t know how you get tofu to taste like a breaded veal cutlet, but they did.  We all tried it and liked it and Randal and Douglas said the same thing.   Now, of course I would never order veal but I do like the mutton roti from Singapore Zam Zam Restaurant on North Bridge Street just off Arab Street. 

clip_image008  Bad Ruthie, Bad Randal!!  I had a giant Jimmy cone that was real ice cream and really good. 

Randal had his usual, a banana split.

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Lang had mint ice cream but said it was too sweet.  Nothing can be too sweet for Randal or me.  Douglas had orange sherbet with the cherry from the top of Lang’s ice cream.  I always get the cherry from Randal’s banana splits. 

Then it was off to walk around Toa Payoh and burn off two bites of our desserts.

Toa Payoh 2

http://www.the-inncrowd.com/index.htm If you ever visit Singapore this is a really good site with several suggestions for walks through the different areas of Singapore.

“Almost 90% of the population in Singapore live in flats constructed by the Housing Development Board (“HDB”). These flats are located in the suburbs and are grouped into various satellite towns, each with their own town centre.   (A flat is what Americans call apartments.)

Few Singaporeans will think of taking a day trip to the suburbs, let alone foreigners. But, this is the only way to experience the “real” Singapore.

Journey to one of Singapore’s most mature town centres, Toa Payoh Central. Toa Payoh Central is also home to the HDB, which recently shifted its headquarters to a spanking new building called the HDB Hub, located above Toa Payoh MRT Station and the much-debated air-conditioned bus interchange. The decision by the authorities to air-condition bus interchanges then increase the price of public transport caused quite a stir amongst commuters, who prefer to pay less for their transport than to enjoy a few minutes of air-conditioned comfort.

With the sudden influx of a few thousand HDB employees, the already bustling Toa Payoh Central is now bursting at its seams. The coffee shops, hawker centres and shops are very crowded, especially during lunch time.   (On our very first adventure with Lang and Douglas we ate at food from the hawker stalls.)

Shopping here is excellent because almost everything is cheaper than in the city, and there are plenty of interesting buys too. At Cash Converter, a queue forms to sell their used items, which are in turn displayed for sale to others hunting for cheap, used goods. The S$0.80 and S$1.00 shops (i.e. shops selling everything at S$0.80 or S$1.00 apiece) are so well-stocked, it makes you wonder why you ever shopped anywhere else. Try a cup of bubble tea, an iced tea drink (with or without milk) with big, black, starchy pearls. It’s pretty addictive!

Take a look around you and you’ll see bamboo poles with wet laundry sticking out of the flats, housewives trading gossips, residents sipping their kopi-o (“black coffee”) and exchanging their views on the latest news.

Take a break at the Toa Payoh Community Library. Browse through the travel guides, books on Singapore’s history, or works of local writers. You’ll definitely learn something new. Or you could stop by Toa Payoh Entertainment Centre to catch a movie or amuse yourself at the games arcade.

To get to Toa Payoh Central, take the MRT to Toa Payoh MRT Station. It’s just 3 stops from Ang Mo Kio MRT Station.”  

http://www.the-inncrowd.com/index.htm  If you ever visit Singapore this is a really good site with several suggestions for walks through the different areas of Singapore.

clip_image002 clip_image004  Cash Converters.

I had my eye on the white ceramic bunny on the top shelf.  How could anyone part with that?  It was a combination of Happy’s Flea Market and Play It Again Sports.

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The Super Key Lady’s truck and the Super Key Lady sign.  I might have to go back just to actually read the whole sign and not just the part I caught here in the photo.

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I think I even saw a key with Che’s portrait on it.  Lang doesn’t like the key lady because she says the prices are too high.  Douglas says the Key Lady can make a key that will work for you even if you don’t have the exact one to be copied.  At least I think Douglas said that…or I’ve made it up.

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clip_image015  The Toa Payoh Public Library.

This was taken on our first visit to Toa Payoh.  Lang has her motorcycle helmet in her hand.  That’s how she commutes to work which involves being a computer chip guru.  In Malaysia and Indonesia lots of women drive motorcycles.  Hermairdi’s wife in Belitung had one to commute to her teaching job.  I guess where you have no winter they can be more popular.  Seeing women in full Muslim traditional dress driving a motorcycle always seemed a contradiction to me which shows what I know.

