Category Archives: Turkey

Bozuk Buku

June 8, 2015 Ruth

Marine Apart Otel

Marmaris, Turkey

Merhaba,

We will leave Marmaris Thursday on the 11 am bus for Izmir. Then it will be real for me. Until then it’s just not possible to take it all in. I am excited to be returning to Roanoke but sad to say good-bye to our friends in Marmaris. The packing and airports, not so fun. We will continue with our website. We’ve met many people around the world and now we can show them the US rather than showing our American friends, the world.

This will be my final email until we arrive home as the computer will probably be packed away soon. Tonight will be our last Pineapple Happy Hour and tomorrow the last coffee at Kahve Dünyası …at least for now. One truly never knows the future and we really do like Turkey. It has been very good to us.

DoraMac

Randal chose Bozuk Bükü as an overnight stop because of its short distance from Marmaris and the opportunity to tie up at one of the restaurant docks in the bay. Had we one more day, we would have spent more time hiking around to see the remains of the fortress walls. We’ll have to leave it to Claes and Bertha and their kids to do the exploring.

“Opposite the Greek islands of Rhodes and Symi, this remote bay is completely undeveloped, and sheltered on all sides. On the headland are the remains of Hellenistic fortifications. The Athenian fleet took shelter here during the Peloponnesian War.” http://www.cntraveller.com/recommended/itineraries/classic-itinerary-turkey/viewgallery/479712

http://makedonia-alexandros.blogspot.com.tr/2012/09/loryma-rhodian-fortress-source-of.html tells much more of the fortress’ history.

The Western Shores of Turkey: Discovering the Aegean and Mediterranean Coasts

By John Freely looks to be a good book for anyone exploring this area. https://books.google.com.tr/books?id=84WaOXNwWfoC&pg=PA258&lpg=PA258&dq=ancient+loryma+turkey&source=bl&ots=o5LcKGhbK9&sig=WZBrlLxQQDh1IMMnTt-D9bwe5Tc&hl=en&sa=X&ei=3nF1VdWjFcT4yQO7zILwBg&ved=0CGAQ6AEwDA#v=onepage&q=ancient%20loryma%20turkey&f=false

This restaurant at the ”far end of the bay ” was recommended to us. There are 2 others in the bay.

When we arrived men from the restaurant came to catch our lines and then bring tea. Randal, Bertha and Claes preferred beer so that was brought to the boat too. Afternoon activities were a swim and rest for Bertha and Claes; a nap for Randal; and I went off on a hike to find the donkeys. Then it was time for dinner at 7 at the restaurant.

Bertha was trying to show one of the restaurant staff how to use her phone for photos. This group photo was with my camera. Notice below the name DoraMac it now says, London UK which is where she will be registered. And most likely she will receive a new name that reflect a strong meaning for Claes and Bertha and their family.

Crystal clear water and very rocky beaches

Docking is free but you are expected to eat at the restaurant. Free toilets and showers are also available. This set up is not unusual along the coast.

Relaxing with a bottle of red just before dinner.

A charming fun waiter and a wonderful assortment of meze. We shared two orders of grilled fish and two orders of calamari but the meze would have been quite enough!

Earlier in the afternoon I’d gone for a walk to find the donkeys. These three seemed quite friendly and had I some carrots or apples I could have fed them.

It’s very desolate and only approachable by boat. I climbed up to some of the walls until something hissed at me quite loudly at which point I quickly backed down the hillside. Whether it was a snake or some hissing beetles, I didn’t stick around to find out.

Randal and I went for a quick walk before we left late Saturday morning.

Marina Apart Otel, Marmaris, Turkey

DoraMac training cruise for Claes and Bertha : part 1

June 7, 2015 Ruth

Marina Apart Otel

Marmaris, Turkey

Günaydın,

We’ve had a lovely several days! Friday morning we left for a short 2 day cruise as guests on DoraMac. Sunday afternoon we were invited to the apartment of friends for a lovely farewell lunch. This email is part 1 about our cruise to Bozuk Bükü.

