Category Archives: Turkey

New Friends

Dock B Netsel Marina

Marmaris Turkey

Merhaba,

     In our process of selling DoraMac we have met such interesting people.  Charles and Doris are ready to begin their boating life.  They came from Switzerland to Marmaris to look at a boat in Yat Marin but also came to see DoraMac to learn about Diesel Ducks.  We had a lovely visit with them while they were here.  They would walk into town each day from their hotel and meet us for lunch and some exploring.  We took them to our new favorite lamb wrap place in Marmaris, Dὂgel Dὂrner .  Saturday Charles rented a car and we took a drive to Bozburun and Selimiye.   

Our first visit to Turkey in 2011, Randal and I took a motor bike trip around the Bozburun peninsular so “mostly remembered” the really scenic route which starts along the coast and then crosses over the mountain on a road just wide enough for a car. It was as lovely now as it was then and with just a few missed turns we managed to make our way.  The most direct route is so much less fun.  Both Doris and Charles were amazed at how much it reminded them of Switzerland.

For all of our pals somewhere on the east side of the US, we hope the weather ever gets better again.  And trying to explain to folks here why a groundhog has any say in predicting our weather which I only now know because I read http://www.groundhog.org/about/history/  didn’t go well but I could now.  We also had to agree on what a ground hog actually was. 

Ru

DoraMac

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Looking down on a rainbow! 

We took a drive over the mountains and through the woods.  The weather kept changing from sun to some rain but it made for lovely photos.  And it only rained hard while we were in drinking coffee in Osmaniye and later when we stopped in Selimiye for lunch.

Ṣahin Café and Restaurant where we stopped on our motorbike in June of 2011.  It was so fun to find the same place and stop again.  Last time it was for lunch.  This time it was for coffee.  The owner brought out bread, two kinds of marmalade, gourd and watermelon, and some lovely herbed goat cheese.  Randal and I went home with some of the gourd marmalade and some goat cheese.

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Rolling the flat bread that is a slightly chewy buttery tasting bread just a bit doughier than an English muffin, but almost as light.  She was rolling out several loaves that were placed set under the towels until it was their turn into the oven.

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Yum!!!!!

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The big plastic bottles were filled with the goat cheese which is also great on salad.

We arrived in Bozburun but so did the rain.  As not much looked opened and no one was quite ready for lunch, we decided to head back towards Marmaris and stop in Selimiye for lunch hoping it would clear up again.  Charles wanted some photos of the boats being built so we stopped at one of the many yards in the area. 

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The skeleton of a wood gullet

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Doris and Charles. a retired Swiss news cameraman who probably got way better pictures than I did.

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One of the workers was happy to answer questions.

From Bozburun we headed to Selimiye looking for lunch.  I think we found the only restaurant that was open but it was just what we wanted.  Warm and charming with good food.  A fire was burning but electric heaters were turned on and soon we were warmed from the chilly day. 

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Charles and Doris

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A lovely setting on the bay

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A map showing Turkish vineyards. 

http://www.mydoramac.com/motorbike-adventure/ our first attempt to motorbike to Bozburun in June of 2011.

http://www.mydoramac.com/biking-to-bozburun/ our actual motorbike trip to Bozburun 2011

Chinese New Year

B Dock  Netsel Marina

Marmaris Turkey

Iyi Akşamlar,

    Any remote reason for a potluck and we go for it.  Last week we celebrated Chinese New Year.  Thanks to some really good cooks, we had the best Chinese food in Marmaris.  The fact that it might be the only Chinese food doesn’t take away from how good it all tasted.  In March it will be St. Patrick’s Day.  In between there have been birthday dinners celebrated over at Bono’s  where we fill the place and make the owners and staff very happy.  And every event is just a short walk from our boat.  B dock is great!

Ru

DoraMac

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Chinese New Year of the Sheep celebrated at Netsel Marina in Marmaris, Turkey.

The lanterns, reflected in the window, were made by Jill and Coni and Gamze.

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Jill created the wall hanging and she and Roberto dressed for the occasion!

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That must have been some story Roberto was telling as Gwen, Fusun, Arif, and Gamze seemed intent on hearing every word.

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I’ve named the Sailor’s Point cat Kara which means dark in Turkish.  She comes to most events but won’t enter into the room unless absolutely invited.  She does know there will be great pot luck leftovers and she’ll get her share.  Otherwise she gets cat kibble that Coni brings for her during the week when folks meet for yoga, movie night, and crafts. 

  After our amazing meal of wonderful Chinese food (even my garlic broccoli got eaten)we played Bingo.