Singapore at night

Hi Everyone,

   We really are lucky to have Lang and Douglas guiding us around Singapore.  We are exploring places we probably would have skipped without they’re saying, “Come on!”  After dinner at Newton Circus we ventured over to Clarke Quay, one of the hot spots of Singapore night life.  By the time we left the outdoor restaurants and mini-breweries were packed.  But as one Singapore gentleman told me on the MRT, Singapore is for eating!

clip_image002  City Hall and the old Supreme Court

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clip_image006  Randal, Doug and Lang.  I just think this photo is fun.

Where North Bridge Rd meets South Bridge Rd

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clip_image013 Clarke Quay where old warehouses have been transformed into malls, shops, restaurants, etc.

clip_image015Shop girl in Red, hat, shoes, fingernails.    She never looked up. 

You can see from what she is wearing the dress code here in Singapore is far different than that of Malaysia and Indonesia.

clip_image017  It was getting late for us, like 8:30 PM, but it was really too early for the crowds. 

We’re pretty much 12 hour people,  It gets light at 7 am and dark at 7pm, and so do we.

Doug’s favorite part of the evening was the neon lit radio controlled kites.  They whooped and dove and looked like something from Star Wars.

clip_image018  You can see the neon lights of the kite and the green “runway.”

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Two kites were playing daredevil with each other with an occasional thwack letting you know they hit.  But no crashes.

Singapore Synagogues

Hi Everyone,

  So far during our travels we have experienced Chinese New Year in China and Ramadan in Indonesia.  In Singapore it was time to experience Jewish history.  Jews have been in Singapore since 1819 and there are 2 synagogues.  Monday I went to visit them and the National Library to finally take a look at the book The Jews of Singapore.   I took the MRT to Dhoby Ghaut and set off for Chesed El Synagogue.  Chesed El was the third synagogue to be built in Singapore, but since it was the farthest from the library which is nearer to the other synagogue. (The very first synagogue no longer exists having been outgrown and sold many many years ago.  Synagogue Street, where it was located, is still there.)     It wasn’t a long walk, but by then it was mid-morning and I was wishing I’d stopped for coffee near the MRT.  With help from my map and two friendly women, I found the correct road and climbed the hill to the synagogue.  I approached the closed gate and was told by the security guard that I couldn’t come inside the gate,  never mind go inside the synagogue.  Since I’m trying to see things not just for myself, but for everyone at home, being turned away was doubly disappointing.  Then he said something about no photos.  I understood him to mean no photos inside and assured him I wouldn’t take any; but he still said no.  So I walked back to the sidewalk and took some photos of the outside.  Then I crossed the road to see what the building with the Jewish star was across the street.  I looked in the window and then took some photos and that’s when the police arrived.  When you have totally no clue that you are doing something wrong; to have a rifle carrying (though very small) policeman and a larger plain clothed man confront you is extremely disconcerting and scary.  Not scary that they would shoot me; but when you’re alone, in a foreign country and officials ask to see your passport; it’s scary.  And of course, I don’t carry my passport so I can’t lose it.  Interestingly, even without showing them any ID, they believed everything I had to say about who I was and why I was there and that I was Jewish.  They asked me that right away and more than once.   They did, however, insist on seeing the photos I had taken.  Luckily none was of the second building, a small school which concerned them the most.   They explained, it was feared,  that photos being on the web with locations would help terrorists attack the buildings.  I was astounded for several reasons.  Being Jewish it was so very odd to be accused of wanting to hurt Jews or anybody for that matter!  Secondly, I had found everything about the synagogue already posted on the web and indicated on my Singapore city map.  It is an official historic landmark. The plain clothed man said he was just doing his job, and that being Jewish I should understand.  Maybe I do and maybe I don’t.  If dressed appropriately, I have never been stopped form entering any other religious institution that I can remember.  Photos though are always iffy, but more from respect than fear.  So I sort of told off this guy in a rather teary way, though then also said that I understood. And when I mentioned our website, he was very vague about telling me that I should or shouldn’t post the photos.  Two opinions from the same man and he wasn’t even Jewish.  Actually, my guess is that he was Muslim since the synagogue is in what is now a Muslim neighborhood. The policeman looked Chinese.   It was definitely becoming a lesson in politics along with religious history.  Then both of the men left me standing there somewhat stunned.  Meanwhile, across the street, an older gentleman was waving from behind the synagogue fence.  Oiy I thought, does he want to yell at me too?  I walked over and immediately apologized for causing trouble.  He waved away my apology, invited me in and said to take all of the photos I wanted.  Wow!  That was a turn of events.  I went in still feeling somewhat of an intruder having caused such a big to do!   I also began to wonder about my shorts and sleeveless shirt.  I certainly wouldn’t have entered a mosque dressed like that.  At least I had my head covered, albeit with a Red Sox hat.  And I wished that I had already skimmed