Formerly of DoraMac

Claes and Bertha are experienced sailors. But DoraMac has systems new to them so we went out on a training cruise where they would do all of the work and Randal would stand-by to teach and assist. I had the most relaxing cruise ever as I just had to sit back and watch everyone else do all of the work! The sea was flat and the winds were very light; perfect for a diesel trawler. Our destination was Bozuk Bükü about 27 miles from Marmaris. It is a lovely protected bay where you can tie up to a restaurant dock for the price of an evening meal. We were told to choose the far restaurant if there was room. It’s still early in the season so we found a space along with a half dozen other boats tied or anchored there. It’s a beautiful spot where Claes and Bertha intend to return in August with their children during a month of cruising.

Practice deploying and retrieving the paravane stabilizers.

Only rough seas call for the stabilizers but Bertha and Claes wanted to learn the process while Randal was there to teach them. They handled it quite easily. While Claes prevented the metal fish from touching the sides of the boat Bertha reeled them in far faster than I ever did without even breaking a sweat. I was truly impressed!!!

I’ve never been able to take photos of this process as Randal and I were too busy doing it ourselves and there isn’t time to stop for photos.

Lowering the dinghy and dingy motor

Our second morning we left the dock and dropped anchor in the bay. Claes and Bertha wanted to see how we lowered and then re-secured the dinghy.

Bertha creating gourmet lunches!!!!

Bertha loves to cook and our lunch meals were just wonderful!

She and I had made a trip to the Thursday market the day before so there were fresh fruits, vegetables, olives, cheese and herbs for the wonderful dishes she created. Randal’s “welcome aboard” pecan pie was for dessert.

Bertha and Claes on their boat DoraMac!

We shared the special bottle of wine they’d brought for the occasion just before our celebratory dinner at Neighbors when we returned back to Marmaris.

Marina Apart Otel, Marmaris, Turkey

Türlü Türlü (A little of this and a little of that)

May 27, 2015 Ruth

Marina Apart Otel

Marmaris, Turkey

Iyi Geceler,

This email is Türlü Türlü,

Formerly of DoraMac

I just learned a new Turkish word: tὕrlὕ tὕrlὕ which can mean ‘a little of this and a little of that.’ In the Philippines there was a wonderful dessert called Halo Halo which mean ‘a little of this and little of that.’ I don’t think tὕrlὕ tὕrlὕ is any kind of Turkish dessert but I’ll have to see if something similar exists.

We are revisiting the Yılmaz İskender so I can showcase the man who actually is responsible for the wonderful food they serve. He was moving so fast our first visit my photo of him was too fuzzy, a disappointment to both him and me. As we eat there at least 2 or 3 times each week it was easy enough to take another photo.

The hand is quicker than the camera. No frozen anything slapped on the grill: here it’s all from scratch! Slices are shaved from the grilled chicken and lamb rotisseries for many of the dishes. Roanoke needs this!

The giant cheese, mushroom, tomato omelet with the basket of bread was for me! All of it!!! I ate the cucumber and tomato and 2/3 of the omelet. Ben çok doluydu. I was very full!!!

Jane hosted some of the ladies for dinner because Colin wanted to treat us. She and Coni were doing a strange dance trying not to block each other in the photo. Grace and Gwen watch the antics. You can see the blue stack of the huge Thompson cruise ship in the backside of A Dock.

Coni has the most amazing T-shirt collection. Popeye with bling!

In 2013, our first year in Netsel (second time in Marmaris) we sort of met Susie and Dave. Well Susie anyway. We were berthed quay-side just near the marina entrance and restaurant row I was out hanging laundry for everyone to see. Susie and a friend walked by. We made enough of a memorable contact that our next meeting reminded both of us of the laundry! That meeting was in Nisyros, Greece where Susie and David caught our lines when we pulled up to the town dock. We were very new to Med mooring so that was very helpful. Susie and David live near London so we exchanged cards thinking to meet up and lo and behold, they came to visit us at St Katherine’s Dock. They time-share ownership of a sailboat and were cruising near the Marmaris area when recent rough weather brought them into Netsel for the night. They were pulled up at the fuel dock when David noticed our boat and came to say hello. We were invited to their boat for drinks and meet their longtime friends Anne and Piero who had joined them for some sailing.

We had a very lovely time during which I had my first Pimm’s # 1. Quite good I must say. I had 2 small glasses and could walk and talk afterwards so it’s not so strong….? Not totally unlike Sangria only better I think.