Each card was 1 Turkish lira.  The money was divided among the winners. 

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Gamze and Coni were the bingo callers.    Kan was the first to fill up one row and then he filled the second row winning some lira for each win.

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But Deborah was the big winner as she was the first to fill the entire card. 

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Coni checking the winning numbers.

I cannot remember the last time I played bingo, but it fun! 

Hat making part 3

B dock

Netsel Marina

Marmaris, Turkey

Ru

DoraMac

Hat making continues

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Jane setting up her machine.  Jane is amazing and can sew up just about anything her boat needs.  She loaded up her machine and brought it to Sailors’ Point for our Wednesday session.

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Deborah had sewn decorations on her hat and now was having the hat sewn together by Jane

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Beginning to shape the hat

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Fitting the hat

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Enough decorations?  Gamze was helping Deborah place the one final star

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Coni had hers fitted and now was ready to sew on her stars and moons.

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Meanwhile Coni and Jill had been crafting red lanterns for our upcoming Chinese New Year pot luck dinner. 


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Hat making part 2

B Dock

Netsel Marina

Marmaris, Turkey

Iyi Akşamlar,

   If I say it has been cold and blustery here in Marmaris most of you would roll your eyes thinking I have no earthly clue what cold and blustery really feels like.  But this morning at “hat making” Deborah said she was freezing and her real home is Alaska!  She wore her new fleece hat home!  I grew up in MA so I know there’s no comparison and I hope some of that global warming hits New England and starts melting some of that snow but not in a way to cause lots of flooding.   

   Today was actually our 3rd hat making session and I still have nothing to show for it. Deborah just about finished hers and it looked really cute!   Hopefully next week mine will be finished.  I’m doing a double layer fleece to make it really warm for next season or next week depending on what our weather does.    This email was from a week ago.  I’ve been reluctant to send emails because something isn’t working so well and the pictures have become problematic.  Next week I’ll take the computer to Platin and if there’s any hope for my old computer, Fatma will work some miracle and fix it all up.  She’s a wiz!

Ru

Doramac

Hat Making continues… part 2

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We’d bought the material and now it was time to cut out the hats; Deborah was the first to start and then Jill fitted it to her head.

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Jill Margaret Deborah Lisa and Gamze in red.

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Remember Coni’s old pjs?  They became decorations for the hats.

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Jill showing everyone how to do the blanket stitch to sew the decorative bits to the hat.

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Gamze was working on her needlepoint and Jill on her sock even as she directed the hat making.

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Margaret, a friend from the marina in North Cyprus and also now in Marmaris, is being taught the “European” way to hold knitting needles by Jill.

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I was working on this painting of a whirling dervish.  It came out terrible because I left too little room for his feet and when I tried to fix it…..dum de dum dum.  Next week I’ll work on a hat!

Papier Mache wildlife

B Dock

Netsel Marina

Marmaris, Turkey

Günaydın,

It is a good morning here. It’s supposed to rain later but just now the sun is trying to be there. I wish I could switch our weather with New England for a while. A very short while; Marmaris would come to a complete stand still, but they would get a well-deserved break.

The hat making group is progressing quite nicely. Wednesday Jane will bring her sewing machine to Sailor’s Point and stitch them together. It will be quite a fashion show when they’re done.

The papier mache exhibit at the Art and Culture Center was one of my favorite because it was so fun.

Ru

DoraMac

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My favorites

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Wouldn’t think a girl from Cape Cod would like the shark best.

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Artist Orhan Kubilay Doḡuṣ

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The man smiling is the artist’s dad.

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Jane Deborah Jill Coni

Hat Making Part 1

B Dock

Netsel Marina

Marmaris, Turkey

Merhaba,

While back in Roanoke, my friend Becky and I went down to the city market to have lunch and walk through the small shops. One of those shops, “La De Da” http://ladeda.net/ had a quirky little hat that just seemed to have my name on it. I walked out without buying it but then walked back in to get it. Not buying it would have been a “regret.” Becky was cheering me on so that helped. It’s not really my usual style, so having Becky’s opinion was quite nice. I wore it to our first Wednesday craft meeting and it was a big hit. So the clever needlewomen among us suggested that we each make one for ourselves. Jane has a sewing machine so offered to do the major sewing. Jill said that she could make a pattern. Here’s part 1 of the hat story.

Ru

DoraMac

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Amazingly I haven’t lost it yet! Having a spare will be a good thing. Selfie with hat!

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Coni donated these fleece pjs for the project.

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Jane with the scissors and Jill work up the beginnings of a pattern while Fusan looks on.