The Jews of Singapore so had more questions.  I did later that day at the National Library.    Anyway, I was told that this was a Sephardik synagogue different from the Ashkenazim I had grown up in when I asked about the platform in the middle of the room. He was a very nice man and if services weren’t at 7 something in the morning, I would go.  But the first bus doesn’t even leave the marina until 7:30 am.  And, though you can find photos and addresses for the Chesed El Synagogue on the web, I’ll not post them.  I’ll just post the ones I took inside. 

Chesed El was built as a private synagogue by Sir Manasseh Meyer.  It was on his property next to his home.  To have a service requires a minyan, traditionally 10 men.  Because of the location of Chese El there weren’t enough Jews in the area to make up a minyan so Meyer had to have them brought to Chesed El.  I  read one story saying he actually had to pay them and that eventually they struck for more pay.  Oiy!!!

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  The Bima with the Torah                                                                      Close-up of the decorative work                                This is where the Rabbi leads the service located in the center of the room.

So then I thanked the kind man who seemed as if he had seen it all already anyway, made a small donation, and left.  I wasn’t sure then how I felt about the whole thing, and still don’t.  I walked back to Orchard Rd and towards the second synagogue almost stopping at the Coffee Bean for a drink, but decided I didn’t need a Starbucks’ priced cup of tea.  Should have stopped there since it is mentioned as being started and owned by one of the Jewish leading lights of Singapore.  Instead I continued on to the Maghain Aboth Synagogue on Waterloo Road.   It turned out to be just across the street from the art museum.  When I walked out the door of the museum gift shop, if I had just looked across the street I would have seen it.  So I was surprised when I finally discovered that fact.  There was a gate too and a guard house.  So I went expecting another “interview.”  But no, they were lots looser.  It was just that some VIPs were coming in 5 minutes to visit the synagogue, and I sort of would be in the way so I should come back at 2 pm.  It was 11:00 am but I figured this was my day for synagogues so I would come back.  I continued walking and was soon at the Bras Basha Complex at my favorite used book shop.  I bought 2 books @ 2 Sing dollars each and continued to the National Library, just next door.   They have a small restaurant and I could order the mushroom breakfast omelet because it was before 11:30 am.  It came with toast and tea. 

clip_image008  Here’s my tea and I’m waiting for the omelet to be delivered.  Total cost 5.20 Sing which is what a small drink in The Coffee Bean cost.

After lunch I went into the library to the 7th floor reference room.  I knew they had a copy of The Jews of Singapore and also a pictorial history of the Tanjong Pagar area.  Backpacks aren’t allowed but they have free lockable lockers.  I went into the reference room looked up the books’, call numbers.  The reference librarian told they were on the 11th floor.  I went up there, found the books and spent about an hour reading and freezing since I had left my shawl in my backpack.  Most tables were at least half full so I shared with two men.  The place was quiet!  I skimmed both books.  The Jews…told lots about the growth of Singapore and its history up to the present.   The Tanjong Pagar book seemed to be filled with mostly photos form the 1960s and I was more interested in the early history.  About 1:30 I gathered up my stuff, put the books in the “to be reshelved” bin, and went down to retrieve my backpack.  Then, since Commercial Straits Arts was just across the road, I went there to buy some more watercolor paper.  It isn’t easy to find art supplies when out cruising, so I wanted to stock up a little at a time.  I learned about the cotton content of the paper because the people who work there are very knowledgeable and patient.  I paid up, went outside and watched the sky open.  It was a downpour.  So I went back across the street to the library to the circulating books to browse the watercolor books.  There were absolutely no seat there.  All of the tables and chairs were full and the upholstered benches along the walls were occupied too.  I just sat down, yet again with 2 men where there was room for four on some very large benches.  I skimmed the books for a while until I guessed the rain had stopped.  The circulating library is in the basement of the National Library building so it was hard to tell what the weather was doing.  The place was packed but quiet.  It was good to see a library so busy and it still will be my biggest disappointment that I can’t have a card.