“Pimm’s No. 1, a gin-based liqueur, is named after James Pimm, the bar owner who created it in the mid 1800s. By the 1860s, it was bottled. Why “No. 1”? Well, at one point, there were other “cups,” numbered 2 through 6, based on brandy, rum and other spirits.

But the No. 1, a reddish tonic with citrusy and bitter notes, has always been the star, and it is not quite like anything else on the shelf. Over the years, it has developed a reputation as a quintessentially British refresher, consumed in ungodly amounts every year at Wimbledon.” http://www.nytimes.com/2012/06/13/dining/the-pimms-cup-grows-in-popularity-as-a-summer-cocktail.html

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/foodanddrinkadvice/10914086/How-to-make-the-perfect-Pimms.html

We made a plan to meet at 9:30 next morning at Kahve Dünyası before they left the next day to continue their sailing in what was to be better weather.

Randal Susie and Dave who was game enough to try a mug of Salep at my recommendation.

Piero and Ann ( I am hopefully spelling his name anywhere near what it really is )

Marina Apart Otel, Marmaris, Turkey

update

May 24, 2015 Ruth

May 24, 2015

Marina Apart Otel

Marmaris, Turkey

Günaydın,

On the 21^st Randal and I moved off DoraMac to the small hotel near the marina. We return each day to clean and get her in shipshape for Claes and Bertha who will arrive on June 1^st. They are the new owners of DoraMac. She will definitely be in good hands for the next adventure in her life.

DoraMac

Marmaris, Netsel Marina, Turkey

Flowers for Colin

May 16, 2015 Ruth

B Dock Netsel Marina

Marmaris, Turkey

Merhaba

We had a memorial Happy Hour for our friend Colin. Then we all attended his funeral in the Iҫmeler cemetery. This past Saturday was the day to make his grave into a garden.

DoraMac

Flowers for Colin

Friday Jane and Coni had biked to the big nursery just near the amphitheater not far from the Thursday market. Jane selected a variety of plants for Colin’s grave and the very kind owners delivered all of the plants to the marina. On Saturday I joined Jane and Coni for a trip to the cemetery to plant everything. When you visit Colin you can see the lovely garden Jane has made for him.

The Iҫmeler Cemetery just off the old Datҫa Road.

The driveway is just a bit further and there’s a road up to the higher part where the non-Turks are buried. I can’t call those buried here foreigners as all had chosen to make Turkey their home.

The rock garden at one end was created when we cleared the soil for the plants.

The plastic containers and the white stones were reused to decorate around the roses and to hold some of the plants. The containers had held a display from Colin’s sister April and her sons James and Robin. Other notes and ribbons from bouquets were also arranged among the plants.

There are 3 rose bushes and on the center one is a Valentine’s card Jane had made for Colin years ago. He’d saved it.

Marmaris, Netsel Marina, Turkey

Yılmaz İskender for the best Lahmacun lunch! Or maybe an Omelet or lamb wrap.

May 16, 2015 Ruth

Merhaba,

It’s a lovely time in Marmaris. The sun shines every day, but the blazing heat hasn’t yet arrived. Our days our definitely winding down here. We left the boat yard in China in June of 2007 so it’s fitting that we leave DoraMac again in June.

This is another “food” email mostly about my new favorite food – lahmacun. Oddly, I think my first one was in London! But I’ve just recently gotten hooked on them because of the very light crispy crust and the great greens that are served with them here in Turkey. Roket/arugula is also a favorite and the markets are booming with it now as the real fruit and veggie season is in full swing.

DoraMac

Yılmaz İskender for the best Lahmacun lunch! Or maybe an Omelet or lamb wrap.

We eat lunch in town just about every day so have become ‘regulars’ in several of the local places away from the more touristy waterfront. One of our newer favorites is Yılmaz İskender. The food is really good and the prices are pretty unbeatable.

Cape Cod Coni put us on to this place as her favorite for take away wraps. Randal and I often stroll over for lunch. Lamb wraps, hamburgers with real French fries, lots of salad greens and the biggest omelet in Marmaris with lots of salad and fries! I do mean the biggest that falls off the edge of the plate.

The restaurant’s Master of Ceremonies! And the guys who make the food so good.

My new favorite is the lahmacun with a plate of arugula (roket) cucumber, tomato, parsley and lemon.