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Fitting the pattern to Coni’s head.

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Coni was a very patient model

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Brain surgery?

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This will be a very fun project!

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Fusan was finishing up a sweater for Valentine’s Day! Lots of project happen Wednesday mornings. Like our paste paper and small books.

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A group of us went off to buy some fleece to make the hat liners. As the piece of material was being cut for us, I yelled, “Stop!” surprising everyone until they saw me get by camera from my pack. I plan to document the entire process so needed to show us buying the material.

Jane and Connie’s Marmaris Tour

B Dock

Netsel Marina

Marmaris, Turkey

Günaydın,

   I was about to complain about yet another day of rain, but compared what the folks back home up north have to deal with, no comparison.  And I did even manage to get in a 40 minute walk between showers this morning.  One stop along my way was the woman at the boat paint shop who feeds lots of the stray dogs and cats.  I periodically stop by and chip in some TL for her to buy more food or take an animal to the vet.  Then I walked up the hill to the road out of town just to use some of my “uphill’ muscles which I noticed were very rusty on our hike last Friday.  Actually it was my lungs rather than my legs that need the work so maybe this hill thing should become a daily occurrence, at least when the rain’s not raining. 

   Yesterday Jane, Connie, Jill and I did the ‘shoppers tour of Marmaris.”   Jill is newish to Marmaris.  Jane and Connie have been here for “donkey’s ears/years*,”  so they offered to show her their favorite shops.  I went along for the company and to document the day.   (We have enough stuff to lug home to Roanoke as it is and that’s with leaving most of the furnishing on the boat for the new owners, whomever they may be.)  It was all great fun and good exercise too.

Ru

DoraMac

1st  stop  :  Le Shop  Turkish Arts and Crafts

Ali Atabey owner  (Ata means father and Bey means man making for an interesting last name. Like Ataturk, is Father of Turkey.)

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Jane, Connie and Jill

Hard to see them, but the puppet looking things in the window are made from camel leather.  I might have to have one before we leave.  

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They are a bit translucent so we were surprised that they were made from camel leather.

At Sunday night’s potluck Jane brought some hors-d’oeuvres made from camel sausage which was quite good actually.  If I could eat yak in Tibet, no reason not to eat camel in Turkey.

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Camel bone boxes which are decorated inside as well.  In New England whale bone was used once upon a time.

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Ali wasn’t there; his father happily let us browse and me take photos.

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Like being in Aladdin’s cave.

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The hand-embroidered pillow covers are very tempting too.

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Less fun, but necessary; kitchen wares.  Neither Jane nor Jill found what they needed so we went off to another shop further down Ataturk Boulevard.

We’d met up at 11 am, visited Ali’s and the 2  household supply shops.   I was getting hungry so we stopped off for a snack.  Unfortunately they weren’t making the gὂzleme (stuffed pancakes) so we had slices of pizza instead with our Turkish tea and Nescafe.

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Yakal Pet Shop came next. 

Connie has a cat and Jane has Buttons the dog.  This is their pet shop of choice in Marmaris.

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Connie wanted a picture of the birds.  There was definitely some strange chirping after the flash went off.  (Probably bird for ‘What the hell was that?’

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Neither rain, nor rain, nor more rain…..

But there was no wind so we stayed mostly dry even with the on and off rain showers.  I think Jane might have the best legs in Marmaris!

Next was the Import Shop.  Randal and I came here our first days in Marmaris while waiting for DoraMac to be delivered back in April 2011.  We stayed at the Dost Otel across the street.  The owners of the hotel and the shop are brothers.  Both very kind and helpful men.  What’s imported here is just about the opposite of what’s imported at home.  Funny how that happens.  He also sells pork products which aren’t available at many grocery shops though the Migros near the marina now sells bacon. 

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Randal and I come here for Cheddar cheese and Randal’s bran flakes cereal.

Marmaris’ version of Hallmark with cards in English.  This shop was new to me as I’d passed by but never gone in.

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The front window is home to this cat with its own cat door to get in and out!

The House of Art and Culture came next where we stopped to look at the exhibit.  Some we liked and some, not so much

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Like, Le Shop, this ceramics shop is where everyone goes. Elhamra Çini ceramic shop. Like being in a museum.

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We were offered tea, so typical of Turkish hospitality.   Near the tea is a bowl with small plastic chips in it.  When the tea is delivered, chips are placed in the bowl.  5 glasses of tea  = 5 circular chips.  After a while the shop owner takes the chips to the tea shop and settles up.  Isn’t that cool!