Back outside and the rain had mostly stopped.  I walked back to the Maghain Aboth Synagogue.  The guard opened the gate and told me I had to leave my stuff with him and just take my wallet and camera.  I joked that I would be sorry without my umbrella if it started to rain again.  He said there were umbrellas in the Synagogue to use to walk back to the small guardhouse. ( It did rain, and no there were no umbrellas, but the distance was short and I walked fast. )  I also had to show him my Virginia Driver’s License which I do carry and he wrote stuff down and gave me a visitor sticker.  Then I walked over, went in, took the photos, and came out.  There was no one inside to answer questions.  Too bad.  I might have to go back.  There is a small restaurant in the Jewish Community Building next door. 

clip_image009 clip_image011  This is the ladies entrance.

Both synagogues have the center platform where the rabbi leads the service.  They both have balconies.  They both have separate seating for the women since they are Orthodox synagogues.  You can see a Persian rug on the floor, very appropriate since many of the Jews came from India.

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       The front of the Synagogue                                                                        Looking across Waterloo to the Singapore Art Museum.  I would suspect the sink is so men can wash before they enter to pray.

By then it was about 3:30 and I was ready to head home which is how I feel about the boat.  I learned that Dhoby Ghaut was even closer than the Bugis MRT and didn’t require train changing so walked back to where I had started earlier that morning.  It was definitely an experience.  I guess that I expected more, but then maybe they did too.  After all, being Jewish maybe they thought I should want something more from the synagogues than quick photos.  I kinda did and kinda didn’t.  Maybe I’ll go back and learn a little more.  If we were to be here longer, I definitely would.  But two months goes so fast and you have too little time to be repeating too many things.  So we’ll see.  Afterall, it’s just a short walk from the Library. 

The following information comes from The Jewish Welfare Board http://www.singaporejews.com/ourcommunity/history.htm

Singapore is a melting pot of both East and West. Caught betwixt and between the different cultures, this tiny but vibrant island commands an elite position in East Asia. From its colonial days, Singapore has positioned itself as a major port-of-call and has grown into a world-class financial center. Singapore has, from her early independent days, positioned herself to become one of the world’s biggest business and finance centers. And from Singapore’s colonial days, the Jews of Singapore have contributed productively to the nation’s success and development story.
The first Jews to settle there were of Baghdadi origin, mainly from India, who migrated to Singapore when Sir Stamford Raffles established Singapore as a trading post in Singapore in 1819, to find new opportunities.
A couple of decades after the Sultan in 1824 sold the 200 square mile area to England, the Jewish community was large enough to build a synagogue, in 1840, seating 40 persons on what is still known as “Synagogue Street” in the what is now the Financial District.
Within thirty years, the community had blossomed immensely, necessitating the building of a larger Synagogue. In 1875 the community purchased land on what was then called “Church Street” to build a larger Synagogue. In 1878, Maghain Aboth Synagogue was established. It is now the oldest synagogue in East Asia.
An interesting and influential figure at the turn of the century was Sir Manasseh Meyer. A rich Jew (who was then probably the wealthiest in the Far East), he was knighted by Queen Victoria for his part in raising the cultural level of the Singapore territory.  In 1905, due to an increase in population and conflict with some of the community members, he built his own synagogue, Chesed El, on his private estate. His son, Reuben, also endorsed a community centre in his name. Both synagogues have been gazetted as national monuments by the Singapore government.
The 1931 census records that the 832 Jews and the larger number of Arab residents were the largest house property owners in the city.
There were over 1,500 Jewish inhabitants by 1939, when World War II broke out, and the Japanese took over Singapore, The Rock of the East, in a daring surprise attack. Many of the Jews were interned by the Japanese, who were part of the Axis Powers during World War II. After the war, a number subsequently emigrated to Australia, England, the United States, and Israel. As a result, by the late 1960s the community dwindled to approximately 450.
As trade opportunities increased so did the wealth, influence and population of the Jewish community. Apart from their contribution to commerce, Jews have taken a considerable part in political life and in 1955 David T. Marshall, a Jew of Iraq origins, became the first chief minister of the Republic, while Dr. Yayah Cohen became Surgeon General.
Today, there are just over 300 hundred local Jews left, together with the many expatriates and foreign workers, the Singapore Jewish community holds steady at approximately 1000. Both synagogues are active. Despite the small numbers, our community has much to offer her members; a good Jewish education for the youth, weekly discussions, up to the minute gossip and Sabbath luncheons and dinners, which will help to keep the spark burning for generations to come.
The Maghain Aboth Synagogue is open throughout the year, with thrice daily services, while Chesed El conducts Monday morning services and opens throughout the High Holidays. The synagogue is the nucleus of the community. It embodies a sense of unity and perseverance.
The Jewish Welfare Board, a committee of volunteers elected yearly by the Community oversees and manages the community’s affairs
Our Rabbi, Rabbi Mordechai and his wife Simcha Abergel have been serving the community tirelessly and assiduously for over 15 years providing many new facilities and services never experienced before in Singapore, and continue to do so together with our most recent addition, Rabbi Netanel Rivni and his wife, who arrived in 2007.
In each of the last seven years, Chabad has sent a group of their students to help out with the Singapore Jewish community
With the efforts and influence of Mrs. Simcha Abergel and a team of dedicated parents, a Jewish Nursery Day School “Ganenu” was set up. With over 70 children, its students include children from the local community, and expatriates. Ganenu, in the coming will, God willing, see an expansion into primary school, starting with year one and adding as the years progress. Within a few years we should see a fully functional school, providing a Jewish education for all our children, for all ages.
In 2007, a new Jewish community centre opened next door to the Maghain Aboth Synagogue, the Jacob Ballas Centre, named for a local Jewish stock broker, once was chairman of the Singapore Stock Exchange. In this remarkable testament to a great man, all of the Jewish communities’ immediate needs are provided for. It contains offices and apartments for the Rabbis and the Yeshivah Boys, it also has a women’s Mikvah, a slaughtering room for fresh kosher organic chickens, a full service restaurant, a kosher shop and a social hall for Shabbat kiddushes and other functions.
The legacy of a number of Jewish people lives on as seen on the names of various buildings, roads and institutions. Some buildings bear the Star of David, concrete proof of a once wealthy Jewish family. Apart from their contribution to commerce, Jews have taken a considerable part in political life and in 1955 David T. Marshall became the first chief minister of the Republic.