The photo on the left gives you a better idea of the size where the one on the right looks as huge as the table. I like the flavor and crispiness but the salad stuff just clinches it for me.

“This Middle Eastern countries are no strangers to versions of pizza and this one is commonly found in Turkey. The paper-thin lahmacun is a popular lunch time snack. Lemon is liberally squeezed over and then it is rolled up with sliced tomatoes and parsley. “ Secrets of the Turkish Kitchen by Angie Mitchell Sunkur The crust is paper thin which makes it so good and the lamb is a spicy kick to it. I can eat the entire plateful and not feel stuffed. I totally prefer this to even thin crust pizza and I definitely don’t miss the cheese. I’d like it with garlic, olive oil and lamb too!

Yılmaz translates to Indomitable. Iskender is a Turkish dish which I just learned was named for its originator Iskender Efendi. Iskender was our friend Ed’s favorite dish. I prefer the lamb wraps which aren’t quite so huge or drenched in butter.

“ İskender kebap is one of the most famous meat foods of northwestern Turkey and takes its name from its inventor, İskender Efendi, who lived in Bursa in the late 19th century.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C4%B0skender_kebap

“It is basically pide bread cut into small pieces, topped with thin slices of döner meat, tomato sauce garnished with yogurt and pickled or grilled green pepper — and the taste enhancer of all, hot melted butter poured on top of everything before eating. It sounds so simple, doesn’t it?” http://www.todayszaman.com/expat-zone_iskender-is-the-kebab-i-seek_153682.html

http://videosofturkey.com/video_details.asp?id=291 Iskender Kebap (Doner Kebap), was introduced by Iskender Efendi (1848-1934) in Bursa in 1860s. He started roasting the lamb, which had been cooked parallel to a fire on the ground for centuries, on a large vertical spit.

These famous Turkish restaurants (original ones) serve with 3 restaurants in Bursa and Istanbul (Kadikoy)

Marmaris, Netsel Marina, Turkey

Not Girl Scout Cookies or school candy bars….

May 12, 2015 Ruth

Hi Everyone,

Some of you have met my nephew Andrew or read about him when he came to London and stayed with Randal and me on DoraMac. He teaches design and is a designer/maker. http://www.andrew-dahlgren.com/ is his website and you can watch the TED talk he gave recently in Philadelphia. Very interesting (and I’m not just being a biased aunt.) He is trying to compete for a grant and needs some votes. If you have facebook it’s simple. You just click on the link below and then vote for Andrew.

Thanks for thinking about it and double thanks if you vote.

From Andrew:

“Hello! I have entered the Chase Mission Main Street Grant competition to win $100,000! To make it to the juried round I need 250 votes by June 18.

Please follow this link —

https://www.missionmainstreetgrants.com/b/19485 — and vote for me!

…

To vote you need a Facebook account. So please repost and share the link with friends and family.

The application process required me to respond to five questions about my business. Only the jury will see the answers. However I thought it would be helpful to share how I would use the grant if I won it.

The majority of the grant funds will be used to purchase a Stoll industrial scale automated knitting machine, one of the world’s most advanced knitting machines. The next largest amount of the grant funding will be used to establish an apprenticeship program to train people to use both manual and automated knitting machines. The training program will consist of a six month paid apprenticeship for two people. The training will cover all steps of the knitting based manufacturing process – from understanding knitted textile structures to learning Stoll software to running and maintaining the knitting machines to garment assembly. Upon completion of the apprenticeship program the new trainees will be promoted to creative technicians to run equipment on a daily basis. The investment in technology and onsite workforce development will instantly allow my company to take on a new scale of orders that I haven’t been able to manage with my existing technology and time limitations. This will take our existing technology, skilled workers, and design to a new level of both profitability and impact. This growth will be replicated over time by continuing to invest in technology, new apprentices, and expanding our in-house design offerings.

Thanks for supporting my work and spreading the word!