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Jane,  Ibrahim, Jill and Connie

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Just for us!

*http://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/donkeys-years.html

Friday Hike

B dock

Netsel Marina

Marmaris, Turkey

Merhaba,

    This past Friday a group of us went on a hike lead by John, a British xpat who has lived here about 5 years (if I remember correctly.)  Like most Brits, he is a walker/hiker.  Not knowing our strengths or weaknesses for that matter, he started us out on a moderate 5 mile hike.  The weather gods smiled and it was a perfect day.  Randal, with a list of boat chores, stayed behind and worked very hard.  I think we were equally pooped by the end of the day.

Ru

DoraMac

Friday Hike on the Southern Aegean

“Located on Reşadiye peninsula of the holiday town of Marmaris, the Bördübet cove is a small fishing and beekeeping village. Bördübet faces the Gökova Gulf and is surrounded by dense forests. Like many other coves in the area, it has a unique nature. Golden Key Bördübet is 27 kilometers from Marmaris and 55 kilometers from Datça.

Bördübet, which means “bird’s bed,” was aptly named by English soldiers who hid in this cove (during WW 1) many years ago. The area is home to many species of birds, including rock doves, goldfinches, nightingales, piscivorous  (eating mostly fish)  birds, sparrow hawks and many other kinds of birds. It is perfectly safe to watch and listen to the birds, but if you are to take a walk into the depths of the forest, it is better to first consult with the local inhabitants.

The most significant feature of the cove is the river that flows through the dense pine forest and empties out into the sea. Surrounded by green pine trees, the sea makes for a wonderful view, particularly for photographers. The region provides a relaxing, stress-free haven away from the city. The place where the river meets the sea creates an interesting cove reminiscent of a small Amazon forest, with all its plant, animal and bird diversity. It is home to many wild animals such as wild boars, rabbits, squirrels, foxes, and badgers.

Because of its unique forest location, Bördübet offers rare shadows and cool weather even on the hottest days of August.  http://www.tophotelsinturkey.com/Details-Online-Hotel-Booking.asp?id=20220120626120144170

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“An extraordinary place in deep, wild forest, far removed from all jarring traces of modern Turkish development. There is a deep and deserted bay within walking distance, with spectacularly clear water and a small private beach where you are unlikely to see more than a dozen bathers at any time. There is a quiet stream and miles of lush wilderness in the background. There are no alligators, though you’d almost expect to see them here.

   The founder and ruler of Camp Amazon is Mr Güneş Tecelli, a retired journalist of legendary fame. His wit and sense of humour are evident in many small details around the camp. In addition to plenty of space to set up your tent, the grounds offer a nice swimming pool and a restaurant of considerable local fame. There are a number of extremely basic, if functional, bungalows for the tentless guests.

   There is a semi-paved road to the camp from Değirmenyanı, 14 km West of Marmaris, as well as a more scenic gravel road that branches off from the narrowest point of the Datça Peninsula and skirts close to the sea.”  http://www.kucukvebutikoteller.com/eng/amazon-club

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Marmaris wasn’t far down the highway, but the dirt road from the highway was windy and curvy and we were all a bit greenish when we arrived.  Golden Kew is a resort island which is closed this time of year so we had the trail entirely to ourselves.

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Starting out was flat by a lovely farm area on one side and scrub covered hills on the other.

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John, our hike leader, pointed out the floating pieces of wood in the trough.  The wood is for bees to rest on while they get a drink and not drown in the process.  Also, indentions in the wood hold water also for them to drink.  Who knew?    Below is a suggestion for a bee waterer. 

“set up a water feeder by filling a pie pan with marbles and then water.  The marbles give the bees a spot to land so that they don’t drown when they come to drink”  http://www.waldeneffect.org/blog/Building_a_bee_waterer/

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We drove up and down to get to the hike’s start and then we walked along the coast and then climbed up and over and then down to where we’d started.  My lungs aren’t quite used  to “up” as all of our walking is flat along the coast most of the time.

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Very desolate and lovely but I think part of the protected Turkish National Forest.

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Not me.

This is Gamze who also has wild dark hair taking a photo of her husband Kaan walking ahead down the mountain.

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Quinn and his dad Gary having a great father-son moment.

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Dale and Jane up on the ridge.

This is a great image to use for learning to add people in the landscape of watercolor painting.  Just silhouettes.

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A final photo op; Dale with Quinn and Gary off to the side.

A small village or homestead (not sure)  just at the beginning/end of our walk. 

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A sweater or scarf from her shaggy coat would be lovely.  Or yogurt or cheese.

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Lots of bee keeping in this area.