Tanjong Pagar

Hi Everyone,

  More photos from Tanjong Pagar.

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These are the top floors of a restaruant/bar just down the street from MyArtSpace.  These giant Chinese opera masks must be amazing to see lit up at night. 

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“Here among the din of clanging trays, the shouted orders, the tropical heat, and the smells of fermented fish paste, ginger, and curry is a gastronomic and cultural experience that can be had only in Singapore.” www.visitsingapore.com    Only the Zhen Zhen Porridge stall was ever really crowded.  My guess is that weekday lunch is the busiest time and I’m in class. ( I just noticed the ghost woman in the left side of the photo. )  I had a roti here before my second art lesson.  But in Sungei Rengit the customer waits for the roti and here the roti was waiting for me so it wasn’t as good.  But I had a great lamb roti for lunch on Arab Street yesterday when Lang and I met there for lunch.  It’s all called hawker food.  “Well, they are called hawker centers, named after the hawkers (callers) who used to go around the neighborhood crying out to advertise the food that they had to offer (”get your fresh fishball noodles here!!”).

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www.thescarlethotel.com  Interesting place; out of our budget even if we didn’t have a boat to stay on.  Lots of red, black.  But not only at The Scarlet Hotel. 

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http://www.red-dot.de/  Museum brochure                              window reflection                              The Traffic building, very red!

“In November 2005, a second red dot design museum opened in Singapore. It is located in the red dot Traffic, an impressive colonial style building which used to be the headquarters of the traffic police. Today, the building painted in bright red is the creative centre of Singapore and the red dot museum is its main attraction. Apart from the red dot design museum the red dot Traffic houses creative companies such as advertising agencies and design studios.”   

The 1st weekend of each month is MAAD,  a Market of Artists And Designers. “An excuse to do something more exciting with your life. A space for exhibiting, performing, selling, shopping, chit-chatting, surprising and experimenting. A much cheaper and fulfilling alternative to a country club membership. A campaign to save, support and sustain Singapore’s creative souls. A chance to try something for the first time. A place that does not discriminate against pet-owners or small children.”    I will certainly try to go since it’s free. And I’d really like to see the inside of this building. And my nephew might be disappointed if I don’t since he has a Master’s in Industrial Design. 