See More <https://www.facebook.com/andrew.dahlgren.philly>

Andrew Dahlgren – Chase Mission Main Street Grants <https://www.missionmainstreetgrants.com/b/19485>

Vote for Andrew Dahlgren at https://www.missionmainstreetgrants.com/b/19485

– Chase’s Mission Main Street Grants program for Small Business is in full swing! Apply or vote today! Learn more here: www.missionmainstreetgrants.com <http://www.missionmainstreetgrants.com/>

missionmainstreetgrants.com

Marmaris, Netsel Marina, Turkey

"Home is the sailor home from the sea." Good-bye to Colin, Mayor of the Netsel Marina

May 4, 2015 Ruth

B Dock Netsel Marina

Marmaris Turkey

“Home is the sailor home from the sea.” Good-bye to Colin, Mayor of the Netsel Marina

“Under the wide and starry sky,

Dig me a grave, there let me lie,

Glad did I live and gladly I die,

And I laid me down with a will,

And this be the verse that you ‘grave for me:

Here he’s at rest where he wanted to be,

Home is the sailor home from sea, and the hunter home from the hill.

Requiem by Robert Louis Stevenson

Everyone’s friend Colin died today.

We called him The Mayor because he helped with so many of the marina activities. He previewed and then showed the Monday night movies. He hosted the Monday morning cruisers’ radio NET always starting off with ‘Monday Monday’ so that once when he didn’t, everyone let him know! Colin initiated the morning coffee ‘social’ at Khave Dünyası and everyone was welcome; cruisers, townies, a visiting Middle East princess, a seasonal hotel worker from Moldova. And he remembered names no matter what language they were in. He was a helping hand when people needed it.

Colin has ‘gone home from the sea’ and Netsel Marina is filled with sadness.

Colin and his wife Jane at Christmas 2014

DoraMac

Marmaris, Netsel Marina, Turkey

Painting at the Dog Shelter

May 2, 2015 Ruth

B Dock Netsel Marina

Marmaris, Turkey

Merhaba,

Our time on DoraMac is growing very short; but there’s still time for an adventure or two. This past Saturday I went to help at the Dog Shelter which I’d never done before. Wednesday I’m going with Coni and another Ruth to the Movie Theater to see The Second Best Marigold Hotel. In our 3 visits to Marmaris, I’ve never been to the Movie Theater. I saw the first Marigold Hotel on the plane from somewhere to somewhere.

Today Randal and I bought two more huge suitcases to pack up books, clothes, art supplies, more books and a few souvenirs that we’ve collected over the years. Pretty much everything else is staying aboard. Towards the end of the month we’ll take all of our stuff and move to an apartment and then give the boat a good cleaning for when Claes and Bertha return June 1^st for a crash course in “DoraMac.” We are in the process of turning over ownership of DoraMac and when the final i is dotted and t crossed I’ll let everyone know.

DoraMac

Painting at the Dog Shelter

Several of the cruisers donate their time to the dog shelter. I don’t go because I just know I’d end up with a dozen dogs and that would not be good. So Randal and I just donate money to the shelter and to several folks feeding the homeless dogs and cats around town. But this past Saturday I did go with Maryam and Eva to help paint at the shelter. We thought we’d be painting the walls in some of the buildings at the complex. But that wasn’t the case. We were to do decorative painting! I think I still have some blue paint in my hair and yellow on my hands, but everything that needed painting was painted. And in this warm, dry time of year the shelter is at its best with the dogs free to roam around the grounds, warm and safe and dry. The dogs didn’t seem sad; but you could tell they all wanted to be someone’s. I really wish people had to take a test before they could own a pet and prove they were worthy.

http://www.marmarisanimalwelfare.com/ is the website for the shelter

https://www.facebook.com/marmarisanimalwelfare is the facebook page

http://gayeturkel.blogspot.com.tr/p/night-club-bar-wall-paintings.html is a link to Gaye Tὕrkel’s website and some of her artwork.

The event officially began at 2 pm, but several of the volunteers were already there when we aarrived about 1:30.

Coffee, tea and snacks were sold to raise funds for the shelter. Lovely decorated cookies too cute to eat!

I bought two slices of wonderful coffee cake to take home.

Maryam in the white hat and Eva in the peach shirt were painting one of the dog houses.

Maryam works on the stone wall of the dog enclosure.

The artist Gaye Tὕrkel guided the artists as they painted and she also added the more decorative touches.

Unfortunately I was sort of on my own……

My creation with lots of encouragement and some “help” from other folks. One of the men had started this by painting the roof two shades of blue saying it was supposed to be sky. He said I should finish it and add clouds. The clouds (lighter blue paint) just made it look like the roof was half finished. So then we found some dull yellow and I painted what was supposed to be a sun. Then I added grass and flowers.