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Wouldn’t you love to hear her stories! 

I think the walk we did was part of the Carian Trail which does have a section by Bördübet.

“The Carian Trail – named after the ancient region of Caria in south-west Asia Minor – recently opened to the public. It stretches from Bodrum and Karpuzlu, by the Aegean Sea in the west, around the Gulf of Gokova, to Icmeler, by the Mediterranean in the south-east. The new trail is already hot on the heels of the Lycian Way, Turkey’s most popular long-distance walk. But it is more than just a footpath. It links ancient roads and forgotten shepherd ways with historical sites and rarely visited villages, and forms a gateway to an authentic side of Turkey that’s rarely seen. “

http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/europe/the-carian-trail-turkey-on-two-feet-9698085.html

http://cariantrail.com/

http://nationalparksofturkey.com/marmaris-national-park/

Coming storm

B Dock

Netsel Marina

Marmaris, Turkey

Günaydın,

    To all of our pals in the Northeast, please take care!  Stay warm and safe.  Hopefully this storm will blow out to sea and not be as bad as predicted.  Hopefully it will be a smaller storm than DeflateGate!

Ru

Taking Wyn on a food tour

B Dock

Netsel Marina

Marmaris, Turkey

Merhaba,

    A lovely sunny day today in Marmaris.  A laundry day.  With all of the rain we’ve had and the rain that is predicted for next week, every sunny day is laundry.  Last Thurday our friend Wyn came to visit. He was fascinated with my Turkish cookbook that I’d bought as an animal shelter fund raiser (plus I liked the simple watercolor illustrations) and not because I’m much of a cook.   So each lunch time we took him off to our favorite “local” eateries away from the waterfront tourist areas.  The customers were workers on their lunch hour or school kids during the lunch break.  We were pretty much the only ‘tourists.’  We went to Aciktim for wraps, but as man does not live by wraps alone, we took him to  Kardeşler Ev Yemekleri   (Brothers House of Food.)  We did splurge one night on the waterfront for grilled fish.  (He and Randal went off on a Gwen trip to camel wrestling where I assume Wyn tried everything local along the way.)

Ru

DoraMac

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A Randal special at ‘Brothers.’

A Randal special which is a little bit of everything.  It became a Wyn favorite too, especially the eggplant.  I stuck to the wraps as mid-day my stomach can’t always handle all this variety.

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The “head” brother. 

He remembered us and that Randal liked the variety plate.  The woman in the plaid shirt is his sister who has just joined them in their larger busier restaurant.  So maybe they should change the name.  We went three days in a row and sat at the same table which was the only one available; all the others were full! Our total bill for the 3 of us ranged from 18 to 21 Turkish Lira.  Divided that by $2.33 = $8.15 divided by 3 meals = $2.70.  Really good food at what seems a very low price.  No wonder they are always busy.  And the menu changes a bit each day making it interesting.

After lunch Wyn and I took a very brisk walk to Iҫmeler, about 5 miles down the coast.  We stopped for a drink and the WC before taking the dolmuṣ back to Marmaris.

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Wyn drank a beer surfed the web while I had Turkish tea and made friends with a lovely cat. 

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Looking towards the far end of Iҫmeler

Back in Marmaris this roasting machine caught Wyn’s eye so we went to have a look.  We left with two bags of freshly roasted nuts; some covered in coarse salt and some covered with sweetened sesame seeds. 

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  Denizli Dried Fruit and Nuts Shop  Denizli is a town in Turkey so maybe they have a certain flavor to their nut processing.

Another shop also caught Wyn’s eye.  Yufka is translated as ‘thin layer of dough.”  They are used for various Turkish dishes including bὄrek,  “ a family of baked filled pastries made of a thin flaky dough known as phyllo, found in the cuisines of the former Ottoman Empire.” Wikipedia

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The baker was happy to show Wyn around and pose for some photos

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Bread in various sizes, shapes, textures and tastes is available.  My favorite is still the simit!

Our waterfront dinner at Felini’s

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We were early so Wyn and I could make the 7 pm movie at Sailor’s Point.  Winter time sees most restaurants pretty empty during the week.  It drizzled on and off while we ate, but was warm enough for us to sit outside.

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Fresh grilled sea bream that attracted the cats in the vicinity.  I gave them a bit but then our waiter sent someone with “cat food” to lure them away.  Maybe he thought they were bothering me though I tried to say I didn’t mind them at all.  Maybe they get all of the leftover head, tail and bones.

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These men were having a game of backgammon.

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Wyn leaving DoraMac for his return to Wales.