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“The Jinrikisha Station in Neil Road was constructed in 1903 to ease the heavy load of the (rickshaw) Station in Middle Road. It stands on a triangular plot at the junction of Neil Road and Tanjong Pagar Road and has a curved corner at the junction of these two roads. An extra story was added to the roof, a lantern-shaped structure. Today the Jinrikisha Station building is a seafood restaurant. The Middle Road Station (Office of the Registrar of Vehicles) until recently served as the Work Permit Office of the Ministry of Labour.
   The jinrikisha was invented in Japan in 1869. It meant ‘man-powered carriage’; in the Jinrikisha Ordinance it means ‘a wheeled vehicle for the conveyance of passengers drawn by one or more men.’ The jinrikisha was introduced to Singapore in 1880 from Shanghai. It became the main mode of transport in Singapore and the cheapest. In Malay the jinrikisha was called ‘kreta Hong Kong’. The jinrikisha provided additional employment for a section of the Chinese immigrants in the Colony. The owners of the jinrikisha came from South China primarily from Foochow and Canton. There were about 1000 owners in the 19th century and each 1 to 20 jinrikishas which had to be registered and licensed. These owners hired them out to pullers on two shifts: 6 a.m to 2.p.m. and 3 p.m. to midnight; sometimes the shift ran from 5p.m. to 3 a.m. the following morning. The jinrikisha took the largest proportion of the traffic in the Colony; it was also the cheapest and the most convenient for commuters. The distance the jinrikisha carried its passengers extended from several hundred yards to about two miles. By the early 20th century the jinrikisha became the pride of the road and it was patronised by shoppers, hawkers, colonial officials tourists and even prostitutes. the jinrikisha and their pullers became part of the scene near hotels, markets and in business districts; they could be seen plying in South Bridge Road, New Bridge Road, Collyer Quay, Raffles Place and Tank Road. The pullers particularly competed for the right to operate the lucrative Raffles Hotel pitch. In 1923 about 400 of the pullers fought for this right. The Duxton area in Tanjong Pagar used to be the battleground where pullers from different clans fought one another often to protect their monopoly of the jinrikisha trade. The jinrikisha pullers were hard-working and suffered to earn a meager livelihood. They were exploited by their prosperous owners who collected a very high percentage of their earnings. The owners made a fortune; the cost of a jinrikisha was $25 and its licence $12 per annum. The fare generally was 3 cents for half a mile or 20 cents for one hour; between 1904 and 1916 the rate was 50 to 60 cents per day for a first-class jinrikisha (a puller and a runner behind it for the safety of the passenger) and 15 to 32 cents for a second class one. The Europeans were selective; they looked for pullers who were strong, experienced and had muscular legs! The pullers lived in lodging houses in different parts of the town; these were known as jinrikisha depots. They had inadequate ventilation, they were foul and thick with filth; they were breeding grounds for cholera. These depots had one or more large rooms; the average had two to three rooms and the largest six to nine rooms in the building. The pullers slept on wooden beds in tiers, on canvas or straw cots in the centre of the room and on the floor in the passageway. In the early 20th century one of the major occupational groups residing in Tanjong Pagar were the jinrikisha pullers and one of the depots was located at 135 Tanjong Pagar Road.
The pullers were bachelors in their early twenties. They were young men in search of a livelihood and experience. They generally returned to China with their hard-earned savings every 6 to 10 years. Though life was tough the pullers kept up their morale with a quasi-kinship that bound them to each other. Some of them married young women between the ages of 16 to 20; most did not marry because they did not see a future in Singapore and therefore did not raise a family here.
The jinrikisha traffic increased as the years went by and the population of Singapore grew. As the jinrikisha was a means of transport on public roads the Singapore Municipality established a Jinriksha Department in 1888 to register the vehicle. The necessary Ordinance was passed for its periodic inspection; it also provided for fines and even seizure of the vehicle in certain circumstances.
The Jinrikisha Department coped with the ever increasing number of pullers by renting houses in Beach Road, South Bridge Road and Fort Canning for the inspection and registration of jinrikishas. It became necessary to build a new headquarters. A multi-storey department was built in 1899 at a cost of $34,000 at the junction of Middle Road and Prinsep Street. The quadrangle was used for inspecting vehicles and the ground floor for impounding them. The building had quarters for officers and the Registrar’s Court.
The implementation of the Ordinance was not an easy task; there were grievances by both the owners and their pullers and these led to four major jinrikisha strikes in 1903, 1919, 1920 and 1938.”
Jinrikisha Station
by : Mr Dhoraisingam S. Samuel   from www.streetdirectory.com  hopefully it’s accurate.  It is pretty interesting. 

Ruth Johnson

DoraMac