Then the heart. Then the I and Dogs.

Marmaris, Netsel Marina, Turkey

Catching up

April 27, 2015 Ruth

B Dock Netsel Marina

Marmaris, Turkey

Merhaba,

I haven’t written for a while as my friend Sheila pointed out recently. But all is well. We are in the process of selling DoraMac. When everything has been completed, I will write about it and introduce the new owners. In the meantime, Randal is going over everything on the boat so it will be a ready for the new owners who plan to return in June for Randal to do some intensive training. Then we will open the special bottle of wine to celebrate.

In the meantime several of us all went off to Annette to get our hair trimmed, cut, highlighted and “fringed.”

Coni getting her hair trimmed by Annette before getting the top highlighted. Me with my new “fringe” or what we call bangs. I also had several inches cut off the bottom.

This past Saturday Randal and I went to the small art and culture center. I’d noticed the exhibit was about Ataturk and knew Randal would be interested.

Although neither Randal or I are experts on either Turkish history in general, or Mustafa Kemal Ataturk in particular, we are both great admirers of the goals he had for Turkey. Modernism, equality for women, a secular government. Randal has wanted a portrait of Ataturk to hang in what will be “his space” when our future home is built. Saturday we found one painted by a local artist. It will be perfect.

Benim Atatürk’üm My Ataturk 1 was the exhibit at the Art and Culture House

M.(Mehmet) Korkmaz Picture Exhibition

“Dedicated to my dear father Mustafa Korkmaz”

Mehmet Korkmaz and Randal with the portrait Randal had chosen.

https://www.facebook.com/people/Mehmet-Korkmaz/1105177803 is the facebook page of the artist, but alas, it’s all in Turkish.

One day the painting will hang in our house in Roanoke, but for now, it will hang in the saloon on DoraMac.

Below is the translation of the local article about the artist and the exhibit. The translation is not good to say the least, but two quotes by the artist do stand out and make it worth reading.

Mugla (UAV) Marmarisli retired tradesman painter Mehmet Korkmaz, consisting of pictures of Atatürk “My Ataturk I” 2. Give the name of the collection that opened his personal exhibition.

Marmaris Municipality Culture and Art House Exhibition Hall yesterday (April 21, 2015) to place the opening ceremony; Vice President Dursun Marmaris Municipality Kaplan, CHP Councillors Acer Celebrities and participated in numerous art lovers.

Speaking at the opening Korkmaz painter; When I finished school teacher in 1974, my greatest desire was to enter the picture in any part of the fine arts academy. But I could not enter.

I desire to make images; My heart is always somewhere in the painting waited When I created the environment. After retiring, but I was able to capture this opportunity. Since three years I tried to do something on my own scale amateurish. Of course I have an academic career. What my time nor the opportunity to have such a career after this time. Marmaris three years since, despite not getting the money I wanted and with the possibilities of Marmaris Municipality “Art Street” where I tried to open an area known as the pictures about myself. No countertop make me money even if I win big picture tirelessly tried to explore new worlds. That street was my school. My father Mustafa Korkmaz teachers have participated in the six-month tutorial Aksu Village Institute in 1942, three years after finishing primary school and “trainers” has become known as the tutorial teacher status. My father was a teacher for thirty three years in the village and in the surrounding villages. My dear father was one of the unsung heroes of enlightenment in Turkey Mustafa Korkmaz gratitude and remembrance mercy goes on, I am dedicating my show my father. “He said.

All studied oil painting technique consisting of 50 pictures Korkmaz exhibition will remain open until 28 April.

http://translate.google.com.tr/translate?hl=en&sl=tr&u=http://www.hurriyet.com.tr/yerel-haberler/Mugla-Haberleri/marmaris-te-benim-ataturk-um-resim-sergisi-il_96773&prev=search

Mehmet Korkmaz has a stall in Iҫmeler just down the seaside from Marmaris.

To learn more about Ataturk go to this link from our website. http://www.mydoramac.com/ankara-trip-day-1-part-2-ataturk/ It tells of our visit to the Atatürk mausoleum and museum complex in Ankara in 2013. Atatürk was a Turkish nationalist leader and the founder and first president of the republic of Turkey.